[jeffa123]

I'm looking for ideas on how to repair the panels on an enclosed patio. The patio is in pretty good shape except for three panels. Note: this damage is the result of the previous owner not cleaning out the down-spouts. This caused the rain to run down the side of the patio and damaged the panels.

It looks like the panels were made and inserted in the aluminum frame then the aluminum frame is riveted together. The panel sits in an aluminum channel that keeps it in place.

My major desire is to keep the rain out. Does anyone sell sheet Vinyl? I see Vinyl sold in strips but I think I need sheet vinyl big enough to cover each opening, and then I would caulk it and use plywood to back the sheet Vinyl and support it.

I hoped that I could install inside paneling back into the groove on the inside. But I don't see how I could install the paneling back into the channel. I think I would need to attach the inside paneling with screws. This is not going to look very professional.

Anyone have and experience with this or how I might fix this.
Thanks for your help.

 

[joecaption]

Got a real mess there.
No way would that system ever have worked out.
Being installed right on grade it was 100% sure going to be leaking under the wall.

 

[jeffa123]

The average rainfall for the area is 13 inches. The concrete slopes away from the patio, so the rain hasn't really flowed into the patio. The main issue now is the splash of the rain when it hits the concrete.

 

[oodssoo]

It's a mess nonetheless. However, it remains a possible task. The question is really "HOW?!"

IMHO, you could rig something up like the way you describe, but I would stay away from vinyl. Going with, say, a cement siding would look better than those vinyl stuff. Of course, the budget may limit on what material you could get...

Secondly, you could also frame it out with 2x's and install your sheathing and (vinyl or cement) siding to that on the outside, while insulation (R13 batt), drywall/wood paneling, trim, and paint on the inside.

my 2 cents.

 

[brockmiera]

What size is that bottom track? 2" ? Maybe using some light gauge 2" hat channel to frame it and then you can finish with metal sheeting, vinyl siding, whatever.

 

[Duckweather]

That looks very similar to steel framing studs and track. are there drain holes in the outside? They look wide enough to accept an outside and inside layer with room for a frame between. Most of the cement fiber companies make 4' x 8' panels that might do the outside without any joints. I wonder what kept the splash water out of that track in the first place.

 

[joed]

If you google "clad styrofoam" many products will come up including aluminum clad and concrete based material cladding.

 

[joecaption]

Cement based siding will not work, it can not be that close to the ground and with that track it would be in constant contact from the leaks.

 

[carpdad]

Are the window tracks removable? Then you can make full size panels.
If not, and if you can find track that'll fit into the frame, borrow an idea from vinyl windows that have adjustable upper track? It was a U channel that fit over the window frame but not fastened, so that it could cover larger opening.
Vinyl sheets can be found at homedepot as panelling. You may be able to use foam insulation sheets as middle filler.

 

[jagans]

Check out laminators Inc. They have an omega-ply panel that has a Poly-Olefin core that is waterproof.

 

[Ddjames]

Hi Jeff, I have the exact problem. Could be photos of my enclosed patio. How did you fix it?

 

[jeffa123]

Hi Ddjames, Welcome to DIY Chatroom.

I didn't think anyone was interested, so I didn't follow-up. I will explain what I did to solve the problem, however that house is now rented so I'm not able to include photos at this time.

This wasn't complicated to repair, it was just time consuming.

1. These panels were damaged because the former owners never cleaned out he rain gutters. So the rain overfilled the rain-gutters and water ran down the panels. also, splashed against the panels, and over time warped and ruined the panels. I'm not fond of the design with the patio base setting flat on the concrete pad, but the concrete pad slopes away from the patio, so I decided to repair the panels.

2. I decided to use L.P. Smartside, siding panels 3/8 in. x 4 x 8. Sold at Home Depot for the outside repair.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/SmartSid...-315-in-x-48-56-in-x-95-87-in-27874/100055901

I liked the wood textured look, but initially I didn't like the 8 inch vertical groove spacing. I wanted a solid wood textured look. But, once I started, I found that the 8 inch vertical groove was essential to hide the cut I would have in each panel. I prefer the grooved panel look now. One advantage of these panels is that they have a lip next to groove on the side, that can be overlapped with the next panel to hide any joints.

3. The old panels were installed when the metal framing was put together. So here is how I installed the new panels.

A. I measured the height of the inside of the metal frame. Then transfer that measurement to the Smartside panel, and cut with a circular saw. (Grooves run up and down). I think the measurements was 2 feet tall. So after the cut, the section I was working with was 2 by 4 feet wide. If your measurements are the same as mine you can do four panels per Smartside panel.

B. Next cut the panel in half, so the panel is now 2 feet wide. This is the only way you will get the new panel inside the metal frame. The Smartside panels are designed to overlap to hide the seems. So you will overlap the outside seems of the Smartside panel (you just cut) in the center of your metal frame. This will completely hide the seem.

C. You will need to trim the sides so the they fit in the metal frame. Do not trim the overlapping seem. Trim the outside sections of the panel. They should be flush with the inside of the metal interior frame, just like the original panel.

D. You will also need to trim the top of the panel. The idea here is to trim only what you need to in order to get the panel into the metal frame. Put the panel in from the inside on the room and in the center on the metal frame at an angle, When your done, the side panels will be flush against the outer part of the metal frame. The top, bottom part will have a small gap. The metal frame that I had, actually had a small lip 1/2 inch below the opening on the inside of the frame. I rested the panels on this lip while putting these together.

E. I then used some old 2x4 to hold the panels in place. I used a table saw for this. You could use 2x2's or 2x3's they just need to be dry, so they won't shrink. Basically, I ripped the height of the studs so that they would only extended 5/8 inch above and around the inside of the metal frame (this was done so the inside plywood could be attached). Next I cut two sections for the side and two sections for the top and bottom. I trimmed the width of these sections so that they would tightly fit in the metal frame and hold the outside panels in place. These need to be trimmed slowly and a few times until find the right width. Then I did a test run and installed the panels and wood frame. The frame should be lightly tapped in place with a hammer.

F. If this look good and is tight and the exterior panels look good. The next step is to decide what you want to do with the interior panels. I was able to re-use my old interior panels, however, you could replace with new paneling if you like. I wanted my panels to be flush with the metal frame like before, so a traced the interior of the wood around the metal frame with a pencil and used the table saw to trim the appropriate depth so I can re-install the interior panels flush with the metal frame.

G. In the final step I removed the wood frame (you might want to mark for replacement - left, right, top, bottom) and panels. The wood frame should be very tight. I had to drill a screw into each one so that I would be able to pull them back out of the frame. To assemble I used a light coat of Sitka sealer around the exterior siding, where it meets against the metal frame, and where the joint meets in the middle of the siding (the overlap). I then installed the wood frame in the metal that secures the siding. I did not mention before, but I also cut a board to use where the siding overlaps in the middle of the panel. I used about four small screws on each side to secure the joint. Eight total screws, These were counter sunk and then hidden The board was the same depth as the wood frame. This way the interior panel could also be attached to it.

Then I painted the siding with two coats of the best exterior paint I could find. So far these have been installed for about two years and seem to be working fine. Also, you cannot tell that they have be replaced, Once I started, I replaced all of the lower panels, the original ones seemed very cheap. Also, this did not cost much, it just took some time. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. I hope this was helpful and not to confusing.

 

[fortunerestore]

I had similar situation. I used thin sheet of fiberglass for the purpose of waterproofing. It worked quite well. Clad styrofoam is also a good idea in case you want to make your exterior look better and are not looking for a quick fix.

 

[CanteringHooves]

Hi Ddjames, Welcome to DIY Chatroom.

I didn't think anyone was interested, so I didn't follow-up. I will explain what I did to solve the problem, however that house is now rented so I'm not able to include photos at this time.

This wasn't complicated to repair, it was just time consuming.

1. These panels were damaged because the former owners never cleaned out he rain gutters. So the rain overfilled the rain-gutters and water ran down the panels. also, splashed against the panels, and over time warped and ruined the panels. I'm not fond of the design with the patio base setting flat on the concrete pad, but the concrete pad slopes away from the patio, so I decided to repair the panels.

2. I decided to use L.P. Smartside, siding panels 3/8 in. x 4 x 8. Sold at Home Depot for the outside repair.
LP SmartSide SmartSide 48 in. x 96 in. Strand Panel Siding-27874 - The Home Depot

I liked the wood textured look, but initially I didn't like the 8 inch vertical groove spacing. I wanted a solid wood textured look. But, once I started, I found that the 8 inch vertical groove was essential to hide the cut I would have in each panel. I prefer the grooved panel look now. One advantage of these panels is that they have a lip next to groove on the side, that can be overlapped with the next panel to hide any joints.

3. The old panels were installed when the metal framing was put together. So here is how I installed the new panels.

A. I measured the height of the inside of the metal frame. Then transfer that measurement to the Smartside panel, and cut with a circular saw. (Grooves run up and down). I think the measurements was 2 feet tall. So after the cut, the section I was working with was 2 by 4 feet wide. If your measurements are the same as mine you can do four panels per Smartside panel.

B. Next cut the panel in half, so the panel is now 2 feet wide. This is the only way you will get the new panel inside the metal frame. The Smartside panels are designed to overlap to hide the seems. So you will overlap the outside seems of the Smartside panel (you just cut) in the center of your metal frame. This will completely hide the seem.

C. You will need to trim the sides so the they fit in the metal frame. Do not trim the overlapping seem. Trim the outside sections of the panel. They should be flush with the inside of the metal interior frame, just like the original panel.

D. You will also need to trim the top of the panel. The idea here is to trim only what you need to in order to get the panel into the metal frame. Put the panel in from the inside on the room and in the center on the metal frame at an angle, When your done, the side panels will be flush against the outer part of the metal frame. The top, bottom part will have a small gap. The metal frame that I had, actually had a small lip 1/2 inch below the opening on the inside of the frame. I rested the panels on this lip while putting these together.

E. I then used some old 2x4 to hold the panels in place. I used a table saw for this. You could use 2x2's or 2x3's they just need to be dry, so they won't shrink. Basically, I ripped the height of the studs so that they would only extended 5/8 inch above and around the inside of the metal frame (this was done so the inside plywood could be attached). Next I cut two sections for the side and two sections for the top and bottom. I trimmed the width of these sections so that they would tightly fit in the metal frame and hold the outside panels in place. These need to be trimmed slowly and a few times until find the right width. Then I did a test run and installed the panels and wood frame. The frame should be lightly tapped in place with a hammer.

F. If this look good and is tight and the exterior panels look good. The next step is to decide what you want to do with the interior panels. I was able to re-use my old interior panels, however, you could replace with new paneling if you like. I wanted my panels to be flush with the metal frame like before, so a traced the interior of the wood around the metal frame with a pencil and used the table saw to trim the appropriate depth so I can re-install the interior panels flush with the metal frame.

G. In the final step I removed the wood frame (you might want to mark for replacement - left, right, top, bottom) and panels. The wood frame should be very tight. I had to drill a screw into each one so that I would be able to pull them back out of the frame. To assemble I used a light coat of Sitka sealer around the exterior siding, where it meets against the metal frame, and where the joint meets in the middle of the siding (the overlap). I then installed the wood frame in the metal that secures the siding. I did not mention before, but I also cut a board to use where the siding overlaps in the middle of the panel. I used about four small screws on each side to secure the joint. Eight total screws, These were counter sunk and then hidden The board was the same depth as the wood frame. This way the interior panel could also be attached to it.

Then I painted the siding with two coats of the best exterior paint I could find. So far these have been installed for about two years and seem to be working fine. Also, you cannot tell that they have be replaced, Once I started, I replaced all of the lower panels, the original ones seemed very cheap. Also, this did not cost much, it just took some time. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. I hope this was helpful and not to confusing.
[/QUOT

Hi Ddjames, Welcome to DIY Chatroom.

I didn't think anyone was interested, so I didn't follow-up. I will explain what I did to solve the problem, however that house is now rented so I'm not able to include photos at this time.

This wasn't complicated to repair, it was just time consuming.

1. These panels were damaged because the former owners never cleaned out he rain gutters. So the rain overfilled the rain-gutters and water ran down the panels. also, splashed against the panels, and over time warped and ruined the panels. I'm not fond of the design with the patio base setting flat on the concrete pad, but the concrete pad slopes away from the patio, so I decided to repair the panels.

2. I decided to use L.P. Smartside, siding panels 3/8 in. x 4 x 8. Sold at Home Depot for the outside repair.
LP SmartSide SmartSide 48 in. x 96 in. Strand Panel Siding-27874 - The Home Depot

I liked the wood textured look, but initially I didn't like the 8 inch vertical groove spacing. I wanted a solid wood textured look. But, once I started, I found that the 8 inch vertical groove was essential to hide the cut I would have in each panel. I prefer the grooved panel look now. One advantage of these panels is that they have a lip next to groove on the side, that can be overlapped with the next panel to hide any joints.

3. The old panels were installed when the metal framing was put together. So here is how I installed the new panels.

A. I measured the height of the inside of the metal frame. Then transfer that measurement to the Smartside panel, and cut with a circular saw. (Grooves run up and down). I think the measurements was 2 feet tall. So after the cut, the section I was working with was 2 by 4 feet wide. If your measurements are the same as mine you can do four panels per Smartside panel.

B. Next cut the panel in half, so the panel is now 2 feet wide. This is the only way you will get the new panel inside the metal frame. The Smartside panels are designed to overlap to hide the seems. So you will overlap the outside seems of the Smartside panel (you just cut) in the center of your metal frame. This will completely hide the seem.

C. You will need to trim the sides so the they fit in the metal frame. Do not trim the overlapping seem. Trim the outside sections of the panel. They should be flush with the inside of the metal interior frame, just like the original panel.

D. You will also need to trim the top of the panel. The idea here is to trim only what you need to in order to get the panel into the metal frame. Put the panel in from the inside on the room and in the center on the metal frame at an angle, When your done, the side panels will be flush against the outer part of the metal frame. The top, bottom part will have a small gap. The metal frame that I had, actually had a small lip 1/2 inch below the opening on the inside of the frame. I rested the panels on this lip while putting these together.

E. I then used some old 2x4 to hold the panels in place. I used a table saw for this. You could use 2x2's or 2x3's they just need to be dry, so they won't shrink. Basically, I ripped the height of the studs so that they would only extended 5/8 inch above and around the inside of the metal frame (this was done so the inside plywood could be attached). Next I cut two sections for the side and two sections for the top and bottom. I trimmed the width of these sections so that they would tightly fit in the metal frame and hold the outside panels in place. These need to be trimmed slowly and a few times until find the right width. Then I did a test run and installed the panels and wood frame. The frame should be lightly tapped in place with a hammer.

F. If this look good and is tight and the exterior panels look good. The next step is to decide what you want to do with the interior panels. I was able to re-use my old interior panels, however, you could replace with new paneling if you like. I wanted my panels to be flush with the metal frame like before, so a traced the interior of the wood around the metal frame with a pencil and used the table saw to trim the appropriate depth so I can re-install the interior panels flush with the metal frame.

G. In the final step I removed the wood frame (you might want to mark for replacement - left, right, top, bottom) and panels. The wood frame should be very tight. I had to drill a screw into each one so that I would be able to pull them back out of the frame. To assemble I used a light coat of Sitka sealer around the exterior siding, where it meets against the metal frame, and where the joint meets in the middle of the siding (the overlap). I then installed the wood frame in the metal that secures the siding. I did not mention before, but I also cut a board to use where the siding overlaps in the middle of the panel. I used about four small screws on each side to secure the joint. Eight total screws, These were counter sunk and then hidden The board was the same depth as the wood frame. This way the interior panel could also be attached to it.

Then I painted the siding with two coats of the best exterior paint I could find. So far these have been installed for about two years and seem to be working fine. Also, you cannot tell that they have be replaced, Once I started, I replaced all of the lower panels, the original ones seemed very cheap. Also, this did not cost much, it just took some time. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. I hope this was helpful and not to confusing.

Wow! This is most likely what I need to do and am totally overwhelmed with the idea of it. I really like the smart side paneling and have used it on other projects around our farm but this dang sunroom has left me scratching my head about those wall panels that have totally been ruined by some poor waterproofing by previous owners.
If I am reading this right you were able to get it flush inside and out?
Also, did you fill the C-channel with the wood then attach the siding to that?
Thank you for such a detailed write up. I am going to have to put some thought into how to make that work here because short of raking the room apart I think this is a solid option.