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Discussion Starter #1
I don't have any files.
But was wondering if my router didn't make perfect fitting joints, would a file be able to shave down a tongue running it perpendicular to the grain?

or would it shred it up?

I'm talking about softer woods like fir.
 

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I don't have any files.
But was wondering if my router didn't make perfect fitting joints, would a file be able to shave down a tongue running it perpendicular to the grain?

or would it shred it up?

I'm talking about softer woods like fir.
A file would be a disaster.

Glue a strip of 80 grit to a piece of wood the size you like making the edge of the wood a safe edge ( no paper there ) and sand with the grain. For your perfect fit, half the amount to be removed will need to be taken from each side.

I hope you only have a few inches to correct rather than several feet.
 

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Many tongue and groove sets come with thin brass shims (looks like a washer) that allow you to adjust the tongue cutter to match the groove---

what set are you using? Or are you trying to match up store bought tongue and groove?
 

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Since the router follows the surface, home made setup would give you fittings that are less than perfect. I guess your plan was to sand the finished surface? The stock should have been planed and jointed.
What are you making? Problem is that once you start adjusting the fit for each piece, you are likely to create loose fitting surface that will never stay flat unless they are face nailed.
 

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What are you making tongue and groove joints for? Boards for a floor / wall and inset panel?

Are you using a hand held router or table mounted router?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm using a home made router table.

I'm going to make some shaker doors, but the problem is that the plywood panel is 5mm, and my slot cutters only do 1/8" and 1/4". So I have to do one cut, flip it, cut in other direction so the groove is exactly 5mm.

So I have to eyeball the cuts, and I may come out with ill fitting joints.

The tongues will only be 5/8" long
 

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Hey...
What's up with the lesbian zipcar ad to the right....?
HUH :eek: I don't see anything and really hope that isn't what you are seeing either.
 

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Instead of flipping the rail / style work with the face down only. Raise or lower your bit to get your fit. You want the panel to float and not too tight.
 

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A nice wide and deadly sharp wood chisel is what you want. If you want to buy a specialized tool for it, look at rabbet planes.
 

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I am guessing that the OPS is using a panel cutting bit that makes the groove and the profile simultaneously. I have a Freud set for making frame and panel doors with an adjustable groove cutter, perhaps the OPS has an adjustable set also. Alternatively, my set allows me to remove the slot cutter from the bit, and cut the profile separately. I could then cut the slot separately using either a 5mm slot cutting bit or using a 1/8 inch bit, and raising the bit for the second pass.

The 1/4 inch slot option mentioned by the OPS would be about 1mm too thick, but if you use space balls (rubber balls that fit in the slot) you could probably get away with the oversized slot. Another option is to use the 1/8 slot, and rout the edge (typically last 3/8 inch or so) of the plywood down to proper thickness.
 

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Yes, the one on the far left. Those look horribly expensive, you should be able to find one more reasonable at real woodworking stores you have in your area.
 

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