[Mlorek]

Guys, I have a question on how to run a switch and then under cabinet lighting. If you look at the attached photos you will see that I have a switch on either side of the cabinets on the backsplash. I was going to install a box just to the left of this switch and pull power from that, I can then do a real short bx run to the cabinets above. My question is for the other cabinet section to the right. I'd like to have the lights on the same switch and be code compliant. Would it be best to run a conduit run following the rear of the cabinets and all the way on the back wall to the right cabinets and then transition it to a bx run up to the cabinets? I want to avoid cutting the wall open if I can. And if doing this is the right way, do I have to worry about the conduit run passing the rear of the sink?

Thanks for any help guys

Mike

 

[Mlorek]

One more

 

[oh'mike]

You got ahead of yourself---the wiring is usually done before the walls are closed up.

Most under counter wiring is low voltage---so a switched outlet is wired to the inside of one of the base cabinets---this is where the transformer will be plugged in--
then low voltage wires (14 Ga. lamp cord) is run from another box next to the switched outlet--behind the drywall--up to the bottom of the cabinets--

Like I said---should have been done before the wall was covered--and the cabinets hung.

 

[Mlorek]

Thanks for the quick reply Mike. I guess then I'm confused on what route to still take, I don't want to take the cabinets off but can and will cut a access to the wall through the Durock. Is that my best bet??

Mike

 

[oh'mike]

You should be able to drill a hole in the bottom /back of the cabinet --into the Durock and fish a wire down to the top of the base cabinet---the counter top/back splash will hide the damage--how you will get from the cabinet with the switched outlet over to the cabinets past your stove might be a trick.

Is your basement finished? If not--the low voltage wire can go down into the basement then back up into the other cabinet base.

Most low voltage LED lights will allow for more than one light to be wired to a single feed wire.

 

[brric]

1. You have no switches on those walls.
2. If that is a kitchen you can not use countertop receptacles to power lighting.
3. You can not use lamp cord inside walls unless it is rated for in wall use.

 

[Mlorek]

Thanks for the replies guys, Mike the basement isn't finished yet I'm in the process. Both of those outlets are in 4x4 boxes so I can cut them out and put the switch in the same box with the outlet. brric this is going to be a basement bar, I don't know if that changes pulling power from the outlets? I said switches in my original post, I correct myself I meant outlets. I looked at my photos before I sealed the wall up and I can fish a hot wire to both outlets to power the lights. I guess what I'm wondering now is , can I pull power for under cabinet lighting from the outlet or is that against code? And will the power be ok to wire the light into?

Thanks guys


Mike

 

[twinklerai]

Step 1: Double check your lights before cutting or installing
Step 2: Take Measurements and Make Cuts
Step 3: Preparing the Strip-to-Power Connection
Step 4: Connecting two lengths of LED strips with strip-to-strip connector
Step 5: Combining strips with Strip-to-Strip "no wire" connectors
Step 6: Test the Strip (IMPORTANT)!
Step 7: Install the LED Strips under the counter
Step 8: Installing the Dimmer
Step 9: Turn on the Lights!

You can find LED lighting and LED lighting price list on several websites

 

[FrodoOne]

1. You have no switches on those walls.
2. If that is a kitchen you can not use countertop receptacles to power lighting.
3. You can not use lamp cord inside walls unless it is rated for in wall use.

As an "outsider" I am interested in posts such as exist on this thread and I am also intrigued by the different regulations which pertain under different systems in different countries.

At 1, you state "You have no switches on those walls."
However, I assume that "Light" switches could be installed adjacent to the socket outlets.
2. "If that is a kitchen you can not use countertop receptacles to power lighting."
Does that mean that if it was not a "kitchen" you may do so, or may you not use the "feed" to a receptacle (socket outlet) to power "lighting" circuits.
(Does this relate to "new" US kitchen installations being now required to have 20 A socket outlets, whereas US lighting circuits (and most socket outlets) are normally 15 A [protected]?)
3. "You can not use lamp cord inside walls unless it is rated for in wall use."
Is the rating of wire for "in-wall" use dependent on it being "double-insulted" - or what?.

I realize that some may think that I am being "contentious" - and, perhaps, I am!
However, let me draw your attention to the situation which exists in my country (Australia) with but 7% of the population of the USA (while the USA has only 4.4% of the world's population!)

If you view http://www.clipsal.com/Trade/Products/ProductDetail?catno=2025XA, http://www.clipsal.com/Trade/Products/ProductDetail?catno=ML25X and similar sites, you will see that it is here (in Australia) allowable (and common) to have a "lighting" circuit switched via a switch located on a socket outlet.
While all such socket outlets provide 10 A at 230 V (min) (via 16 A "Breaker" and 2.5 mm CSA conductors [app AWG 13]), "lighting" circuits might be provided only via a 10 A "Breaker" and 1 mm CSA conductors [app AWG 17].)
Of course, all who appreciate the mathematics involved will understand that a US 20 A socket outlet operating at 120V is almost equivalent (in Wattage) to an Australian/European 10 A socket outlet operating at 230V - with a 50% less usage of copper conductive material in Australia/Europe, with but a very small increase (if any) of insulation material.
(i.e. Australian/European practice is more cost effective!)

If an Australian "lighting" circuit is provided from a 16 A "power" circuit, the wiring to it must be in 16 A rated wiring up to the "fitting" or the "transformer", and the Breaker must be marked as supplying a "dual" Power/Lighting circuit.

Of course, the additional switch in a socket outlet here in Australia may be used, instead, to switch a 10 A "lighting" circuit via a 10 A Breaker utilizing 1 mm CSA wiring - for both Line and Neutral - derived from a (10 A) circuit Breaker which will be separate from any 16 A Breaker protected "power" circuit involved.