[VMat]

Hello,


My first post here, I hope I don't look too stupid... I have a TV on the wall, and a surge protector near the floor, and I'd like to hide the wires (common problem, I guess).


I know I can't run the actual power cord inside the wall. I've been searching around and found these kits with an inlet and an outlet, and I thought they would save my day. But they are expensive as hell and I'm not a big fan of a NEMA 5-15P on my wall, even being recessed - although I could live with it if it were less expensive.



My next plan is to build my own "kit" using an IEC 320 male (receptacle) instead, that I can connect to the surge protector using a standard computer power cord. So two boxes, one IEC 320 on one side, one common outlet on the other side, romex connecting both. I would have to buy a blind plate and cut an opening for the IEC 320. Does that sound like a good plan? Is there anything against code in that? It would be a lot cheaper, and I already have most materials around. Just need to buy the rework-type boxes.



Thanks in advance,


VMat

 

[betelgeuse]

400.12 Uses Not Permitted. Unless specifically permitted in
400.10, flexible cables, flexible cord sets, and power supply
cords shall not be used for the following:
(1) As a substitute for the fixed wiring of a structure
(2) Where run through holes in walls, structural ceilings,
suspended ceilings, dropped ceilings, or floors
lain:

 

[rjniles]

As long as the inlet and outlet are mounted in device boxes with Romex connecting the 2, I don't see an issue.

 

[VMat]

400.12 Uses Not Permitted. Unless specifically permitted in
400.10, flexible cables, flexible cord sets, and power supply
cords shall not be used for the following:
(1) As a substitute for the fixed wiring of a structure
(2) Where run through holes in walls, structural ceilings,
suspended ceilings, dropped ceilings, or floors
lain:

Hi betelgeuse,

Sorry, I'm not sure I'm following, could you please elaborate? I would have a box with a plate and a receptacle on each end, is that equivalent to a hole in the wall?

How about the kits, are they illegal then? I'm talking about these (the power side): ops... can't post links yet, please search for B07WHDNPKV in Amazon, if you don't mind.

Thanks,

VMat

 

[VMat]

As long as the inlet and outlet are mounted in device boxes with Romex connecting the 2, I don't see an issue.

Hi rjniles,

Yes, that's the idea. One device box on each end. One receptacle in each box. Romex inside the wall, connecting the receptacles. Power cords only on the outside.

Thanks,

VMat

 

[Jim Port]

check these out. There is also a shallow wall version.

http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/home-theater-audio-video/tv-bridge-ii-kits/

 

[surferdude2]

The gal doing the installation video fishes the power cord down inside the wall bay so someone needs to tell her and her boss how that isn't code. :biggrin2:

Power in wall


Now if you're not going to do it that way, then more power to you (pun intended) so long as you run NM from box to box. I don't see much difference there than just extending an existing receptacle upward and even laterally with a little expertise.

 

[betelgeuse]

I misread your post....didn't notice the romex between the 2 boxes part, and thought you were going to use cord all the way.

 

[ktkelly]

https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-50-3323-WH-KIT-Panel-Organizer-Solution/dp/B001PB7UVA




This is what you need, but it will not meet code in SOME areas.

 

[surferdude2]

If it has a recognized testing lab approval it'll work anywhere. I don't see that mentioned in the info. Looks great though... I'd use it with no worry since it does claim to have electric building wire, hopefully that means approved NM cable.

 

[VMat]

I don't see much difference there than just extending an existing receptacle upward and even laterally with a little expertise.

The problem is the surge protector... :001_unsure:

 

[VMat]

I misread your post....didn't notice the romex between the 2 boxes part, and thought you were going to use cord all the way.

Oh, I see. Makes sense now.

 

[VMat]

https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-50-3323-WH-KIT-Panel-Organizer-Solution/dp/B001PB7UVA




This is what you need, but it will not meet code in SOME areas.

Thanks for the link. Still expensive, though... If I do it with the IEC 320 as I described, since I only need a couple of boxes and a blind plate now, I would spend something around $15. I'll try to search for that model # in the local supplies stores, maybe I can get it cheaper.


Thanks, everyone!


VMat

 

[Mystriss]

If you have any skill at all with 120v (home electrical) just run a romex up the wall from your original outlet - add a new outlet behind the TV. Presuming you're talking drywall here, it's super easy and quick to do and gives you 100 times better result than those in-wall extension cord things.

Cut out your top box and you should be able to shove 12/2 romex up through the opening in the bottom box to the upper box without problem.

If you've got an AVR, DVD/BluRay/Ultra4k that you're planning to leave "at the floor level" there - it gets even easier cause you'll cut out for 2 two gang boxes and have zero problems getting the romex & cables up to the higher box then you add in a HDMI [and TosLink or RCA if you have older component audio) keystone couplers ( https://www.amazon.com/VCE-Keystone...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== AND https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Q-WP...ds=keystone+decora&qid=1593055884&sr=8-3&th=1) then snake typical CL2/3 (in-wall rated) cables for your components up. Zero visible cables and everything's buttoned up and looking slick. See this outlet with two 8K HDMI and TosLink I put in my office.

Also, there's surge protector outlets now, they look very much like a regular outlet, but have surge protection on them - https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5280...=surge+protector+outlet&qid=1593054685&sr=8-7 They protect everything "down line" from the installation point - so if you installed it on the existing bottom outlet, it'd protect your TV. Down side, if there's a major surge event that'd blow a surge protector, you have to pull out the entire outlet and replace it - they run like $40 each. Despite that I do prefer it personally. I prefer Leviton or Lutron brand, I don't mess around with off brands for in-wall surge protectors.

Other option is to have a surge protector up behind the TV for sound bars, streaming servers, etc. If you'd rather have a "traditional" surge, I'd have a look at Tripp Lite's Isobar direct plug surge protectors - https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-P...words=tripp+lite+isobar&qid=1593054623&sr=8-4

Also, if it's an exterior wall with insulation then you'd want to get some rod style fish tape (sorry I can't recommend one cause the one I got was junk - though it got the job done.)

If you have lathe and plaster... I'd get a cord track and paint it to match your walls :vs_laugh:

 

[HotRodx10]

You could just wire an outlet in behind the TV and plug in a single outlet or multiple outlet surge protector for around 10 bucks.

 

[Mystriss]

You could just wire an outlet in behind the TV and plug in a single outlet or multiple outlet surge protector for around 10 bucks.

PFFT that's far too easy for a DIY site :vs_smirk:

 

[VMat]

Also, there's surge protector outlets now, they look very much like a regular outlet, but have surge protection on them - https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5280...=surge+protector+outlet&qid=1593054685&sr=8-7 They protect everything "down line" from the installation point - so if you installed it on the existing bottom outlet, it'd protect your TV. Down side, if there's a major surge event that'd blow a surge protector, you have to pull out the entire outlet and replace it - they run like $40 each. Despite that I do prefer it personally. I prefer Leviton or Lutron brand, I don't mess around with off brands for in-wall surge protectors.

I'll look into those too, thanks.

I actually lied, though. Well, not lied, but omitted something I thought would be irrelevant: I also have a relay box that cuts the power to all the equipment. So I do need the inlet/outlet scheme. You got me.

And I agree with you, I'd rather pay the extra $ for a reputable brand.

Thanks,

VMat

 

[Mystriss]

I'll look into those too, thanks.

I actually lied, though. Well, not lied, but omitted something I thought would be irrelevant: I also have a relay box that cuts the power to all the equipment. So I do need the inlet/outlet scheme. You got me.

And I agree with you, I'd rather pay the extra $ for a reputable brand.

Thanks,

VMat

Like a 12v trigger box? Or a hack/tinkerer kinda relay?

I mean you can wire up all kinda stuff in-wall with keystones and a little maker hack'ing

I also did this in my office:

Oh and this too:

 

[VMat]

Like a 12v trigger box? Or a hack/tinkerer kinda relay?

I mean you can wire up all kinda stuff in-wall with keystones and a little maker hack'ing

I also did this in my office:

View attachment 604271

Oh and this too:

View attachment 604273

It's a DIY box with 120V relays. Both the input and the output are 120V, Keystone ports won't help. But thanks again for the suggestions!

VMat

 

[MrDoc]

Not sure if it's too late but I will share my 2 cents:
I recently wall-mounted a TV with a soundbar. I looked at lots of options. I finally figured that LeGrande kit was the way to go. I found it on eBay for ~40bucks. The setup was very easy.