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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Evening folks, new here - excellent forums, so much to learn. I did search thoroughly for this topic before I created this thread so I apologize in advance if it's been answered before - just point me to the thread.

That aside, my attic door seems to have developed a BEND over the years of pulling on the cord to open it. We put some insulating foam last year to make up for the bend and prevent heat from being lost during the winter.

I would like to fix it the proper way. I would just go to Home Depot and have them cut me a new piece but I don't even know what type of wood this is to ask them for.

Thanks in advance!







 

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Tool Geek
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Noxide, Welcome to the Forum

It looks to me as if there is a chunk of foam insulation that would prevent the stair panel from seating.
You should be able to push the blade of a putty knife all along the-non hinged sides of the panel.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Noxide, Welcome to the Forum

It looks to me as if there is a chunk of foam insulation that would prevent the stair panel from seating.
You should be able to push the blade of a putty knife all along the-non hinged sides of the panel.
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Thanks for the response Bob. That is correct, the foam is what we placed there last year to stop the air from leaking into the attic. If I remove the foam that is how much deflection there is in the wood. I am seeking a new piece of wood and was wondering what kind of wood this might be, really thin plywood of some sort? Is there a common type used on swing down attic stairs?
 

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Old School
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Take the plywood off, if you can, scrape that foam off it. Turn the plywood over, and remount it.

This will also let you get a good look at the plywood to see if it is cracked across that bend... in which case it would be best to go ahead and replace it.
 

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The wood that's there is too thin. That's the reason it broke. When the staircase was closed, the lip hit the frame and bent it back. To stop this from happening again, I would install stops on the interior stair frame. Either remove the current bent wood or go over the top with a 1/4" plywood. If the bent wood is too stiff to flaten out with the 1/4" ply, remove it.
Any 1/4" ply will do.
Ron
 

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I think releasing the pull down and letting the door slam back shut helped with that damage.
That would be the reason for the independent stops. Relying on that flimsy material to stop the door is bad engineering. It has the thickness of masonite and all the structual advantages.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Take the plywood off, if you can, scrape that foam off it. Turn the plywood over, and remount it.

This will also let you get a good look at the plywood to see if it is cracked across that bend... in which case it would be best to go ahead and replace it.
Willie, that's a great idea, never even thought about doing that. I can definitely give that a shot.

The wood that's there is too thin. That's the reason it broke. When the staircase was closed, the lip hit the frame and bent it back. To stop this from happening again, I would install stops on the interior stair frame. Either remove the current bent wood or go over the top with a 1/4" plywood. If the bent wood is too stiff to flaten out with the 1/4" ply, remove it.
Any 1/4" ply will do.
Ron
Thanks Ron, that was the measurement I was looking for. There is actually a big lumber yard close by our house that I can go to. I called them up today, pretty friendly folks, he stated I can even bring the piece in and he'll cut me an exact fit!


I think releasing the pull down and letting the door slam back shut helped with that damage.
Yes, a few years of doing that definitely stressed the wood in that area.

That would be the reason for the independent stops. Relying on that flimsy material to stop the door is bad engineering. It has the thickness of masonite and all the structual advantages.
Ron
This is also a great idea. I can screw some wood blocks there to act as stops with some rubber dampers glued to the wood.

I will post pics once I fix this. Thanks for your help!
 
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