[shelzmike]

Ok, so I need to repair some spots on my ceiling that are currently stippled with plaster. I cannot use drywall mud, even setting type, because I have ceiling heat that still works very well, and despite the counter intuitiveness of it, is actually efficient.

It is electric resistance, not hydronic.

We actually really like the stipple on the ceiling and it appears it was rolled on as opposed to stomped as it is very random ridges all over.

You can tell over the years that someone has tried to repair places with drywall mud and, maybe you have guess by now, it just falls off in pieces.

My problem is that I haven't really ever worked with plaster and cannot for the life of me figure out WHICH type of plaster to use. Plaster of Paris, Veneer, or something else completely.

I will use BIN Shellac primer to help the bond to the brown coat from the 50s.

I had thought I figured it out and settle on X-Kaliber Veneer plaster but reading the directions, it appears that it is supposed to go over Kal-Kote plaster base. Is this just marketing and doesn't mean it'll ONLY go over Kal-Kote?

What type should I use or does it really matter, just setting times are different. I'd be working in quite small areas at a time so it shouldn't be too much of an issue.

Finally, what is the deal with painting times? I have read anywhere from 3 days to like 6 months to allow the plaster to dry fully.

 

[ClarenceBauer]

Ok, so I need to repair some spots on my ceiling that are currently stippled with plaster. I cannot use drywall mud, even setting type, because I have ceiling heat that still works very well, and despite the counter intuitiveness of it, is actually efficient.

It is electric resistance, not hydronic.

We actually really like the stipple on the ceiling and it appears it was rolled on as opposed to stomped as it is very random ridges all over.

You can tell over the years that someone has tried to repair places with drywall mud and, maybe you have guess by now, it just falls off in pieces.

My problem is that I haven't really ever worked with plaster and cannot for the life of me figure out WHICH type of plaster to use. Plaster of Paris, Veneer, or something else completely.

I will use BIN Shellac primer to help the bond to the brown coat from the 50s.

I had thought I figured it out and settle on X-Kaliber Veneer plaster but reading the directions, it appears that it is supposed to go over Kal-Kote plaster base. Is this just marketing and doesn't mean it'll ONLY go over Kal-Kote?

What type should I use or does it really matter, just setting times are different. I'd be working in quite small areas at a time so it shouldn't be too much of an issue.

Finally, what is the deal with painting times? I have read anywhere from 3 days to like 6 months to allow the plaster to dry fully.

The correct Plaster product for electric cable heat is the Veneer plaster.
USG Diamond Finish or Gold bond Kal-Kote coat are equal products I like the USG product.
As for the repair if the existing has been painted you will have a bond problem.
If it has not been painted than you can make the repairs ok. You will need to mist the existing area of repair with water making sure you soak it well if you are going to start your mud say @ 10:00 AM than start misting @ 08:00 AM every 15 min. MAKE SURE YOUR HEAT IS OFF.
As for painting Veneer Plaster USG Diamond plaster can be painted after 24 hours. The old time Lime & gauging plaster must cure for 30 days due to the Lime content & the type of paint used.
It sounds like you have a painted ceiling I will research some of my old plaster books & check on what to do about the painted ceiling for repairs.

 

[shelzmike]

The correct Plaster product for electric cable heat is the Veneer plaster.
USG Diamond Finish or Gold bond Kal-Kote coat are equal products I like the USG product.
As for the repair if the existing has been painted you will have a bond problem.

I am glad I asked them. Of course my local Lowe's doesnt carry either of these. (I'm not surprised. Live in a rural area and we have one of the smaller Lowe's) so now I'm going to have to find it and hopefully not have to drive 2 hours.

So, do you know the difference between the X-Kaliber they do have and the Kal-Kote veneer finish?

As far as bonding, all of my research has said basically the only thing that I could use that is moderately effective is a coat or 2 of BIN Shellac primer. Which, of course, is always super fun to put on the ceiling. It's the consistency of milk and rains down quite easily.

EDIT: Ok, so I think I am starting to use better search terms and coming up with good info. So, it looks like I may want to use something like WeldCrete (which of course my Lowe's doesn't have) or perhaps Sika or Quickrete bonding agent on the substrate?

 

[shelzmike]

In case it is important, I forgot to mention this is rock lathe throughout.

 

[ClarenceBauer]

Rock Lath system is fine you are only going to be patching the finish coating.
For the bonding agent Weldcrete bonding agent is a good product but check the info label the Blue color bonding agent is for exterior & the Pink is for interior Plaster. You may not find the pink one @ Lowes. You could use Peel Stop as your bonding agent I have used it many times over the years.
If you can not find the USG Diamond Veneer check with the nearest C.K. Supply warehouse they may ship you a bag @ a reasonable rate. Also check on the nearest drywall supply warehouse they may have it in stock.
As a last result you can mix your own Plaster finish. You will need Moulding Plaster & a finishing Lime ( Ivory Finish Lime ) the amount og moulding plaster to lime will affect the set time.
80% Moulding & 20% Lime will give you about 20 min.
A 60% Moulding & 40% Lime would be about right for you it would be more user friendly.

 

[shelzmike]

I'd have to travel for finishing lime also so will just have to get some diamond. I just can't believe out of my entire area no one ever need to use this locally.

So I used the X-Kaliber for practice technique on some primer plywood that isn't glass smooth. Primer made it more resemble brown coat texture.

It didn't go too well and I'm going to have to figure out a few things.

To start, I tried a 3/8 nap and the ridges were tiny so I switched to 3/4" nap which was closer but still smaller than what I currently have to match.

Also, I couldn't get the roller to roll at all, it just slid across the board. So then I trowled a layer flat and then tried to load up the roller and roll it on which actually went better, but still the only way I was able to make it come even close to get the stippling match was to basically kind of "butter" the plaster super thick on the roller, which is fine for small areas, but no good for larger areas and I was finally able to make it work OK.

What consistency should the plaster be to roll on stippling and is there a technique I am missing here? The only technique I have seen is people doing it with mud which works a lot better with my method but the plaster is ..slicker so not enough friction to get the roller rolling.

Side note, my wife thinks In strange, but I kinda really liked the smell of the wet plaster. Is that weird? 🙂

 

[ClarenceBauer]

I'd have to travel for finishing lime also so will just have to get some diamond. I just can't believe out of my entire area no one ever need to use this locally.

So I used the X-Kaliber for practice technique on some primer plywood that isn't glass smooth. Primer made it more resemble brown coat texture.

It didn't go too well and I'm going to have to figure out a few things.

To start, I tried a 3/8 nap and the ridges were tiny so I switched to 3/4" nap which was closer but still smaller than what I currently have to match.

Also, I couldn't get the roller to roll at all, it just slid across the board. So then I trowled a layer flat and then tried to load up the roller and roll it on which actually went better, but still the only way I was able to make it come even close to get the stippling match was to basically kind of "butter" the plaster super thick on the roller, which is fine for small areas, but no good for larger areas and I was finally able to make it work OK.

What consistency should the plaster be to roll on stippling and is there a technique I am missing here? The only technique I have seen is people doing it with mud which works a lot better with my method but the plaster is ..slicker so not enough friction to get the roller rolling.

Side note, my wife thinks In strange, but I kinda really liked the smell of the wet plaster. Is that weird? 🙂

Throw the roller away.
To get the stipple apply a parge coat of the finish plaster say about 1/8" than double back with some what thinned mix say like very, very heavy whipped cream than trowel this mixture on. If your existing stipple is 1/4" thick at the base than apply the thin base material 1/4" thick. Than using a clean & wet trowel lightly put it against the ceiling keeping it parallel to the ceiling than pull it straight down kind of like the pie topping your wife makes with egg whites. NOTE: you can use the same mixture that you use for the parge coat just add a little water if the material you are using has a working time of 20 min. than you have 8 min. to apply the parge coat & about 12 min to apply the stipples. If it sets to fast use a LITTLE cream of tartar maybe 1/8 TSP to a 5 Gal. pail of mixture.

 

[ClarenceBauer]

For got to answer the question on the smell.
Lime is used to remove odor of dead animals it will make the air smell clean & sweet.