[vsheetz]

I have never removed or installed a tub before, so please bear with me...

I am enbarking on a remodel of a typical 5x10 bathroom with an alcove shirted tub across the end of the room. There is an adjacent bathroom with shower. The tub in this bathroom and the shower of the adjacent bathroom butt up against the same wall - with the plumbing for both in that wall. Both the adjacent shower walls and the tub surround are tiled. So there is no access panel...

How do I disconnect the tub to remove it? :huh:
How do I reconnect the new replacement tub? :huh:

thx!
Vince

 

[DangerMouse]

disassemble Johnny-5....

DM

 

[vsheetz]

disassemble Johnny-5....

DM

Sorry - I do not understand? :huh:

 

[vsheetz]

BTW - single story house on concrete slab foundation...

 

[DangerMouse]

well, since someone put in the shower on the other side, locking up the plumbing in the wall, you'll need to disassemble one or the other unit to get to the plumbing. i guess just remove the tile in tub room and go from there. if either were plastic, it'd make it easier.

DM

 

[InPhase277]

Sometimes, you just gotta smash a tub to pieces to get it out. Try a sledge hammer.

 

[vsheetz]

Sometimes, you just gotta smash a tub to pieces to get it out. Try a sledge hammer.

Yeah, we can get it out and disconnected by breaking it up - but how do I get the new tub installed and reconnected?

 

[Jefftheplumber]

If you are on a slab you must install either a temp access through side wall and then patch it or install access panel. Making the connection through the side of the tub makes it very difficult to install the tub waste and overflow. You can, if you measure exactly, set up the Tw&o before you slide the tub into place and then screw the shoe strainer into place. That may take several trys to get it just right. Just a little patience.

 

[vsheetz]

Doing it from the side sounds like a pain. And that is a exterior wall to open up.

Sounds like it might be easier to open a hole in the shower stall on the opposite side from the tub, install the plumbing for the tub, then repair the shower wall. The shower is tiled with those very common 4x4 white tiles. But this does not create a longer term access if ever needed.

If it were not in a slab, it would probably be best and actually easiest to redo the plumbing and reverse the tub. The wall at the foot of the tub is a dry-walled wall in a bedroom where I could easily install a access hatch.

Thoughts on these options?

Thx!
Vince

 

[al's sewer]

Doing it from the side sounds like a pain. And that is a exterior wall to open up.

Sounds like it might be easier to open a hole in the shower stall on the opposite side from the tub, install the plumbing for the tub, then repair the shower wall. The shower is tiled with those very common 4x4 white tiles. But this does not create a longer term access if ever needed.

If it were not in a slab, it would probably be best and actually easiest to redo the plumbing and reverse the tub. The wall at the foot of the tub is a dry-walled wall in a bedroom where I could easily install a access hatch.

Thoughts on these options?

Thx!
Vince

are you replacing the tub or just the plumbing fixtures?? A picture would help. If you are replacing the tub your right it will be a pain will require alot of demotition. If you are just replacing the fixtures and you say the tub is skirted you should be able to access everything by removing the skirt.

 

[wrangler]

First, you need a 'castle wrench' to remove the tub drain. You can purchase this from any hardware store. Some drains are seized up and take extra persuasion to remove. On more stubborn drains I have even had to slice it with a reciprocating saw and finish with hammer and chisel. Depending on the style, the overflow can be disconnected by removing the screws, though there are a few very older ones where the overflow cap actually is threaded on to tub via a connector that is attached to the overflow pipe.
Removing the tub can now ne done. If it is cast iron, bust it up with a sledge into smaller, manageable pieces using proper safety gear ( safety glasses, heavy gloves, boots, mask) as shards of the porcelain will fly every where. If steel, you can cut into 2 or 3 pieces with the reciprocating saw.
Installing removing some of the existing tiles so that you can tilt the new tub into the alcove. If it has an attached skirt, you will probably have to go as high as 40" on the back side to accomodate the skirt, as well as 1-2 rows arounf the rest of the tub. This sometimes involves notching a stud that may interfere with the skirt as it lowers down. Not all tubs are the same, so you may need to install new drain connections. with careful measuring, you can get pretty close to setting it up prior to fitting the tub. If you are replacing the valve as well, you will need to remove tile on the plumbing wall as well. This will also make it easier to adjust your drain connections after the tub is in place.
After the tub is in place and faily close to aligned with the drain connections, you can install the new overflow cover and install the drain into the tub 'shoe' with your castle wrench. Don't forget to slip the rubber gasket through the drain hole and ontop of the tub shoe before screwing the drain in.