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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
We plan to remove carpet from the living room area of the great room (kitchen, living room, dining room). We want to put in hardwood and would like some opinions on our options. The kitchen, dining room and walkway to bedroom is 3/4" x 2 1/4" T&G oak installed ≈ 15 years ago (by prev. owner).

1) Wife would like to 'blend in' the planks in the new area with the existing planks, somehow pulling up alternating existing planks ???, then re-sanding the old and new, then re-stain/ re-clearcoat. I can't imagine how this is possible with existing planks having staples well thru the 1" plywood sub floor. As the DIY guy, this scares the hell out of me! :vs_OMG:

2) I'm OK with maintaining the 'separate' living room area that the carpet now defines, but with hardwood. My strong first choice is NOT to refinish the existing floor. I'm guessing new planks might still not 'match' color wise with the old. So thoughts on either:
a) Running 2-3? darker? planks perpendicular and outlining the area (just at existing floor or encircle the entire area...by walls too)?
b) Accept a 'line' where plank ends abut and just continue from edge with new planks
c) Would you choose a different stain color or even a different wood type or even a wider plank to further differentiate the 'living room area'? Would you run planks in same direction or 90º to existing?

3) Seeing a video of installing T&G planks (with a special stapler that pounds the plank snug as it staples) 'looks' easy, but is there more than meets the eye? :vs_worry:

4) The video I saw used tar paper underlayment. Is that a good idea? My only concern is 'IF' the existing floor does not have it underneath, that would raise the floor slightly (or be lower conversely).

Thanks


 

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I am not sure I would want to tackle the blending in option as a DIY... but a pro can do it without much trouble.. or at least the one that did mine pulled it off and he was a complete hack..

If you want to purposefully made the new are a different color you should do what you can to make it appear purposeful... Do not accept a line where they meet... If you dont go with the blended option you should choose a border to separate the two floors..

All that being said... If I had the money, I would bring in a pro to match the wood and blend it in.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ryansdiydad, can you post some pics (or PM) your blended floor?

I guess it would not hurt to get a quote for a pro to 'blend' new oak with the (15 year) old planks. But is it easy for a pro to color match? I guess they'd just have to be sure to sand thru all the old clear coat to the bare wood, then it's easy to match??

How is this even done w/o breaking the planks you intend to leave and weave with the new?

I am kind of wondering if 2 1/4" wide oak planks are dated now with all new floors seeming to go with 5-6" wide planks. If so, could it be a 'feature' ;o) to add the new area in a wider plank maybe darker? maybe at 90º? to differentiate from the existing surrounding flooring. I'd really like to hear from people who have seen differing woods/styles next to each other. Or is it really a no no if it can be avoided at all?
Thanks
 

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Yup... I'll post a pic... Based on your pic blended is really the way do go.. it will open the whole space up and make it feel way big... Your other pita may be anything they did to the floor under the carpet that make the heights off.. Do you know what is under the carpet now?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Your other pita may be anything they did to the floor under the carpet that make the heights off.. Do you know what is under the carpet now?
Underneath the carpet is uncomplicated. Just the 1" plywood subfloor. Once I remove the perimeter carpet tack strips, it's a clean go.

Any thought on flooring style for the master bedroom, whose only connection is the doorway on left? My wife was thinking wider solid wood plank (than 2 1/4"). Is wider a plus (more modern?) in this situation? Or would the house look better keeping the same wood style throughout the whole upstairs (great room & Master BR)?

For the downstairs hall & two bedrooms (later), any value in sticking with 2 1/4" for whole house continuity vs solid wider planks?
 

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Half this picture is 3/4" oak hardwood from the 1990s or earlier.. the other half was installed in 2012..

I'm not a designer but I think if you have natural point that separates one room from another - like a door way or steps - then I don't think using a different floor would be bad at all.. happens all the time with bathrooms, kitchens, foyers, mud rooms, etc..

You can see in the corner of the pic we have a den let's call it that is lower than the main floor.. there we put Brazilian cherry.. intentionally making it a separate space with a different feel to it.. it originally had tile so it was different when we bought the house

So bedroom I'd say do whatever you want in there..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Half this picture is 3/4" oak hardwood from the 1990s or earlier.. the other half was installed in 2012..
ryansdiydad, Where in the picture is midpoint say of the transition? I am very curious of the process of how every other? plank is removed in existing tongue & groove 2 1/4" oak flooring where the tongue is stapled each 6" or so??

All,
Also, if I were to make a 4" to 6" darker colored border running perpendicular to existing planks, how would you:
1) secure the edges abutting the old and new flooring's flat plank ends that abut the border? Glue? Nail thru top? or both?
2) To avoid having to sand a raw new floor right to the edge of the old floor's finish, is it OK to use prefinished planks? Is it OK to put one or more coats of clear over prefinished to seal the joints? Would the prefinished planks need to be sanded before applying more clear coat?
3) Or is it easy enough to presand the border planks and carefully touch up sand right next to the existing planks?

Am I right to think it is important to run 3/4" hardwood planks perpendicular to the 24" OC engineered joists (like existing is)? Even though the subfloor is 1" plywood, the whole floor (where carpet removed) seems to flex, but the existing hardwood covered floor seems more solid.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Re: Blending planks into an existing hardwood?

OK, Wow, this actually does not look too hard to do. Is it harder for a DIY'er than this video makes it look? ;o)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
At the edge of the planks that are all cut off (no tongue or groove), should I cut/pull out all these, even the few planks that go 5-7' into the existing floor? Meaning, would a few flat butted ends be OK and not protrude up over time? Or do you just bite the bullet and remove all old 'end cut off' planks?
 
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