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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to run 8” round rigid ductwork from my basement, up through a closet on the first floor and on up to the attic/ second floor. What is the correct way to support this vertical ductwork? I figure there’s got to be a special clamp or something to secure it to the wall or floor at each level but I can’t find anything. I’m sure I can rig something with some steel strapping or clamps but what is the correct way to do it?


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There is no correct way. It is not that heavy. I would support it at the bottom with perforated hanger strap and where it enters the attic and turns horizontal.

You could hang it at that point with strapping. Ideally you don't want to secure it at the floor level as it needs to expand and contract with temperature change.

If it is heating pipe then it expands a lot, return air not much. If it is too tight it may ping and boing and be noisy.
 

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If you can find those plates and let the pipe sit on top of the bottom one ( float) it should be able to expand and contract upward. Don't make it tight at the top either.
 

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The linear expansion on 25' of metal duct for forced hot air is about 1/8". There is only a typical temp rise of about 50 degrees F. So linear expansion is low. Most of the banging from duct work is expanding and contracting plenums and from undersized ducts.


The fire stop above is for a B-vent double wall chimney pipe. Over kill for heating duct but would work. If it's all hidden in a chase I would be strapping to the wall or maybe a standoff block for positioning.


But also important, if this chase runs from basement to attic be sure to block air flow. You do not want damp basement air rising up into the attic space, and then venting out via a ridge vent. It further increases stack effect. In extreme cases could cause mold on the roof deck.
 

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I've rarely seen anything other than perforated plumbers strap used creatively. We did a university job once that required everything to "be all it could be" and those "professional" fittings were used. On small jobs, it costs more than people want to pay.
 

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Pipes can creak from expansion and not always pop.

Point is is you make it tight and close up the wall and there is a noise later you will be sorry. Vibration is also a issue with some.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think I’ll just support it with straps from above in the attic and below in the basement and use nothing in the chase in the closet. I’d be worried about rubbing noises and not being able to fix them without ripping out drywall. Thanks all.


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These kind of noises bother me every night in the house I now live in. I can see why since we have a suspended drop ceiling in the basement and I can lift a tile out to see the shoddy work the plumber did on new construction. No joist penetration bushings and improper use of nailer clamps.

You can't easily fix this stuff later... do it right the first time! Never securely capture anything that changes temperature in normal operation. period!
 

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You should come on up to the GWN, Great White North.

The vent from my shower drain to the main stack is secured to the rafters just above my shower. When it is below -20 C/-4C it gets warm after a shower and expands. Then the cold air temp gets to it later it ( even though it is insulated ) and after cooling down makes this huge pop.

If the plumber had left it free floating or loose then it could move horizontal. Not a huge problem but if it was running thru a closet and I had to try and sleep and listen to some pipe creaking I would be really pisssed off at myself.

Same with freon lines running thru walls. You get that gurgling and water running sound from the liquid line.
 
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