[twags]

I apologize if this is too long or too much information but I thought it would make more sense if I made everything as clear as possible. Thank you for your patience.

End of last summer my condenser fan motor went bad (fan did not spin and loud squealing noise) on my AC unit. I purchased a universal Emerson motor online to replace the bad condenser fan motor. After a lot of research I am still not comfortable installing the motor myself. Here are some of my high level concerns and questions. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

1. Proper Wiring: My old fan motor has three wires - black, purple and brown. The new fan motor has 4 (excluding the 4 wires used for fan rotation) - black, white, brown and brown/white stripe. QUESTION 1: Based on the information below (technical details) what would my new wiring configuration look like? I am having trouble determining the new wiring setup based on the 4 wire set out of the new motor and the new capacitor.

2. Capacitor: I was going to use the old capacitor. I emailed Emerson to see if I could use the old and they told me that I need to use the new capacitor that shipped with the motor. This adds complexity to the install since the old capacitor has 3 heads (one head with 1 pin, second head with 3 pins and forth with 4 pins) and the new capacitor has 2 heads with 4 pins each. QUESTION 2: Similar to question 1, should I use the new capacitor and what wires should go to each pin (see info below on current motor wiring and wiring to capacitor)?

3. Discharge of the old capacitor. I plan to turn the power off to both the unit and the house but I don't want to get shocked by the capacitor. I need information on the proper way to discharge the capacitor. QUESTION 3: How can I easily discharge the power from the capacitor? I currently don't have any specific tools for electrical work (meters, testers, etc).

NOTE: See pictures that go along with this narrative - current unit, wiring setup, wiring diagram, motor and new motor, new motor wiring diagram, etc.. I can attach more if needed.

EXISITING SYSTEM:

1. AC Unit - Goodman (Model CKJ48-1B, Serial, 9704113098).

2. Old Motor (broken): GE - Here are the specs. from the label on the motor.

MODEL 5KCP39EG R808AS HP - 1/4
VOLT - 208-230
RPM 1075
HZ - 60
AMP - 1.5

THERMALLY PROTECTED
CL B INS-CONT AIR OVER

3. Existing Capacitor

97F9895
5uf
45uf 370VAC
+06 -06% 50/60Hz
PRTECTED P968
S10000AFC 7143GB02
B94557-7200 / GREEN

4. Existing wiring:

My existing motor only has three wires and is connected this way.
Black -> T1
Brown -> F (on the capacitor)
Purple -> C (on the capacitor)

Current wiring to capacitor (NOTE: current capacitor has 3 heads - one head with 1 pin, second head with 3 pins and third head with 1 pin. The new capacitor only has 2 heads with 4 pins each)

Head 1 on current cap. - only one wire - brown (coming from motor - label "F" on cap) ]

Head 2 on current cap. - purple (coming from motor to "C" on cap.), red (going to starter assistant device to "C" on cap), red (coming
from T2 to "C" on cap).

Head 3 on current cap - yellow (compressor to "HERM" on cap.), orange (starter assistant device to "HERM" on cap.)

Existing wiring schematic for AC Unit:

NEW MOTOR AND CAPACITOR INFO:

New Capacitor (two heads, four pins / head):

5.0uF +6%(H) 440VAC/B

SH P2 CAPACITOR EIA-456-A

50/60Hz -40 degrees C / 70 degrees C

INTERNALLY PROTECTED 10000 AFC

New Motor: Emerson - Here are the specs. from the label on the motor.

MODEL K55HXWMS-1280 HP 1/4
VOLT - 208-230
R.P.M - 1075
HZ - 60
AMP 1.5
THERMALLY PROTECTED AUTO
INS CL B 60 degree C AMB MFG. NO. E10 C
AIR OVER CONT CAT NO. 1860 FRAME 48Y

Wiring diagram for new motor:

Note: This diagram excludes the four wires used for fan rotation (orange and yellow wires).

Four Wire Connection:

---------------------White-------------------------------L2
I
208-230 Volt Line
I
--------------------Black--------------------------------L1



------------------- Brown -------------------------------
I
5.0 MFD 370V CAP
T
-----------------Brown/White Stripe -----------------


OPTIONAL 3 WIRE
CONNECTION
BRW/WHT STRIPE-INSULATE

CAP.
Brown -------------O

White--------------O----------L2

Black- L1

I would greatly appreciate any advise you could provide...thank you in advance. :thumbsup:

 

[Marty S.]

Black where the old black went, white where the purple was and both browns to the new capacitor. Where the old brown was on the capacitor will be left empty.

Pull the disconnect to the AC before doing anything then push in the contactor. That will discharge the capacitor.

 

[twags]

Thanks for the reply Marty!!! Just a few follow up questions if you don't mind.

I included two new pictures ("Top of Old Capacitor" current wiring to cap. & "Top of New Capacitor" picture of new cap.)

I assume I need to replace the old capacitor (3 heads) with the new capacitor (2 heads). Based on your explanation and the switch out of the old capacitor, would this be correct.

Info you provided:

Black to where black went (T1)
White where Purple was on the cap.
Both Browns to the cap.

For the correct hook up to the capacitor (since new capacitor old has 2 "heads" (see last picture). Can you let me know if this is correct?
HEAD 1 OF THE NEW CAP.
White where purple was - head 1 of the capacitor (coming from motor)
Red - head 1 of the capacitor (coming from T2)
Other Red - head 1 of the capacitor (coming from starter assist.)

HEAD 2 OF THE NEW CAP.
Brown - head 2 of the cap. (coming from motor)
Brown/White Stripe - head 2 of cap (coming from motor)
Yellow - head 2 of cap. (coming from compressor)
Orange - head 2 of cap. (coming from starter assist.)

For discharging the old capacitor, could you please explain a little more about these instructions - "Pull the disconnect to the AC before doing anything then push in the contactor". For example where is the disconnect (is the outside power to the unit?). Where is the contactor located?

Thanks in advance for your time. I think I am really close but still not quite there.
Tim

 

[Marty S.]

Before you get too carried away I can see the old capacitor is bad and needs replaced,the top is bulged. Take care of that first then see if the old fan motor works. If not then repost and I'll walk you through the wiring.

Yes there should be a service disconnect mounted outside to kill the high voltage to the AC. Do NOT mess with any wiring unless the power is off.

 

[Doc Holliday]

Good eye, Marty. OP, that is probably the only problem. A new dual run capacitor to replace that old blown up one might cost you $10 max, no motor needed.

 

[twags]

OK, great...thank you!! I will order a capacitor then check back in and let you know how it goes.

 

[twags]

Marty, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!! I replaced the run capacitor and the fan motor WORKS!! I am all up and running now - just in time for this heat wave! Thanks again - I REALLY appreciate your response.

Tim.

 

[dmkomin]

Just to let you know that you guys have hopefully helped someone else who wasn't involved in the orginal problem! My condenser fan started acting up so I'm looking for motors. Found this site and thanks to the awesome problem description & photos, I knew I had the same equipment and hopefully the same problem (capacitor). Thanks ahead of time to all who posted info.

Now I just have to order that capacitor. Any recommended sites?

Dana

 

[edouble]

Thanks for the capacitor info!! I'm 99% certain that is my problem.

Now I just have to find a place to buy a replacement.
I found this site that is pretty informative on how to replace the capacitor.
http://www.ronstultz.com/knowledge/... the Run Capacitor in the Compressor Unit.htm

 

[Marty S.]

Just to let you know that you guys have hopefully helped someone else who wasn't involved in the orginal problem! My condenser fan started acting up so I'm looking for motors. Found this site and thanks to the awesome problem description & photos, I knew I had the same equipment and hopefully the same problem (capacitor). Thanks ahead of time to all who posted info.

Now I just have to order that capacitor. Any recommended sites?

Dana

I would recommend buying the capacitor from a local store like graigers, an electric motor repair shop or one of the HVAC shops instead of ordering over the net. Capacitors are cheap so no sense paying shipping and if it fails within a year instant replacement is better then waiting for days.

 

[edouble]

Picked up capacitor at Graingers this morning for $18. Spent 5 minutes installing the new one, and now...... AC :thumbsup:

thanks!!

 

[dmkomin]

Got a capacitor today and the AC is back up and running! THANK YOU

 

[Kevin DuBose]

Returned home from work to a very hot house. I noticed that while I did have air blowing through the vents, the air was NOT cold. First thing I did was step outside to check the outside unit and immediately noticed the the fan was not spinning. First thing I did was to take a look at the capacitor, which revealed an extensive amount or corrosion. So, I pulled it, bought a new one and installed it. Turn the thermostat on and the fan started spinning like a top. Well my relief was short-lived when approx. 7 hours later the trailer began to warm-up. I stepped outside and noticed the fan had quit spinning. I then turned the A/C off. After about 2 hours of air being turned off, I turned it back on and the fan began to spin. Well, after spinning approx. 3 minutes the fan stop again. I would greatly appreciate any and all insight on this matter. Thank you for your time,

Kevin DuBose

 

[Master of Cold]

Returned home from work to a very hot house. I noticed that while I did have air blowing through the vents, the air was NOT cold. First thing I did was step outside to check the outside unit and immediately noticed the the fan was not spinning. First thing I did was to take a look at the capacitor, which revealed an extensive amount or corrosion. So, I pulled it, bought a new one and installed it. Turn the thermostat on and the fan started spinning like a top. Well my relief was short-lived when approx. 7 hours later the trailer began to warm-up. I stepped outside and noticed the fan had quit spinning. I then turned the A/C off. After about 2 hours of air being turned off, I turned it back on and the fan began to spin. Well, after spinning approx. 3 minutes the fan stop again. I would greatly appreciate any and all insight on this matter. Thank you for your time,

Kevin DuBose

Time for a new fan motor

 

[StahlMaster]

Time for a new fan motor

Could it be a thermal cut off issue?

D

 

[Kevin DuBose]

The motor still works... It'll run for 15 minutes or so and stop. Very well could be a thermal cutoff issue!

 

[Miester]

This set up almost worked for me, but, I fried my new motor trying. I do not have a start assist circuit on my unit. I have a goodman ck24-1b AC unit. I bought the Emerson universal fan motor. I'm swapping out my 3wire motor for the 5 wire universal. Here is what worked for me...

Capasitor: Herm terminal - yellow wire from compressor
Fan terminal - only Brown wire from fan motor
C terminal - Red wire from T2 on contactor and Brown/White wire from fan motor

Fan: Brown going to Capisator fan terminal
white going to T2 terminal (the one with the red wires) on contactor
Red going to T1 terminal (the one with all the black wires) on contactor
Brown/White going to C terminal on Capasitor
Black wire just wrap up with electrical tape and not used since my A/C uses 1/6 (Low) hp speed

 

[ReVive]

I have the same condenser item, same replacement scenario (3-wire original, 4-wire new from Grainger), but my question is how to wire the new motor using the original 3 contactor capacitor. Based on physical appearance, the capacitor doesn't require replacing and I'm not comfortable enough with the basic wiring diagram on the new motor to just connect everything and hope for the best.

That being said, where do I connect the 4 wires (brown, brown/white, black and purple) using the original cap?

Thank you everyone for taking so much time to help through this forum!

 

[scottmcd9999]

You should always replace the capacitor when replacing the motor. Just because a capacitor "looks" okay doesn't mean it is.

A 4 wire motor should have the two Brown wires connected to the Capacitor (and NOTHING else to that cap), and the Black and Purple wires are connected to line voltage. If you could take some pics we could perhaps help you sort this out.

 

[pauleyman]

I'm having a similar problem. I have a 3 wire motor going to a dual run capacitor but the new motor I just picked up from Grainger has more wires. Do I need an additional cap? I replaced my dual run capacitor about 6 weeks ago but again the fan isn't running. I picked up another cap and a new motor this time. They also did not have the exact 1/8hp motor I asked for and sold me a 1/6hp. Is that a problem?