[stonhenge]

Hi, I think this is the right forum for this question...

I have an existing alcove that is 50.25" wide, 26" deep, floor to ceiling (around 8').

On the other side of the alcove is the wall of a bedroom closet. I've estimated that the wall thickness between the alcove and closet is 6"

I want to put my existing full size refrigerator into this alcove. But I would like to set it back an additional 4" so that it does not stick out so far (into a main traffic path). I would need at least a 1" space in the back for venting and I believe I can put the electrical outlet in a cabinet nearby.

I don't think this is a load bearing wall but I will need to double check that.

I am assuming that it will be cheaper to make the alcove deeper than buying a new counter depth fridge.

Is there a way to make this alcove 31" deep? If so, how can this be done in a way that is to code. I am in California.

Thanks for the help.

 

[MI-Roger]

I don't know California building codes so take my comments cautiously.

You can gain 2 inches by re-framing the dividing wall with the studs set sideways, using the 1-1/2 inch thickness rather than the 3-1/2 inch thickness. Assuming they are current 2x4 stud sizes. This would require shallow depth electrical boxes, and possibly wider boxes to allow wire bending space, if there are any electrical boxes in this wall. Also be alert for any HVAC ductwork or plumbing in this wall. Either one can eliminate the option of thinning the dividing wall.

Gaining more than 2 inches will require moving the dividing wall, thus reducing the depth of your closet. If you have a large closet this reduced depth can be tolerated by installing built-ins for accessories rather than a clothes bar. If you have a small closet then the reduced depth will eliminate being able to hang clothes in the conventional manner and might make the closet unusable.

 

[Mingledtrash]

Before anyone can really give you recommendations you need to find out if the wall is bearing otherwise we are all wasting our time.
until then the only option is to fur out the front wall. Also if you can provide pictures it helps us help you.

 

[joed]

A 6" thick wall could also be a wet wall. It may have drain pipes in it or HVAC venting.

 

[stonhenge]

Thanks for the replies.

Is there an easy way to tell if a wall is load bearing? I don't thin k it is but need to understand the best way to verify that.

Here are some pictures. As you will see the alcove has cabinets now but those will be coming out.

I've also taken pictures of the closet on the other side. The alcove shares a wall with the side of the closet, not the back.

And yes I know that the alcove and closet are a mess. ; )

 

[joed]

Do you know which way the joists above the alcove run. If they cross over that wall it could be load bearing. If they run parallel to the wall then they probably are not load bearing.

 

[stonhenge]

I'm not sure there are joists above the wall as I have a flat roof without an attic.

 

[joed]

There has to be something holding up the roof, ceiling joists or rafters.

 

[stonhenge]

I will probably need to open up the ceiling to check.

 

[joed]

Do you have access to below? If the floor joists run parallel to the wall then likely it's not load bearing unless the wall is directly over a support beam.

 

[stonhenge]

The floor joists do run parallel with the wall. And no it is not directly over a support beam. So it sounds as if I should be okay.

Given this, what are my options based on my original question?