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E2 Electrician
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DIY.Greg said:
Hi folks. I am installing a 30amp Eaton DPF221RP fusible pullout a/c disconnect, but Im using it as an appliance disconnect instead. It did not come with any instructions about how to wire it. I have quite a bit of experience with wiring, so I'm feeling pretty stupid right now. Here's what I have: 30amp disconnect switch Two fuses 10-2 UF line from main panel box off a 30amp breaker There are 2 lugs labeled 'Line', but I have only one 10-2 wire coming in. Then there are 2 fuse holders, each of which is labeled 'Load'. There is also a small 'Equipment Ground Terminal'. Are there usually 2 wires coming in for an a/c disconnect? And am I supposed to run only the hot wires through this box?

Why are you installing a fusible disconnect?
 

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E2 Electrician
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DIY.Greg said:
Because I have a refrigerator in a detached garage and it was recommended that I install a method of disconnecting the power other than going into the house and flipping the breaker.
Use a non fusible disconnect, much cheaper. And the disconnect isn't a recommendation, it's required by code, along with many others for detached structures.
 

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E2 Electrician
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DIY.Greg said:
Thanks for the advice. This one was only $11 at Lowe's, and it was suggested that I put 20amp fuses in it, but I can certainly go exchange it. But I still need to know if I should be wiring it only on the hot line.

You can't fuse the neutral, so that just gets spliced within the disconnect, and you have to use a 20 amp fuse since I am guessing you are just installing a general purpose gfci receptacle for the fridge, also, now that your detached garage has power, if it has a man door, that now requires a light .
 

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E2 Electrician
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(2) Additional Locations. Additional lighting outlets shall be installed in accordance with (A)(2)(a), (A)(2)(b), and (A)(2)(c).
(a) 
At least one wall switch–controlled lighting outlet shall be installed in hallways, stairways, attached garages, and detached garages with electric power.
(b) 
For dwelling units, attached garages, and detached garages with electric power, at least one wall switch–controlled lighting outlet shall be installed to provide illumination on the exterior side of outdoor entrances or exits with grade level access. A vehicle door in a garage shall not be considered as an outdoor entrance or exit.
(c) 
Where one or more lighting outlet(s) are installed for interior stairways, there shall be a wall switch at each floor level, and landing level that includes an entryway, to control the lighting outlet(s) where the stairway between floor levels has six risers or more.
Exception to (A)(2)(a), (A)(2)(b), and (A)(2)(c): In hallways, in stairways, and at outdoor entrances, remote, central, or automatic control of lighting shall be permitted.
 

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E2 Electrician
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rjniles said:
Can we assume this is a regular refrigerator with a cord and plug? If so, forget that disconnect. All you need is a disconnect for for the 20 amp circuuit where it enters the garage. That can be a regular 2 pole toggle switch. You do not need a separate disconnect for the fridg other than the plug & cord.

Like I already posted, once he brings power to that detached garage, now he is required to have a general purpose receptacle and light for any exterior door. Except garage doors. So let's not get off track, he still needs a disconnect for that building circuit supply.
 
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