You can probably get most of it off.
Is there a delay on the start up of the humidifier?
Is there a delay on the start up of the humidifier?
I'm on a well with a water softenerNormally evaporative humidifiers don't do that to ducts - only a spray mist type could. Unless you have a water quality issue.
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Dont think so. It seems to start immediately as the furnace kicks on.Is there a delay on the start up of the humidifier?
I do have a flow through type and not a spray/mist kind. Im surprised to see all that sediment and rust.I'd get a different humidifier before the duct damage gets any worse. If you can't easily install an air bypass type, then a power model can work. Both of those use a pad that evaporates the water rather than spraying it in as a mist. The power type takes air from the supply duct, runs it through the pad and blows it back into the same duct. It could use the same hole you have now.
Looks like he has a bypass humidifier. If so, then it doesn't matter if its installed on the supply or return duct.Re-reading, I see you have it attached to the return air duct. If that duct gets cold, it could be dew pointing the discharge and wetting the duct. Moving that to the supply duct would stop that... most are installed on the supply duct since they work much better there. Can you do that?
Nor sure I understand what that means?Looks like the system is short on return, and pulling the moisture off the pad and not just vapor.
I removed the drum humidifier the original owners had and replace it with an aspilaire flow through unit. I'm actually not sure whether the rust/sediment only started to occur after I install my unit, or if it was happening before. I do see a lot of sediment dust when i change my furnace filters so that makes me believe the problem is happening now.What is the make and model of this humidifier?
Did you have it installed or was it there when you bought the house?
To your knowledge, Was there ever a different type installed?
If there ever was an atomizing spray type installed, we may be trying to fix a problem that no longer exists.
Good suggestion about the damper.The velocity of the air going across the pad may be blowing water off it and hitting the duct.
On mine I don't leave the damper to it wide open/just halfway open. You don't need a full 5 to 6" pipe worth of airflow bypassing your furnace and going thru the humidifier.
Just enough to pick up the moisture from the pad as it evaporates.
If you have a damper on the bypass pipe as you should then try close it halfway next winter to slow down the air.
If your return air ducts are too small and there is excess suction then it may suck the water off.
I would try closing the damper halfway first. I looks like salt deposits and won't likely hurt anything, just looks ugly.