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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having issues painting my doors by hand using Sherwin Williams Superpaint. Normally, this stuff levels out pretty nicely but I laid it on extra thick last night and now I have a ridgy mess.

How can I most easily strip this off and repaint by hand smoothly?
 

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I don't know about liquid strippers I have never used them.What I would do is wait until it has cured enough to sand without rolling up on the paper.Use a palm sander with 150 paper and go at it.You don't need to strip it just get it smooth and start over.Looks like you need a better brush.Thin the paint a little if you need to and lay it off smoothly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I started peeling it with a paint scraper and then peeled it back off like a cheap latex mask. This paint didn't seem to adhere well to whatever was under it. Would oil based paint do this?

I use Purdy brushes exclusively with Sherwin Williams SuperPaint, so i'm not sure what my problem was, other than that I perhaps laid it on a little too thick.

I have sprayed SW Pro Classic acrylic latex enamel with a 2.3 in a conversion HVLP gravity gun before thinned with water and Floetrol. I had great success. I have not ever tried SuperPaint in this sort of setup but I think that SuperPaint is thicker than Pro Classic. Is this a waste of time or should I just try sanding it down smooth and retry painting with my Purdy brush with a thinner coat?
 

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The brush will work fine if the paint is applied properly but what you have there is not bonding at all. It appears to be oil based paint that you painted over. You will have to get all that off peeling and some chemical stripper if necessary-you can't sand that.Then prime with a bonding primer(Zinsser 1-2-3 is my go to) and then 2 coats of your finish paint.It will take time for the primer and paint to cure and bond so handle them carefully for a couple weeks after finishing.Or, scuff sand and use an oil finish paint.
 

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I use a foam roller on doors and only use the brush for detail and tip off.
Comes out smooth as glass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I thought latex on top of oil based paint was ok. Guess not.

I'm working on 5 doors right now, two of the doors I sprayed with the Pro Classic which seemed to adhere just fine to the latex that was on top of the oil.

To clear things up further, we bought the house as a REO, and the production painter had sprayed these doors with a very cheap Glidden America's best semi-gloss latex. I can peel this crap off by hand. I figured that painting over with some SuperPaint would do the job.

I do know that spraying over it with the Pro Classic laid it on nice and smooth and it seems to have dried very hard.
 

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Latex on top of oil is ok with proper priming.Never put a latex paint directly over oil.It will not bond.Purdy is the best brush I have ever used...I like the xl sprig.If you would rather spray with the hvlp....it would look great. I prefer to brush...just me, but the sprayer leaves NO brush marks.I use an hvlp at times....but most of my work is repaints and I like to leave the doors on and brush them.It's easier for me not to have to move a bunch of doors around and no handling them.
 

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I thought latex on top of oil based paint was ok. Guess not.

I'm working on 5 doors right now, two of the doors I sprayed with the Pro Classic which seemed to adhere just fine to the latex that was on top of the oil.

To clear things up further, we bought the house as a REO, and the production painter had sprayed these doors with a very cheap Glidden America's best semi-gloss latex. I can peel this crap off by hand. I figured that painting over with some SuperPaint would do the job.:eek:

I do know that spraying over it with the Pro Classic laid it on nice and smooth and it seems to have dried very hard.

wrong
latex can be applied over oil with PROPER prep, sanding and bonding primer
 

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Follow Chrisn's advice to the letter here....
He KNOWS what he's talking about.

Applying paint too heavy actually defeats the purpose, if in fact that was done.
* If paint gets too thick, the outer portion of that coat may dry...
* BUT...the bottom never fully cures, OR adheres as well as it could.
* Thinner coats dry more thoroughly/faster.

Faron
 
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