[wpollock]

I would like to install this switch so my daughter can automatically control her porch light either manually or with a schedule. The new switch has four wires: 1 green(ground I assume) 2 black (hot I assume) and 1 white ( neutral I assume). The existing switch has 1 bare ( ground I assume) 1 black and 1 red. There are white wires in the switch box that are capped off together with a wire nut. The new switch instructions state to install it by matching up its green ground to ground, white to white and 2 blacks to 2 blacks. Am I simply out of luck in being able to install the new smart switch like I had hoped to? Interestingly the adjoining swith(seen in the attached picture) has two black leads and a bare ground.
Thanks for any replies.

 

[jbfan]

Connect the green to green, the white to the white bundle, and the two blacks to the black and red.

Does the instructions say anything about power in and switch leg?

 

[JoeSims]

I bet that red wire is load. Black is hot going back to your breaker box.


Does it say it matters where line and load goes? Think of the red as a black wire for all intensive purposes.

You will need to unbundle the white cables tucked away in the box. Typical on off switches don’t need them. You will def need it for the new switch.

 

[wpollock]

The install videos I have seen say it doesn't matter which of the 2 black leads coming from the TP switch, labeled Live/Load, connect to the 2 black wires from the switch being replaced when there are 2 black wires.

 

[joed]

For the purpose of install, consider the red to be back and install per instructions.

 

[wpollock]

Thank you to everyone for their input.Stay safe and enjoy your Memorial Day holiday if you observe/have one.

 

[wpollock]

One final reply with questions:
1.Is the red wire on the switch I am hoping to replace simply a choice of romex the electrician chose to use or is there another more specific reason for it being there? I ask because the adjoining switch is wired with romex that has black wires for both hot and line legs.
2.Is it also simply a economical (read cost) choice that the electrician uses standard handy boxes instead of deep boxes that would provide more space for all the lugged wiring and receptacles or switches instead of what looks to me to be a crammed box?

Thanks again

 

[diyorpay]

It's actually done 1. to save a bit of money and 2. to save a bit of work.

The white neutral can be used for multiple tasks while the black wires (or a black and a red) are for separate tasks. If used in a 3 way light switch, the black and red are called travelers, both alternately being the hot wire.
Another switch example: a ceiling fan box in the center of a bedroom is common to have 3 wires, a white, a red and a black. The black/white is typically to the light switch and the red/white (same white) are for the fan. So from the 2 switches in the wall only 3 wires to the ceiling are needed. Cable is called a 14-3 or 12-3 instead of a 14-2 or 12-2. A 3 conductor wire is cheaper too.

Advice you're being given is correct.

Your second assumption also correct. Simple switch = less deep box.
If it makes you feel safer, the old switch has a blue section showing and the terminals are 'exposed'. Run electrical tape around 2 or three times to provide more insulation from other stuff in the box. If new switch has similar layout, do the same. Many come with pigtails for making the wire connections. Use proper cap and it's commonly done to wrap some electrical tape around cap a few times. Tuck any caps behind a switch that isn't as deep.