[Idek]

I need to make a 8inch hole in the exterior of my 1997 built wood-frame home to install a new kitchen exhaust duct work.
The ductwork has to run parallel to the ceiling joists until it reached the wall to exit.
Problem: There is a 2x10 installed right where the ceiling joists end on the
exterior wall.
Question: is this 2x10 load bearing? Is it a Header of some kind?
can I make a 8inch round hole into it?

 

[Chris616]

Is it a two story house and the 2X10 that you’re referring to is the one I’m pointing to with the red arrow?

Chris

 

[dj3]

When it comes to boring, the code must be followed, and you can't bore 8" through a 2x10.
Can you go through the roof? you may have to enclose it.

 

[dj3]

A question just popped in my mind.
It's a 1997 built home. How has the range been vented till now?

 

[redogsc]

If it's like my 1997 built house, it's just a recirculating setup with filters.

 

[Idek]

Is it a two story house and the 2X10 that you’re referring to is the one I’m pointing to with the red arrow?

Chris. Yes, it’s a 2 story home and YES- it’s exactly the one you’re pointing to with the red arrow.

 

[Idek]

A question just popped in my mind.
It's a 1997 built home. How has the range been vented till now?

It has a useless recirculating microwave oven.

 

[Idek]

When it comes to boring, the code must be followed, and you can't bore 8" through a 2x10.
Can you go through the roof? you may have to enclose it.

It’s a 2 story home. Can’t go through the roof.

 

[Chris616]

To run an 8” diameter duct will require at least about an 8.5” diameter hole. Since a 2X10 is only 9.5” wide, there wouldn’t be enough wood left to call it a hole. You’d pretty much just be cutting the joist. It quite possibly is not significantly load-bearing (if the upper floor wall studs align with the lower floor wall studs as in the diagram), but it certainly is structural. You would be advised not to cut it out.

So, the simple solution is just to vent out the exterior wall below the kitchen ceiling. Is there a reason that you can’t do that? The decorative vent cover that comes with the exhaust vent can still run to the ceiling to give the illusion that is where the vent goes.

Chris

 

[Idek]

To run an 8” diameter duct will require at least about an 8.5” diameter hole. Since a 2X10 is only 9.5” wide, there wouldn’t be enough wood left to call it a hole. You’d pretty much just be cutting the joist. It quite possibly is not significantly load-bearing (if the upper floor wall studs align with the lower floor wall studs as in the diagram), but it certainly is structural. You would be advised not to cut it out.

So, the simple solution is just to vent out the exterior wall below the kitchen ceiling. Is there a reason that you can’t do that? The decorative vent cover that comes with the exhaust vent can still run to the ceiling to give the illusion that is where the vent goes.

Chris: so you’re saying that 2x8 is load bearing? So I cannot essentially cut through it?
The reason I cannot vent below the ceiling joists is because the space where the exhaust duct will be running through exits at the wall just above kitchen cabinets. So I cannot re-direct the exhaust pipe down into the cabinet. Or can I? Hmmm I’ll have to check.

 

[Idek]

To run an 8” diameter duct will require at least about an 8.5” diameter hole. Since a 2X10 is only 9.5” wide, there wouldn’t be enough wood left to call it a hole. You’d pretty much just be cutting the joist. It quite possibly is not significantly load-bearing (if the upper floor wall studs align with the lower floor wall studs as in the diagram), but it certainly is structural. You would be advised not to cut it out.

So, the simple solution is just to vent out the exterior wall below the kitchen ceiling. Is there a reason that you can’t do that? The decorative vent cover that comes with the exhaust vent can still run to the ceiling to give the illusion that is where the vent goes.

Chris: so you’re saying that 2x8 is load bearing? So I cannot essentially cut through it? Based in your thumbnail the 2x10 the red arrow is pointing at is exactly what I’d be cutting through. It doesn’t look like it’s load bearing. But that’s my opinion. I need an experts advice.
The reason I cannot vent below the ceiling joists is because the space where the exhaust duct will be running through exits at the wall just above kitchen cabinets. So I cannot re-direct the exhaust pipe down into the cabinet. Or can I? Hmmm I’ll have to check.

 

[Chris616]

Ah…sorry, I forgot the part where you implied that the exhaust fan is not mounted on an exterior wall.

Chris

You’re having some issues with quoting other posts. The quotation needs to start with “Squarebracket”QUOTE=Chris616;6197115”Squarebracket” and end with “Squarebracket”/QUOTE”Squarebracket”.

 

[huesmann]

Is there a reason you want to go 8"? Is your range hood going to blow over 900 cfm?

 

[Idek]

Is there a reason you want to go 8"? Is your range hood going to blow over 900 cfm?

Yes it’s 950cfm

 

[Chris616]

Have you considered:

• Repositioning the stove/cooktop to an exterior wall?
• Building a soffit to “box in” duct that runs just under the ceiling on its way to the exterior wall?
• Running the duct downwards from the fan then to the exterior wall under the floor of the kitchen? There are challenges with doing this, but it is worth considering.

Chris

 

[Bud9051]

Are you providing an approved make-up air system?

"In the US, the construction industry has long recognized the need for adequate makeup air for exhaust systems. Beginning in 2009 and in every version since, the International Residential Code (IRC) has required that makeup air be provided for kitchen hood exhaust systems with capacity of 400 cfm or greater."

https://www.fantech.net/fileadmin/u..._Center_USA_Files/e1574-makeup-air-system.pdf

Fan mfgs have been conveniently understating this requirement. Even if you currently have no combustion appliances the make-up air system should be in place to be safe for any future appliance changes.

Opening a window is a dumb suggestion, sorry but it is dumb.

Bud

 

[huesmann]

OP, why don't you check with your local building department and ask if you can drill a hole in your rim joist? I don't think you'll have any luck getting a hole for an 8" duct in a 2x10, but you could fab up a manifold and run a double 6" easily (if you wanted to go that route).

 

[Idek]

Unfortunately moving the stove to an outside wall is not workable as I would have to remodel the entire kitchen and I’m trying to avoid that.

So....My question is-is this “rim post” or “header” or whatever it’s called a load bearing structure. It doesn’t look like it but I’m bot an expert. Would cutting out an 8” section compromise the integrity of the home? I guess I’ll have to ask a contractor to be sure.

 

[huesmann]

Is there a floor above the rim joist? If so, do you know how it's framed?