[Camarojoe12]

I recently mounted a Connecticut electric manual 10 circuit 30 amp panel. I have installed a PB-30 inlet box with 4 separate stranded 10 gauge wires through 3/4 inch pvc to a 90 access pull through the wall with pvc to a female threaded adapter, to 90*FNMC-B to 3/4 liquid tight to another FNMC-B. I will attach a reference photo not the actual to get an idea. I am wondering if this will be ok or should I have done it with an lb or junction to transition from pvc to fnmc. Also the feeder to the house panel will be 1 1/4 fnmc about 10 inches away. Before I go crazy I’d like to see what others think.

 

[Camarojoe12]

Not actual photos of the install but exactly how I installed it

 

[rjniles]

Not actual photos of the install but exactly how I installed it

Wow, just wow!

 

[Camarojoe12]

Not actual photos of the install but exactly how I installed it

Wow, just wow!

Thanks for the encouraging words 🤗

 

[brric]

Without seeing exactly what you are dealing with, I probably would have used LFNMC all the way from the j-box.

 

[seharper]

Those sharp bends are made of nope.

They're only allowed right *at* an access point e.g. at the entry into a panel, where you have a chance of reaching in with a pliers and getting ahold of the end of the wire. And even then, they super suck, especially if you went and bought solid wire. Having two of them in a row? Completely unpullable. Will not happen. You will end up having to disassemble the conduit to scooch the wires through and then reassembling conduit around the wires, which is not allowed because it damages wire.

You should either be using normal bends (6-8" radius) or conduit bodies, such as what you have, or LB, LL, or LR bodies to suit.

 

[chandler48]

I agree with @brric that using one product would have been better, and leave off the hard conduit pipe and bodies. The liquid tite could have handled the bends just fine.

 

[NCmountainCabin]

a 'pre wired' liquid tight 'whip' is on the shelf at HD and LOWES for about $15, at about a 6' length... which looks like it would easily give you the run you need, without all the 'extras' you have : )

 

[Camarojoe12]

Ok, thanks for the input. I’m going to go with all liquid tight. But how do you run it through exterior wall to the box out side that is flush mounted? Do I open a big enough hole for the straight fitting to fit ? Or stub pvc with female threads?

 

[brric]

Any box large enough to accommodate a proper inlet will be large enough to cover the needed hole. Enter the pb30 from the rear.

 

[chandler48]

Is the external wall finished, or is it primarily OSB with exposed studs? If the latter, you can use a liquid tite box male adapter coming directly from the back hole in your box. https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-Liquid-Tight-Push-In-Connector-LT7-1/202284578

 

[Camarojoe12]

The exterior is cedar shingle the interior is the exterior floor joist.


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[Camarojoe12]

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[Datawise]

Notwithstanding we are not allowed to do what you are doing here in Canada, I probably would have piped the whole thing in PVC conduit and used some LB and LL fittings...

Since it is all surface mount anyway; there is no good way to make flex look good.

Cheers
John

 

[Camarojoe12]

Would this be acceptable? Or should it be flush using the back side ko? And if so do I use the same terminal adapter with lock nut and stub it through the wall? (Requiring a larger hole)


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[chandler48]

I looks fine the way it is..