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· Endless Projects
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a number of lofts in my home, to which I have been adding an alder board to finish the edge. I am stuck on the last one which has an outside corner. I have cut the shorter board and before cutting it to final length, I put it up and struck a line where it hits the other wall.

Based on this photo should i miter this as well as bevel this cut to get a nice 90 degree corner?

Should I do this with both boards in place before nailing the first one up?

I was thinking of getting a scrap piece to get the bevel just right before cutting the last board to fit.

Any hints to get this corner to finish nicely would be appreciated.
 

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· Endless Projects
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So if you climb up a little higher and look down at that crack, is it a taper right to the other side?
I am not sure what you are asking but I think there is a taper to the long wall of the loft. If you look at the top picture I did what I was doing in the photo of me on the ladder. I held the board into place and struck a line on the back of the trim board where the wall met the board. What I thought was going to be a straight line looks not square to the board.
 

· Endless Projects
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
After I struck the first line it did not look square to me. I went back and erased it and tried to get a more definitive line. To me it still does not look square to me but putting a square on it, it is pretty close. Much closer than my eyes were telling me.

I think I just go and cut it to length and then adjust on the second cut to get the best fit I can.
 

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· retired framer
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I am not sure what you are asking but I think there is a taper to the long wall of the loft. If you look at the top picture I did what I was doing in the photo of me on the ladder. I held the board into place and struck a line on the back of the trim board where the wall met the board. What I thought was going to be a straight line looks not square to the board.
So the problem is the shape of the drywall below.

Now you have to figger out the best way to make both pieces stand plumb where they meet so you can get a good some close to a 90* corner.
The other board my have the same problem
1. add a taper to the edge of the floor so it is plumb with the drywall at the bottom of the trim.

2, Trim the back of the trim at the top on a taper so it looks good from below

3. cut some drywall away behind the trim and shim the trim out until it is plumb.
 

· retired framer
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After I struck the first line it did not look square to me. I went back and erased it and tried to get a more definitive line. To me it still does not look square to me but putting a square on it, it is pretty close. Much closer than my eyes were telling me.

I think I just go and cut it to length and then adjust on the second cut to get the best fit I can.
Or you could modify the trim so it sits over the floor and hides the crack.
 

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· Registered
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Measure from the wall to the corner, this will be your inside measurement for outside corners.

For inside corners
Measure from the wall to the corner this will be your outside measurement.

Place the trim in the miter box.
For inside measurements : The miter cut will be extended past the line of measurement.

For outside measurements: The miter cut will be reduced from the line of measurement.

Take a piece of scrap and hold it in place and draw your cut line, do both sides.
Make your miter cuts and hold the two pieces in place and make any adjustments more or less to get the desired miter. Take that degree and make your finished pieces.

 

· Naildriver
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Remember, too any change in angle on one board will result in the necessity of having the same angle on the adjacent one, or one will be longer than the other. I would cut appropriate angles (square) so it fits, and deal with the wall being out using caulk. If you change the attack on the angle the next board will multiply that angle difference and either go up or down and not meet well at the corner.
 
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