[RightOverYonders]

Hi,

Have a few posts about my roof situation but my question now is related to heating cables and how to effectively use them. My goal is to keep the gutters clear of ice in one specific problematic low sloped area.

Here are the wires I purchased: HEATIT JHSF1 Self Regulating Pre-Assembled Heating Cable – HEATIT
Here is how they are installed:

http://imgur.com/a/jZzvVKA

My issue seems be that these are creating more igloo like setups then actually keeping the gutters clear. The gutter remains full of ice and the roof area is melted but as mentioned with a more igloo type clearance around the snow. The roof does have channels for the water to go but I really want my gutters clear.
We are in Montreal Canada - and the snow comes fast and sporadically.
I have a few questions regarding their use:

1. What temperature is too cold or too hot to use these?
2. Should I use these when the snow has already fell? Does turning them on before the snowfall make that much of a difference in heavy snow storms?
3. Can the cables touch? My plan was to add more cables overlapping each other in the specific difficult gutter area.
4. How am I supposed to use these efficiently? Like right before the snow falls
5. Is it normal that behind the heat wires there’s some ice buildup from the melted snow? I'm hoping they aren't doing more harm then good.

I've reviewed the problematic area in question in terms of venting/insulation - and there is no leaks this year, but the gutters are still full of ice - most likely due to the low sloped and poorly developed drainage area. I really want a method to clear the gutters that avoids me climbing up about 30ft+ and putting salt socks etc. The roof rake I purchased can't even reach the top of the roof.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[SW Dweller]

I am no expert in heat tape for gutters. I installed ONE set for a school building.
The instructions told me to fasten the heat cable to the gutter, ever 6". I chose the back near the bottom. I was never called back. I assume it worked.
In case you lost the directions. Your install looks nothing like the pictures

 

[joed]

Did you also run the cable down and out the downspout so the water can drain away?

 

[Nealtw]

No experts but I see some problems with that set up.
You have heat in the gutter so you can have stream of water in the gutter, but it is not level, if it can drift up and down you can create ice dams below it.
The heat tape on the roof wants to go down to where that stream of water.
Are you allowed to tape that cable in place?
If yes, then I would use aluminum tape tape it is a straight line or sloped to the drain.
This guy has the cable in the gutter at the bottom of the gutter.
How To Install Heat Tape For Eaves Gutters Ice And Snow - YouTube

 

[ll_moto_ll]

Recommend you go another direction with this issue your having.
Replace the low sloped roof with flat roof assembly (Black EPDM fully adhered - for your region, not the all popular white TPO) with a compression seal into the gutter. Then you can eliminate the electric cables and let mother nature do her best.

 

[carpdad]

What is compression seal into gutter? Search words also good. Searched but no luck. Thank you.

 

[lenaitch]

I am no expert in heat tape for gutters. I installed ONE set for a school building.
The instructions told me to fasten the heat cable to the gutter, ever 6". I chose the back near the bottom. I was never called back. I assume it worked.
In case you lost the directions. Your install looks nothing like the pictures

Agree. The OP should check out Fig 5 on P. 9 of your attachment. The heat cable needs to make a channel in the gutter that is low and halfways straight (along with a run down the downspout). I don't use them anymore but, installed properly, they work as intended to prevent ice damming.

 

[RightOverYonders]

i

I am no expert in heat tape for gutters. I installed ONE set for a school building.
The instructions told me to fasten the heat cable to the gutter, ever 6". I chose the back near the bottom. I was never called back. I assume it worked.
In case you lost the directions. Your install looks nothing like the pictures

Thank you for this - so essentially I don't think I fasten the cables enough in the gutters... strange thing I didn't see any method to attach the cables inside the gutters. I just had the clips for the roof. I will review the instructions you provided

 

[RightOverYonders]

Did you also run the cable down and out the downspout so the water can drain away?

Yes the cable runs all the way to the downspout

 

[RightOverYonders]

No experts but I see some problems with that set up.
You have heat in the gutter so you can have stream of water in the gutter, but it is not level, if it can drift up and down you can create ice dams below it.
The heat tape on the roof wants to go down to where that stream of water.
Are you allowed to tape that cable in place?
If yes, then I would use aluminum tape tape it is a straight line or sloped to the drain.
This guy has the cable in the gutter at the bottom of the gutter.
How To Install Heat Tape For Eaves Gutters Ice And Snow - YouTube

Thanks for this - I tried to call a local company to install the heat tape but they were booked solid then shutdown I believe. I was thinking that the cables should probably be at the bottom of the gutter after seeing some other installs.

Is your suggestion to use aluminum tape in the gutters? or on the roof itself. I believe I can put tape in the gutters but slightly worried about the roof in terms of keeping my warranty etc.

 

[RightOverYonders]

Recommend you go another direction with this issue your having.
Replace the low sloped roof with flat roof assembly (Black EPDM fully adhered - for your region, not the all popular white TPO) with a compression seal into the gutter. Then you can eliminate the electric cables and let mother nature do her best.

I actually think I have this - after numerous leaks we argued with the roof installers and they installed Elastomeric Membrane (Elastomeric membrane roof | Toitures PME) in the section that was low sloped. They installed it with a blow torch.

Is this what you mean by compression seal into the gutter?

I just added the electric cables as a failsafe - do you think they are not neccessary?

 

[joed]

Yes the cable runs all the way to the downspout

Not just 'to' the downspout. It needs to go down the downspout.

 

[Nealtw]

Thanks for this - I tried to call a local company to install the heat tape but they were booked solid then shutdown I believe. I was thinking that the cables should probably be at the bottom of the gutter after seeing some other installs.

Is your suggestion to use aluminum tape in the gutters? or on the roof itself. I believe I can put tape in the gutters but slightly worried about the roof in terms of keeping my warranty etc.

It will stick to clean gutter but not on the roof.

 

[RightOverYonders]

Not just 'to' the downspout. It needs to go down the downspout.

Exactly, it goes down the downspout - I had to purchase a new one after breaking the old one lol

 

[RightOverYonders]

It will stick to clean gutter but not on the roof.

And the wire being at the bottom of the gutter will make a significant difference for the clearing?
Any fire risk with the aluminum tape.

 

[Nealtw]

And the wire being at the bottom of the gutter will make a significant difference for the clearing?
Any fire risk with the aluminum tape.

Pictures show the cable sitting in the gutter where with some movement the cable could get rubbed on sharp edges.
Taping in place to stop any movement seems safer to me.

 

[lenaitch]

I'm not getting the role of aluminum tape. it's not like the cable is exposed to a whole lot of movement.
You're profile shows Canada; I thought standard installation up here included ice-water barrier (well, maybe except for Neal out in Lotusland).

I don't know for certain but I have heard that if you try to make a warrantee claim for the shingles, if they learn you used heat cable they will walk away.

 

[Nealtw]

I'm not getting the role of aluminum tape. it's not like the cable is exposed to a whole lot of movement.
You're profile shows Canada; I thought standard installation up here included ice-water barrier (well, maybe except for Neal out in Lotusland).

I don't know for certain but I have heard that if you try to make a warrantee claim for the shingles, if they learn you used heat cable they will walk away.

With proper insulation and venting, there is little need for ice and water. I haven't paid attention so i don't know what they are doing now.

 

[ll_moto_ll]

What is compression seal into gutter? Search words also good. Searched but no luck. Thank you.

 

[ll_moto_ll]

I actually think I have this - after numerous leaks we argued with the roof installers and they installed Elastomeric Membrane (Elastomeric membrane roof | Toitures PME) in the section that was low sloped. They installed it with a blow torch.

Is this what you mean by compression seal into the gutter?

I just added the electric cables as a failsafe - do you think they are not neccessary?

Trying to provide best answer possible with the limited information at hand. there are several different ways to accomplish what you need here. You have have better success with a flat roofer than a residential roofer.
Your home has low sloped portions of roofing, that required flat roof assemblies. Selecting the right assembly in the low sloped area will prevent any water intrusion. Regardless of weather conditions. Typically melting cables are only used to reduce snow weight load on flat roofs or in gutter assemblies or to prevent snow load completely along roof edges. If you are trying to use heat cables to prevent leaks, that is a red flag to a roofer that something is wrong with the roof assembly.
Seeing a flat roof membrane on a house is not visually appealing to most people. There are several, extremely good products out, that are designed to be underlayment for shingle roofs in low sloped conditions. However they will not have the same long standing service life of flat roof assemblies. Key for use of underlayment in this Scenario, having underlayment bond directly to gutter back flange, not behind gutter to fascia.