[lionscourt]

I have to replicate these cabinet doors. They are quarter sawn oak from the 1950s/60s. I have a pretty good idea how to router them but I'm not sure where to get the wood or what kind of wood to use that would be economically efficient for me. They will be painted. The cab doors are approximately 21" by 22".

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[joecaption]

#1, That's not quarter sawn oak, it's just cabinet grade plywood.
I'd just round it over with a random orbital sander so I did not have to deal with tear out.

 

[lionscourt]

#1, That's not quarter sawn oak, it's just cabinet grade plywood.
I'd just round it over with a random orbital sander so I did not have to deal with tear out.

You're right I just cut thru old door. Here's cross section. So how is the oak look achieved or you just buy oak cab grade plywood?

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[joecaption]

Does not even look like Oak, just looks like flat sawn pine to me.
Why would you even concider an Oak veener if it's just going to get painted?
Pine will give you a flat surface, Oak will have deep grains.
Those recesses on the back side can be done on a table saw.

 

[lionscourt]

Thanks alot. Im off to buy oak plywood. 4x8 sheets are $50 @home depot. I was able to replicate doors using the orbital sander and my table saw for the rabbit cut. The sander lacks lacks some uniformity and I didn't do such a great job on my second one. You do have to be careful. So I hope to graduate to a router but this was a lot of help thanks a lot!

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[joecaption]

Why oak!
Pine or Birch veneer would have worked.

 

[lionscourt]

Why oak!
Pine or Birch veneer would have worked.

Oak was requested as they would match existing cabs which have been sanded down to expose the grains through the paint.

 

[joecaption]

Hay if that makes them happy let it go.
Run your hand across to old doors, are they rough? If so it's because some one did not take the time to sand it.
If there willing to pay for oak veneer and then just paint over it, god bless them.

 

[ront02769]

And you are wasting $50 by buying HD oak face plywood. REAL cabinet grade plywood will be more like twice that. In my area, I get that from L. Sweet lumber in providence or cambio plywood in Cranston. The face of both LOOKS the same but when you cut through you see this differences. HD version less plys and filled with voids. Where you will see that is where you cut through or round over the edges....and you will end up with holes that you have to fill. Ron

 

[lionscourt]

And you are wasting $50 by buying HD oak face plywood. REAL cabinet grade plywood will be more like twice that. In my area, I get that from L. Sweet lumber in providence or cambio plywood in Cranston. The face of both LOOKS the same but when you cut through you see this differences. HD version less plys and filled with voids. Where you will see that is where you cut through or round over the edges....and you will end up with holes that you have to fill. Ron

HD doesnt sell it in store. Had to go to higher end lumber store out here called Ganahls.. I think it was around $65 per board.

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[lionscourt]

My first round of routered cabs didnt go so well. Issues with tear out and alignment (table saw) has lead me to buying new/better blade for ts and making a zero clearance insert for same. Also have to use better quality wood for drawer fronts.

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[ront02769]

Tear out can be minimized by taping the line to be cut and being sure that you have the stock with the correct side up. On a circular saw, with the blade striking down, the good side would be UP. If using a skill saw with which the blade cuts UP, the good side would be down. All of that said, for drawers and doors I use solid stock. For cabinet carcasses, I use plywood. And plywood grades have gone WAY down from 60 years ago....so I hope that you end up with pieces without voids. Ron