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Discussion Starter #1
I'm installing new fridge- Instructions say not to use those small "self-piercing" tap in's- Is there a reason why? How do I tap into the line then?
 

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JOATMON
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You tap into the line like most people do....with one of those kits they say don't use.

I used one....no issues.....in about 6 months I will be moving the fridge and when I do I'll be providing a real valve for it....

Those piercing valves can leak......so I assume that it's the 'safe' postion that the manfg is taking.
 

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On mine, after the stop valve, a T was put in the 3/8" line to the hot water side of the sink. The supply line to the ice maker comes off of the T with copper tubing and quickly transitions to 1/4" via a brass reducing compression coupling. Right or wrong it works and has for 30 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks- I will replace it (not a fan.)- The cold water supply runs directly behind where the fridge is in the basement- Is there a way to install this angle valve directly into the cold water line? (I realize I will have to shut the water off)- but it's easier to tap in there (and closer) then to try to connect it to where the kitchen sink is
 

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Thanks- I will replace it (not a fan.)- The cold water supply runs directly behind where the fridge is in the basement- Is there a way to install this angle valve directly into the cold water line? (I realize I will have to shut the water off)- but it's easier to tap in there (and closer) then to try to connect it to where the kitchen sink is
Would this work? Get yourself a gate valve with compression fittings and an integrated drain. Cut the pipe behind the fridge (removing a short section) and install the gate valve to bridge the gap. Remove the drain cap and install an adapter fitting to go from the drain to whatever your icemaker needs.
 

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