[twinglesin2001]

My ice maker recently started making hollow ice. Then it quit making ice at all.

Here are some things I tried:

* I replaced the filter. No ice.

*Pulled the arm up & cut it off. Several hours later I put the arm down and it made one batch of ice.

*I have melted the clog that was in the pipe, unplugged the unit for one minute and added water to the tray(per whirlpool tech)

*also did a varity of tests with a jump wire. The ice maker will cycle through only the water will not fill up. When I installed the jump wire to test, water ran through fine.

Any suggestions?

 

[hardwareman]

My ice maker recently started making hollow ice. Then it quit making ice at all.

Here are some things I tried:


*also did a varity of tests with a jump wire.

Any suggestions?

like what? there is only 1 test you can perform with a jumper wire. the only thing you should be using a jumper on is t&h, otherwise you could damage the module.
that being said, hollow cubes are caused by too little water entering the mold. I usually find this problem when the icemaker is hooked up with a self piercing shut off valve.

 

[user1007]

There is probably a little tiny piece of particulate or something somewhere you are just not able to see. Or air is somehow trapped in the line. No chance of a hidden kink right? See if you can bleed the lines or replace them I guess. As hinted, you might replace that self-tapping valve but if it all was working before? Unless it got corroded it should still be working.
​

 

[twinglesin2001]

The test I performed with the jump wire was ...

If there is no ice in the mold take that jumper wire and place one end in the hole marked V and the other end in the hole marked L just long enough to see if water enters the icemaker then remove it. This should power up the water valve and water should enter the icemaker.

I did this and the water did come in quite fast.



If when you do this water does enter the icemaker take that jumper wire and place one end in the hole marked T and the other in the hole marked H for about 15 seconds. When you do this, the icemaker should go through the cycle, the feeler arm should lift up and the water should enter the icemaker.

The ice maker went through all of the steps, except the water never came.


I tried ajusting the water level by turning the adjuster 1/4 inch. Sometimes water is in the tray ( I have watched but never see or hear it run in) and there are small cunes ion the bottom but they never dump. The icemaker will make a batch of ice perfectly about twice a day.

How do I know if my ice maker has a self piercing shut off valve? How would I check it to see if this is the problem?

Thanks for your help!

 

[twinglesin2001]

There is probably a little tiny piece of particulate or something somewhere you are just not able to see. Or air is somehow trapped in the line. No chance of a hidden kink right? See if you can bleed the lines or replace them I guess. As hinted, you might replace that self-tapping valve but if it all was working before? Unless it got corroded it should still be working.​

I have taken the blow dryer several times and heated the tube where the water comes in and the tray itself incase something was blocking it. I am not sure about the kink. I don't know where the water line runs to check it. How would I bleed the lines? The water in the door comes out fine. I don't know how the self-tapping valve could have corroded. Do you know where it is located so I can examine it? Thank you for your help! I feel like it is somethign simple.

 

[Jacques]

If water at door is good, that means your supply and filter are ok. if you get water by V-L means valve ok. if makes cubes sporadiclly and frz temps are ok=bad i/m.

 

[rileypark]

where are these jumper wire holes marked t, l, v , h? I can't find them.