[roger wilco]

Hi all. Wondering if anyone would like to chip in with an opinion.

I'm installing handrail and iron balusters upstairs. The main issue at the moment is the point where the handrail attaches to the wall (where a rosette would typically be) will intersect with the door casing. I've attached a photo to help explain.

So my options seem to be…

• Install the rosette and handrail, then trim the casing around the rosette.
• Install the casing, then attach handrail to casing (essentially using the casing as the "rosette," although I don't think it'd be wide enough.
• What was done on the previous wooden setup — the same trim used to cover the 4x4 post was attached to the wall, from the floor as high as the handrail. That was used as the "rosette." The door casing came down until it butted against this trim.

This is all I can imagine at the moment. Any suggestions?

Thanks for any advice!

 

[BigJim]

If it were mine I would go ahead and install the door trim the set a post an inch or so away from the wall so there would be an inch or so space between the door trim and post.

The other suggestion I can think of right now would install a half post like it should be, then rip the door trim to lay beside the post. Cap the post off and notch the door trim around the cap.

 

[carpdad]

One way to fool the eye is to take the rail to the door jamb and the wall. 2 piece door trims will butt to the rail, this is your first idea. But plan the rail width so that when you fit the trim to the rail, you leave 1/4" of the trim on the door jamb side so that rail edge will be covered. You'll see some of the door trims profile and trim will not look interrupted by the rail.
Back cutting the trim on a bevel helps with tight joints.
This probably will leave you with a rail that does not match the rest, but making it in similar profile will help.

 

[hand drive]

what type of casing is in the rest of the house? you could use 4 1/2" door casing with routed edges and just butt the railing to the casing, wa la

otherwise, use a rosette to set the railing to and use a multi tool to notch the door casing around the rosette

 

[jagans]

I would buy a piece of 1x4 oak, stain it like the oak tread, and run it vertical against the opposite wall all the way up to mimic the opposite post. Use a round over bit and route the exposed edges prior to sanding and staining. Attach the 1 x 4 with CS screws, plug and stain. The rail needs to be solid. Its a rail.

 

[roger wilco]

Thanks for the replies, guys!

carpdad — You're saying to attach the rail directly to the wall, and trim the casing around it? If that's the case, any structural issues with this approach?

jagans — Is there a strength difference if I run a 1x4 up to the ceiling versus using a rosette?

I'm thinking of going with hand drive's approach; installing a square thick rosette and trimming the casing around it. I feel like anything mimicking another post against the wall is going to make things visually heavy (we're already not thrilled with our support post options).

 

[hand drive]

the spot that the rail hits the wall seems to have lots of support behind it from the door opening jack and king stud assembly, that makes the attachment process smoother...

 

[Millertyme]

I take it that post is structural and cant be moved forward?

 

[roger wilco]

Yeah — there's three of those posts upstairs (the upstairs is an addition); just basic 4x4s that we're covering with oak. Wish they could be gone!