[Keith Mathewson]

I'm referring to IRC codes, for which 7 3/4" is max, however you need to be aware of what your local codes are as they may be different.

 

[DannyT]

drtbk4ever shows the best way to do it

 

[mae-ling]

Lengthen the wall on the left of the stairs say1.5" so you can transition to flat before the corner

 

[drtbk4ever]

drtbk4ever shows the best way to do it

For the record i pulled that drawing out of the link that Keith put up.

 

[BigJim]

See if you recognize one of our members in this link.
http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2011/11/25/traditional-tangent-handrail/

 

[Gary in WA]

Only if accessible space; http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_sec002_par018.htm

Gary
P.S. I would have finished the drywall corner bead before the stair skirt trim board...

 

[Millertyme]

Just for the record, and as Keith has already mentioned, local code around here for rise max is 8-1/4". I have built many stairs at this max, not by choice but by framing restrictions, and I must say an 8" rise is not as bad as many people would think.

 

[dieselscout80]

Here is a pic mockup of what I'm planning on doing for the landing transition.

I have a couple more questions on my stair treads I plan to glue and nail (ring-shank) both the treads and the risers to the stringers.

1. Stair treads and risers how tight to the skirt board should the treads and risers be? If they are suppose to be tight I'll glue and nail them too. I'm worried that if the treads and risers are tight with the skirt board there maybe flexing that will separate the skirt board from the drywall.

2. Should I put drywall corner bead on before I do the final install of the skirt boards?

 

[Millertyme]

I usually use a liquid nail behind that skirt board and then nail it. The risers and treads should be tight, but dont force hem in too tight or it might create gaps on the previous step.

That corner, where the upper stair comes around the corner is going to give you trouble. There should be a small triangle shaped piece on the upper stringer so hat you can level off before you make the corner. On the lower section, I usually will come down plumb instead of making that 45 angle cut. You also need to give yourself more level surface wrapping That second corner. You just need more room to make your cuts.

I always corner bead first, if you don't, the mud might compromise your reveals

 

[Keith Mathewson]

extend the landing wall out a few inches. That will solve most of your problems.