DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks. I am installing a 30amp Eaton DPF221RP fusible pullout a/c disconnect, but Im using it as an appliance disconnect instead. It did not come with any instructions about how to wire it. I have quite a bit of experience with wiring, so I'm feeling pretty stupid right now.

Here's what I have:
30amp disconnect switch
Two fuses
10-2 UF line from main panel box off a 30amp breaker

There are 2 lugs labeled 'Line', but I have only one 10-2 wire coming in. Then there are 2 fuse holders, each of which is labeled 'Load'. There is also a small 'Equipment Ground Terminal'.

Are there usually 2 wires coming in for an a/c disconnect? And am I supposed to run only the hot wires through this box?
 

Attachments

·
E2 Electrician
Joined
·
5,655 Posts
DIY.Greg said:
Hi folks. I am installing a 30amp Eaton DPF221RP fusible pullout a/c disconnect, but Im using it as an appliance disconnect instead. It did not come with any instructions about how to wire it. I have quite a bit of experience with wiring, so I'm feeling pretty stupid right now. Here's what I have: 30amp disconnect switch Two fuses 10-2 UF line from main panel box off a 30amp breaker There are 2 lugs labeled 'Line', but I have only one 10-2 wire coming in. Then there are 2 fuse holders, each of which is labeled 'Load'. There is also a small 'Equipment Ground Terminal'. Are there usually 2 wires coming in for an a/c disconnect? And am I supposed to run only the hot wires through this box?

Why are you installing a fusible disconnect?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Because I have a refrigerator in a detached garage and it was recommended that I install a method of disconnecting the power other than going into the house and flipping the breaker.
 

·
E2 Electrician
Joined
·
5,655 Posts
DIY.Greg said:
Because I have a refrigerator in a detached garage and it was recommended that I install a method of disconnecting the power other than going into the house and flipping the breaker.
Use a non fusible disconnect, much cheaper. And the disconnect isn't a recommendation, it's required by code, along with many others for detached structures.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the advice. This one was only $11 at Lowe's, and it was suggested that I put 20amp fuses in it, but I can certainly go exchange it. But I still need to know if I should be wiring it only on the hot line.
 

·
E2 Electrician
Joined
·
5,655 Posts
DIY.Greg said:
Thanks for the advice. This one was only $11 at Lowe's, and it was suggested that I put 20amp fuses in it, but I can certainly go exchange it. But I still need to know if I should be wiring it only on the hot line.

You can't fuse the neutral, so that just gets spliced within the disconnect, and you have to use a 20 amp fuse since I am guessing you are just installing a general purpose gfci receptacle for the fridge, also, now that your detached garage has power, if it has a man door, that now requires a light .
 

·
E2 Electrician
Joined
·
5,655 Posts
(2) Additional Locations. Additional lighting outlets shall be installed in accordance with (A)(2)(a), (A)(2)(b), and (A)(2)(c).
(a) 
At least one wall switch–controlled lighting outlet shall be installed in hallways, stairways, attached garages, and detached garages with electric power.
(b) 
For dwelling units, attached garages, and detached garages with electric power, at least one wall switch–controlled lighting outlet shall be installed to provide illumination on the exterior side of outdoor entrances or exits with grade level access. A vehicle door in a garage shall not be considered as an outdoor entrance or exit.
(c) 
Where one or more lighting outlet(s) are installed for interior stairways, there shall be a wall switch at each floor level, and landing level that includes an entryway, to control the lighting outlet(s) where the stairway between floor levels has six risers or more.
Exception to (A)(2)(a), (A)(2)(b), and (A)(2)(c): In hallways, in stairways, and at outdoor entrances, remote, central, or automatic control of lighting shall be permitted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow! Thanks a lot! That info really helps me. I've got some work cut out for me today, but I'll update with my progress. Tx again.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
16,289 Posts
General purpose circuits cannot be higher than 20 amps. A simple toggle switch could be the disconnect or the cord could also be the means of disconnect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Lots of sets of instruction manuals are online these days. I Googled for instructions for your disconnect and within a few minutes -- came up with nothing. But it is something to try for the next gadget.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
16,289 Posts
The disconnect will have the terminals labeled.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Speedy Petey

·
A "Handy Husband"
Joined
·
13,836 Posts
Can we assume this is a regular refrigerator with a cord and plug?

If so, forget that disconnect. All you need is a disconnect for for the 20 amp circuuit where it enters the garage. That can be a regular 2 pole toggle switch.

You do not need a separate disconnect for the fridg other than the plug & cord.
 

·
E2 Electrician
Joined
·
5,655 Posts
rjniles said:
Can we assume this is a regular refrigerator with a cord and plug? If so, forget that disconnect. All you need is a disconnect for for the 20 amp circuuit where it enters the garage. That can be a regular 2 pole toggle switch. You do not need a separate disconnect for the fridg other than the plug & cord.

Like I already posted, once he brings power to that detached garage, now he is required to have a general purpose receptacle and light for any exterior door. Except garage doors. So let's not get off track, he still needs a disconnect for that building circuit supply.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update 8/14: Well, I've learned a lot from this forum..Special thanks to stickboy1375. Based on all the advice, I decided that the fusible disconnect was only a partial solution, so here's what I did. I installed a 30amp subpanel in the garage, from which I ran a circuit for the refrigerator, one for a switched outside light, another for interior switched overhead lights and another for 3 outlets spaced evenly around the interior. It was a lot more work, but in the end I am quite satisfied that I started this thread and listened to all your advice. Thanks!
 

·
UAW SKILLED TRADES
Joined
·
5,341 Posts
Update 8/14: Well, I've learned a lot from this forum..Special thanks to stickboy1375. Based on all the advice, I decided that the fusible disconnect was only a partial solution, so here's what I did. I installed a 30amp subpanel in the garage, from which I ran a circuit for the refrigerator, one for a switched outside light, another for interior switched overhead lights and another for 3 outlets spaced evenly around the interior. It was a lot more work, but in the end I am quite satisfied that I started this thread and listened to all your advice. Thanks!
Can you post some pictures of your 30 amp sub-panel in the detached garage with the cover removed ?

There are specific codes governing this installation. We just want to check and make sure you wired the sub-panel correctly. This would include a grounding electrode system and neutral and ground separated at the sub-panel
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top