[farmerjohn1324]

My pool light wasn't working. I never use the pool, but I think I remember it last worked maybe 12 months ago. I could tell the bulb was broken when I replaced it. Now I want to test the fixture before I fill the pool back up. I know I'm not supposed to turn the bulb on unless it's submerged, but they told me at the pool store it would be okay for a few seconds.

So I plugged an extension cord into a Gfci in my bathroom and ran it out to a whip outside, then to a switch, then to the fixture.

I had the switch on when I plugged it in to the gfci. The gfci immediately tripped. So I reset the unplugged the extension cord, reset the gfci, and turned the switch to off. This time the gfci didn't trip. I tested the switch and found power with a multimeter. Tried again with the switch on and it tripped again.

I then disconnected everything and tested the hot and neutral of the fixture with the ohm meter and it beeped and read 2.0. Does this tell me the fixture is okay? I don't understand why the gfci tripped.

Update: I think I solved the problem as I was typing. It's because the pool bulb draws too much power. It's 4000 watts. But this doesn't entirely make sense because the old one was 3300 watts and didn't trip the 20 amp breaker or gfci. A 20amp breaker should let only 2200 watts through.

 

[surferdude2]

You can't run either of those kind of loads on a 20 amp 120 volt circuit.

3300 Watts @ 120 volts = 27.5 amps!!

Take another look at the wattage rating on the bulb and we can regroup.

You need to check for any resistance from the green wire to either of the other leads with the bulb screwed in. If there is any reading other than infinity, you have a ground fault that will trip that GFCI.

The best advice I can offer is to convert that to a low voltage light. Line voltage pool light repairs are not for the neophyte, as most pool dealers will or should tell you.

 

[farmerjohn1324]

You can't run either of those kind of loads on a 20 amp 120 volt circuit.

3300 Watts @ 120 volts = 27.5 amps!!

Take another look at the wattage rating on the bulb and we can regroup.

You need to check for any resistance from the green wire to either of the other leads with the bulb screwed in. If there is any reading other than infinity, you have a ground fault that will trip that GFCI.

The best advice I can offer is to convert that to a low voltage light. Line voltage pool light repairs are not for the neophyte, as most pool dealers will or should tell you.

Lol yes I thought it seemed high. The new bulb is 400 watts. The old one must have been 330. So it should run fine on this breaker. I verified the bulb works in a different fixture.

So I should get my ohm meter... Place one probe on the ground coming from the fixture, and the other on either hot or neutral coming from fixture?

 

[farmerjohn1324]

You can't run either of those kind of loads on a 20 amp 120 volt circuit.

3300 Watts @ 120 volts = 27.5 amps!!

Take another look at the wattage rating on the bulb and we can regroup.

You need to check for any resistance from the green wire to either of the other leads with the bulb screwed in. If there is any reading other than infinity, you have a ground fault that will trip that GFCI.

The best advice I can offer is to convert that to a low voltage light. Line voltage pool light repairs are not for the neophyte, as most pool dealers will or should tell you.

Got it. Thanks.

https://youtu.be/tc_Pm8ioB-U

 

[farmerjohn1324]

You can't run either of those kind of loads on a 20 amp 120 volt circuit.

3300 Watts @ 120 volts = 27.5 amps!!

Take another look at the wattage rating on the bulb and we can regroup.

You need to check for any resistance from the green wire to either of the other leads with the bulb screwed in. If there is any reading other than infinity, you have a ground fault that will trip that GFCI.

The best advice I can offer is to convert that to a low voltage light. Line voltage pool light repairs are not for the neophyte, as most pool dealers will or should tell you.

I started getting readings at "20k" and higher. Everything below 20k was OL.

So I believe I have a ground fault. Is it easiest to fix it, or to replace the fixture? Is it even possible to fix it?

 

[surferdude2]

I wouldn't want to bet my life on that fixture! If you can't find something easy/blatently and absolutely safely fixable beyond a shadow of a doubt, pitch it and get a new fixture.

I still recommend a low voltage conversion.

SD2

 

[farmerjohn1324]

I wouldn't want to bet my life on that fixture! If you can't find something easy/blatently and absolutely safely fixable beyond a shadow of a doubt, pitch it and get a new fixture.

I still recommend a low voltage conversion.

SD2

So I need to buy a step-down transformer? Or do the low voltage fixtures come with transformers built in?

 

[surferdude2]

You will need to buy the transformer and install it where it can feed the fixture wire. The VA (VoltAmP) rating needed will depend on the type light you select.

Shop around... some of these transformers are crazy priced. Likewise with the lights... check with your pool service to see if they have some deal on LED lights to retrofit your fixture.

SD2

 

[farmerjohn1324]

check with your pool service to see if they have some deal on LED lights to retrofit your fixture.

SD2

I thought there was no option but to replace the fixture.

 

[surferdude2]

I'd not have any real fear if the fixture was converted to a low voltage type. That would be 12 volts and no real danger of killing anybody. A ground fault would be insignificant since you'd be running from an isolation transformer and the output of it has no grounded conductor... unlike the 120 line that has a grounded conductor which makes it more dangerous in some circumstances.

In their infinite wisdom, the powers that be have determined that grounding one conductor in a residential service is safer than not doing it, even though it will cause some people to get electrocuted... supposedly fewer than if grounded. We need the protection from lightning strikes and line surges so we have to put up with the other hazards we incur while trying to avert it.

SD2

 

[farmerjohn1324]

I'd not have any real fear if the fixture was converted to a low voltage type. That would be 12 volts and no real danger of killing anybody. A ground fault would be insignificant since you'd be running from an isolation transformer and the output of it has no grounded conductor... unlike the 120 line that has a grounded conductor which makes it more dangerous.

In their infinite wisdom, the powers that be have determined that grounding one conductor in a residential service is safer than not doing it, even though it will cause some people to get electrocuted... supposedly fewer than if grounded. We need the protection from lightning strikes and line surges so we have to put up with the other hazards we incur while trying to avert it.

SD2

Are you saying there's a way to keep this fixture even though it has a ground fault?

 

[surferdude2]

I would use it if it were me. Obviously it will not be in compliance with its UL listing but common sense says it's going to be even better. All code is considered as a minimum so making it safer by going with low voltage is obviously better. To each his own on such things... I would put a low voltage bulb of some sort in there and never look back.

I would check to see if it was wet inside and maybe that caused the ground fault. That would maybe require a new gasket or whatever since water would eventually cause greater damage to the inside of the fixture.

SD2

 

[farmerjohn1324]

I would use it if it were me. Obviously it will not be in compliance with its UL listing but common sense says it's going to be even better. All code is considered as a minimum so making it safer by going with low voltage is obviously better. To each his own on such things... I would put a low voltage bulb of some sort in there and never look back.

I would check to see if it was wet inside and maybe that caused the ground fault. That would maybe require a new gasket or whatever since water would eventually cause greater damage to the inside of the fixture.

SD2

Ok. Sounds like I have more testing to do.

I'll see if it trips with no bulb in it.

 

[surferdude2]

Google for an R40 12 volt bulb and see what you can use.

Click Here For an Example

SD2

 

[farmerjohn1324]

Google for an R40 12 volt bulb and see what you can use.

Click Here For an Example

SD2

This is very weird. I just did the same test and now the multimeter reads OL for ohms at every setting. The bulb is still in.

 

[surferdude2]

Dried out and fixed itself. You need to put a new cord and cord entry seal gland on it and then replace the lens gasket. You should be good to go then.

SD2

 

[farmerjohn1324]

Dried out and fixed itself. You need to put a new cord and cord entry seal gland on it and then replace the lens gasket. You should be good to go then.

SD2

I have replaced the lens gasket and it has not been submerged since. I know the light should not be on without it submerged, but the guy at the pool store told me it's okay for 1 second.

Why do you think the cord needs to be replaced?

Where does the entry seal gland go? Is it...

1. Where the cord enters the fixture?
2. Where the cord goes out the back of the niche?
3. Where the cord reappears above ground?

 

[surferdude2]

The sealing gland is at the back of the fixture where the cord exits. I just suggested replacing all that while you are you are at it if it's handy. If you do replace the cord, go with a #10 for the replacement. The 12 volt lamps draw 10 times the current and the old cord would be marginal at best.

SD2

 

[farmerjohn1324]

The sealing gland is at the back of the fixture where the cord exits. I just suggested replacing all that while you are you are at it if it's handy. If you do replace the cord, go with a #10 for the replacement. The 12 volt lamps draw 10 times the current and the old cord would be marginal at best.

SD2

The sealing gland is inside this nut?

You're saying I can put in a 12volt light inside this fixture, but I need the transformer first, right?

 

[farmerjohn1324]

Dried out and fixed itself. You need to put a new cord and cord entry seal gland on it and then replace the lens gasket. You should be good to go then.

SD2

I once again tried to hook it up to a gfci and switch. The gfci tripped once again.