[Malcolm]

I'm assuming this is built up to look like this. What I mean by built up is that it is comprised of several different pieces of trim. For scale, the trim sits atop a sliding glass door. Do the box stores sell all the necessary trim pieces to replicate this? If so, do you know what each layer would be called?

 

[BigJim]

The very top piece is a 1X with an ogee edge with crown mold under the 1X. It looks like the piece against the wall is a 1X8 with a small base cap upside down applied to the bottom edge of the 1X8.

I like a little smaller crown or ceiling mold than that in your picture.

 

[joecaption]

Only one that may be hard to match up in a box store is that casing.
May have to look for an older real lumber yard for it.
It's not uncommon in older homes to find trim that was made locally at a planning mill with knives they made on site.
I base the size of the crown molding used by the ceiling height, taller ceilings, wider crown.
That crown you have would look silly if someone only had 8' ceilings, looks like yours are much higher.

 

[Malcolm]

What is the best way to attach them to one another? I have a brad nail gun and finish nail gun? I am thinking about picking up a pin nailer. I'm mostly concerned about the small mitered end pieces.

 

[Malcolm]

Do you guys think this is overkill for trim? Mine would just be painted trim. The ceiling height is 8 ft, but it is a cathedral ceiling.

 

[BigJim]

I like that, it is neat and clean. Make a mock up and see how it looks for you, if it needs adjusting then would be the time to change.

 

[Canarywood1]

What is the best way to attach them to one another? I have a brad nail gun and finish nail gun? I am thinking about picking up a pin nailer. I'm mostly concerned about the small mitered end pieces.

Best way would be to glue them, and use a pin nailer to act as clamps while the glue dries.

 

[Keith Mathewson]

Neither of those two pictures looks to be particularly well proportioned to me. You are replicating classical design, you may wish to look at some of the older design books.

 

[1acre]

when making "custom" trim like this, I like to nail up a piece and then move onto the next piece. Not make an entire thing off the wall and then hope it fits. Definitely, I don't use pocket holes for this. And I use mdf regularly. Not very difficult to do, lots of cuts though, so if your saw isn't close it can take some time.

I agree that your trim is not well proportioned. Your casing is huge and your crown looks small and cheap. I would rather have nice crown and simple casing. jmo.

 

[jrp458]

Do you guys think this is overkill for trim? Mine would just be painted trim. The ceiling height is 8 ft, but it is a cathedral ceiling.

I would change the crown to a larger profile or rip the material below it to a more proportional size.

 

[ChuckF.]

Re the second design, the crown on the ceiling is a cove design, yet the window design you propose uses a flat piece for the crown detail. That gives the window more a plain craftsman-style look, while the ceiling is a classic style. You should try to be more consistent.

 

[woodworkbykirk]

the proportions on the first one are totally wrong.. the crown is far too big in relation to both the flatstock portion and the lower molding.. a 2 1/2" crown would be fine

on the 2nd picture the biggest thing i see wrong is that the crown on the door header doesnt match that of the ceiling along with being so close together.. it would be fine on a 9ft ceiling..

and as already stated.. the pocket hole screws arent required for such an application. just get a micro pinner then glue and nail the lower bullnose to the flat stock.. scuff it with some sandpaper and the nails will pretty much disappear

 

[Malcolm]

Thanks for all the help.

I couldn't find all the pieces at the big box stores, so I used my router to make the Roman Ogee pieces for the stop and above the crown. I also made the frieze board a little thicker. I used 1 x pine (3/4 actual). I ended up making it a total of 1 1/2 inches thick using a mitered end. I also made the trim a little thicker as well. I didn't use pocket screws for the project. I just glued everything and used pin and brad nails. I finished it off with SW Pro Classic paint to match the factory finish of the door.