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We are having problems with sewage smell, and I discovered that the toilet vent is venting into the attic, not outside. Am I right in assuming that it is supposed to go all the way outside? How do I do this without causing problems with leaks in the roof? Should it vent through a wall instead of the roof? Any help would be appreciated.:)
 

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If you vent through the wall, stink may be drawn into the attic through the soffit vents. It is best to vent through the roof, and easiest to do that before the roofing material is put on. Any roofer should be able to retrofit the flashing around the vent pipe if you don't want to tackle it. Or, you can install an air admittance valve; I have never seen one, but a custom builder I know uses them to avoid potential roof leaks and sending btu's up the vent pipe 24-7.
 

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We are having problems with sewage smell, and I discovered that the toilet vent is venting into the attic, not outside. Am I right in assuming that it is supposed to go all the way outside? How do I do this without causing problems with leaks in the roof? Should it vent through a wall instead of the roof? Any help would be appreciated.:)
Put it through the roof just like every house in America. Like most things, if it's done correctly, you won't have a problem.
 
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Except those using air admittance valves. I will be. If this situation has no chance of freezing in the attic, I'd put one on the pipe that is there and be done w/ it. If freezing is an issue, then through the roof. http://www.ipscorp.com/studor
These must be like double cylinder locks, because you can't use these in NYC and Nassau County in NY.
 

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Ron: You can't use air admittance valves, or double cylinder blocks in those places? I am only familiar w/ the air admittance valves to the extent that a local ultra-insulated builder uses them, and they are apparently common in Europe. thanks. j
 

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Ron: You can't use air admittance valves, or double cylinder blocks in those places? I am only familiar w/ the air admittance valves to the extent that a local ultra-insulated builder uses them, and they are apparently common in Europe. thanks. j
Last time I had a conversation with a plumber on the job site(2005) about an added bath in a house I was renovating, you couldn't. He had to open walls to get a vent to the roof.
But up until recently you couldn't use PVC piping and Romex in NYC.
I don't know if air eliminators have been approved.
 

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Ron: You can't use air admittance valves, or double cylinder blocks in those places? I am only familiar w/ the air admittance valves to the extent that a local ultra-insulated builder uses them, and they are apparently common in Europe. thanks. j
Oh they are common in Scandinavia. :) And they work very well, My plumber (whom I no longer use) has been lazy and built several bathrooms without air vents which lead to drains being sucked out and needing to be filled all the time to prevent smell. For a toilet and sink a valve right on the 2-inch pipe in the bathroom has been sufficient, no cloggings and no wheezing noise when flushing. A bigger valve in the attic is more than enough, but if it for some reason is not allowed where you live I guess you will have to go through the roof. Not a problem either since it has been done that way "always".
 

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In my area of n Georgia the ahj requires at least one vent thru roof and supplemental admittance valves must be assessable. I whined about roof penetration and he reluctantly agreed to allow wall penetration thru sidewalk peak. My plumber advised against so I ended up with 2 penetrations.

I manage commercial properties for a living and won't allow tenants to install aav unless it is impossible to vent otherwise. They can and do fail and it is a health issue.
 
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