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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We hung a suspended chair from our attic truss, and are wondering if that was wise.



We drilled 3/16 pilot holes and used (2) 1/4 lag screws to hold a D-ring and plate vertically, against the indoor ceiling, so the weight of the swing is held by the integrity of the lag screws thread's hold in the wood.


We reinforced the actual bottom cord of the truss with 2x4's running from the bottom cord to the angled rafter, enlisting the entire web of the truss in supporting the weight of the swing and a 225 lb man.


We're worried about the fact that the chair can swing and swivel, and wonders if the lags will eventually unseat themselves (they have a 1/8 deep thread).


What do you think? Take it down and use something like a LedgerLOK with deeper thread, or will the lags work fine?


Thanks!
 

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retired framer
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Trusses are very strong but only for what they are designed for.

That metal piece I have circled is holding all those 2x4s together, as you rock that back and forth you could end up with that 2x4 in the room with you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Trusses are very strong but only for what they are designed for.

That metal piece I have circled is holding all those 2x4s together, as you rock that back and forth you could end up with that 2x4 in the room with you.



Thanks, that's a good point. I did install two vertical 2x4's (see picture below) to help spread the weight to the rafters, enlisting the entire web in support.



Do you have any insight into the integrity of the lags themselves as far as pulling them out of their threads?
 

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retired framer
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Thanks, that's a good point. I did install two vertical 2x4's (see picture below) to help spread the weight to the rafters, enlisting the entire web in support.



Do you have any insight into the integrity of the lags themselves as far as pulling them out of their threads?
I would find a 2 ft piece of 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 post and cut that to fit between two trusses.
Above that a 7 ft 2x4 nailed to that block and 4 trusses.

Then an angle 2x4 from low to high across the 4 uprights in the trusses.

Drill thru the 2x4 and block and get a real eye bolt install that with a washer on top with 2 nuts locked together so they can't loosen.

And add those upright on the other truss like you did to that one,
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I would find a 2 ft piece of 3 1/2 x 3 1/2 post and cut that to fit between two trusses.
Above that a 7 ft 2x4 nailed to that block and 4 trusses.

Then an angle 2x4 from low to high across the 4 uprights in the trusses.

Drill thru the 2x4 and block and get a real eye bolt install that with a washer on top with 2 nuts locked together so they can't loosen.

And add those upright on the other truss like you did to that one,

That's a great idea. Your illustration is helpful. I don't understand the yellow piece, however. That's an angled 2x4?
 

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retired framer
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That's a great idea. Your illustration is helpful. I don't understand the yellow piece, however. That's an angled 2x4?
As you are now attach it to four trusses that will not stop them from working back and forth stressing your drywall screws, make it a triangle fixes that.

The roof sheeting is holding the trusses in place so angle from near the top down to the bottom will lock everything stiff.



There is an upright in the center of the trusses just add the angle to that and nail them all.
 

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I would not use 1/4" lags for anything; if you look at the minor diameter of a 1/4" lag, it's around 1/8". They are unlikely to pull out, but much more likely to just snap off especially if they are common mild steel, essentially Grade 1.

If you must use 1/4", use Stainless which are generally Grade 6, or some of the premium structural lag screws that home centers have. Spax is one brand, there are a few others now.
 

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retired framer
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Why do you need the angled piece if your 7' 2x4 is nailed to the top of the bottom chord?
So those 4 trusses don't work against the action of the swing. Any movement will effect the drywall screws and the joiner plates in the center of the trusses.
 
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