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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just had a new split system (1.5 ton) system installed for my upstairs. Had to run about 80' of new copper line. The gas return is 3/4" copper rubber covered tubing.

I was very careful to minimize bends/and the use of copper 90s to keep the flow smooth and unrestricted. Despite this the installer damaged the 3/4 inch line where it came out of wall to attach to compressor/condenser.

There is a dent of 1/8" to 3'16" now in the copper line. Should I have them come back to fix this or is this a negligible thing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
pics to come....other stuff probably

installer just may not have the stuff to do it right......
 

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50 feet is the max recommended by the manufacturers. After that they expect you to increase the line size by one to 7/8". Need to check the manufacturers specs as some 1.5 ton units use 5/8 and then 3/4 over 50 feet. A kink is NOT a good idea as oil return problems are the major concern over 50 feet. Post the brand and model # and someone here may know the specs if you don't have them.
 

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I'm Your Huckleberry
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pics to come....other stuff probably

installer just may not have the stuff to do it right......
Yes he does or he wouldn't be an installer. All he is going to need is a small piece of 3/4" copper and two couplings or if there is enough bend in that line or enough room to push the unit over an inch then one coupling, plus a vaccuum pump, some hand tools for the service valves and a brazing rig and if he has a micron guage than that's a plus but nitrogen can do enough accompanied by a long ( 80' of line would be about one hour vaccum) vaccuum.

A small kink in the vapor line is not as big of a deal as a small kink in the high pressure line which is usually 3/8".
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
+

I think the unit came with a 5/8" output (gas) line (?) and was "up sized" to 3/4 because of the long run....

I will get more PICS. It is an Amana heater/evap unit. Need to check on cond/compr specs....
 

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The big line is the suction line and that kink looks bad to me. The compressor may not be able to get all its oil returned properly and fail prematurely so it needs fixing IMO.
 

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I'm Your Huckleberry
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That would not be considered a "small kink". That is pretty bad, a close to seriously disastorous malcontent of a catasrophy waiting to happen and should not have been left as such.

It looks like it went through a meat grinder.
 

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I'm Your Huckleberry
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Repairing that line so close to the house is going to take some kind of flame shield (your old condensing unit's service cover would work or any type of sheet metal) to put against the home so it doesn't burn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
sorry more complaining....

installer just may not have the stuff to do it right......

I say this because...18 years in house and I just CAN NOT DO EVERYTHING MYSELF...but 90% of the time I hire out I get crap...

again...brand new unit...added a sheet metal "supply side box" (?) and got rid of Ductboard box.....BUT

this is a 3 foot extension box with NO support.



this is the new intake side box...note how tape is already coming off!

this is a poor picture but it shows where the (I hope new3/4") suction line exits the unit...I need to open it up possibile to see that the original 5/8" fitting was replaced with a full 3/4".


...................
the drain line outside will be fixed (by me).

sorry again for whining
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK...now looks like system does not work...

I'm not @ home but just got this email from wife...unit installed +- 3 days ago and now ac company owner on vacation for 2 weeks.

"only cooled down to 78 degrees now... units been set on 74...since last time we talked (2 hours ago)..something is not rite with our brandnewenergy efficent piece of horsesssssh%% workman/womanship"

Everything appears to be "running" but will not cool much. I live in a suburb of Atlanta so it is hot.

Is there anyone in the Atlanta that can come over and help...this would be someone familiar with (my little research) manual D & S...???
 

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I'm Your Huckleberry
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manual d? D is commercial heat loss analysis/system sizing, manual J is residential. Not certain what you meant with your remark concerning manual d and s, though.

Whomever installed your system needs to be euthenized. Granted externally wrapped plenums boxes are a bit tricky to get looking perfect compared to duct board or internally insulated plenums, it is possible to get it to look ( and thus perform) up to par. Your insulation is sagging and attic air can get it through the loose tape thus warming up the air delivered through your vents. You seem to have leaks where the regular foil tape is loose and mastic was not used ( good foil GRIP MASTIC tape will work and hold) as you have said no support on that plenum (unless there is metal hanging strap from the top that I can't see) and that low side line needs to be insulated all the way to the coil or it picks up attic heat which is detrimental to performance as if liquid makes it back to the compressor than bye bye new compressor, not to mention if uninsulated beyond the pan than condensate can drip through the ceiling from that line.

WhaT A JACK ASS OF A JOB THAT WOULD MISERABLY FAIL ALL INSPECTIONS ON THE MOST ELEMENTARY OF LEVELS DOWN HERE.

I sincerely hope you get it fixed and let us know how you fair and please know that not all of us settle on poor workmanship such as you received.

Good luck and possibly find another contractor, tell them the deal and see if they can bill the other original company for repairs or maybe you can since no one will come out for two weeks. Something like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Please be patient with me....

I am going to respond to all of what is in your post...I'm 56 years old and like to work on and fix stuff. That being said, I also have a full time job and family...

This job is so typical of my life experience hiring things done...I end up fixing it myself and knowing more then the "professionals"...

The reference to the J/D manual was from an hour or so on the internet doing research...I have no knowledge/experience in residential HVAC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
more

Basically your saying, among other things, that my insulation, there are leaks in the ducts and tape joints.

-can one use this metalized tape "grip mastic" or does one need cloth tape + mastic. The metal tape I have used is excellent and has held for years.

please clarify "the low side line" needs to be insulated all the way to the coil. What is the low side line...pressure/size??? Are you you saying that the 3/8" inch (liquid??) line from the compressor needs to be insulated??

..."liquid makes it back to the compressor"...I'm confused.

Thanks
 

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Call them back to correct all that! The company doesn't close when the owner goes on vacation. See that little brass piece in the pan under the coil? Hopefully the stuck another one in because that's what meters the amount of refrigerant going through the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Eureka...moment Marty S

yea was wondering about that....
The co. owner (OMG a friend of mine) said "hold on to that you might need it".

OMG he should have known immediately what it was and that his "expert/craftsman/professionalinstallers" screwed up and left it out...

this is why my unit is not working...!

It was -+ 115 degrees in my attic but there is no excuse for this....I have spent many hours myself up there in the "oven" working....fixing their "work".
 

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Could be one in there. One comes in the coil and another comes with the condensing unit,supposed the use the one that came with the condensor. They can check when they pump the unit down to fix the kinked line.
 
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