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How to paint kitchen cabinets?

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J

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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm gonna be painting my cabinets white, but am not really sure how to paint them. Spray or brush them? I don't have a sprayer, but can rent one.

Here's a pic of the style though mine have slightly more detailed work.



I also have crown moulding above them that would get painted and they are very detailed as well. Lots of curves, nooks and crannies is what I mean.

The cabinet frames are made from veneered plywood and the drawer faces and cabinet doors are made from real wood that seems to have been stained and maybe glazed. They are pretty glossy. Looks like there's a glossy protective coat on them.


So how can I get good results? Recommendations on paint/primer?

Thanks!!!
 
Gymschu

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#2 ·
This topic comes up quite regularly on here. If you do a "search" you will find lots of info.

The simplified version of the process goes something like this: Number all your doors & drawers before removing them. Remove all the doors and remove all the hardware. It's also handy to mark all the hinges so you put the same exact hinge in the same exact spot when finished.

Clean and degrease. Then scuff sand. Remove dust. Prime with a quality primer that sticks to glossy surfaces. Zinsser 123 is a good choice. After priming lightly sand again. Remove all dust with tack cloths or a vacuum. Apply your first coat. Depending on your skill level, you can brush and/or roll. I like SW's Proclassic Waterborne for cabinet painting. After the first coat dries, I like to put everything back on before applying the 2nd coat. You usually mark up the surface a bit when reinstalling them so that's the reason for doing the 2nd coat after installation.

I don't spray much, so I will leave any spraying tips to someone that sprays regularly.
 
J

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Gymschu said:
This topic comes up quite regularly on here. If you do a "search" you will find lots of info.
Click to expand...
My mistake! I should have done that first.


Thanks for the rest of the info and recommendation you posted! It seems like the rustoleum cabinet transformation stuff gets mentioned quite a bunch and has good reviews around the web. I may opt for that. I wish they had samples at the local store so I can really see what kind of finish and color I can expect.
 
K

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#4 ·
Keep in mind that the retail price for Proclassic runs $64.99-$70.99 a gallon depending on the gloss. It is also not something that gets discounted during the 30-40% sales because it isn't a retail paint line. That price is pretty high when you consider that with a little effort you can buy Cabinet Coat for $50. It is a good product, just kinda pricey for retail customers.
 
T

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#5 ·
All that detail spraying would be the best choice, however if you have no experience with spraying it might not be a good place to start. Doing all that detail with a brush is not going to be easy. Here I an going to disagree with Schu a little. Pro Classic is my go to trim paint but one drawback is the quick set-up time which might create a problem working the details. Breakthrough is a really good paint for cabinets but again has a really fast dry time.

Ben Moore Advance is a very good paint that dries to very hard finish and has a slow dry time so you have time to work with it some.
 
Gymschu

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As Klaatu pointed out........ProClassic is expensive and it can be difficult to use. It tends to sag and run due to its leveling properties. The Rustoleum Transformations is a very good product. Another one to consider is PPG's Breakthrough.

When painting your doors, always do one side first, let that dry, flip them, and do the other side. Keeping them laying flat will reduce your chance of runs and allows the paint to level out.
 
T

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#7 ·
Hey Schu look at the time on our post. LOL

One more tip John when you remove the hardware and hinges have some plastic bags handy and put the hardware from each door in it's own bag and number it the same as the door. Makes putting them back together a lot easier.
 
blackjack

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#8 ·
Looks like you already have lots of tips and product info. The only thing i'd add is to do the back sides first, dry them then do the sides and fronts. You'll likely have much more success if they are laid flat so that any self leveling product (or any product for that matter) doesn't run. At least not as much.

The rustoleum product you mentioned is pretty good imo and easy to work with. I've only used it once and was pretty impressed with it. The down side is that if you run short on stain you're forced to buy another kit. And it will flash (create a shiny spot) if you touch up the clear coat as the instructions call for only one coat of clear. Which is fine. Just be thorough and follow the instructions.
I have no idea how well it will hold up over time. Good luck. You've got your work cut out for you.
And as a diy with no spray experience i'm with whomever suggested that you not make this level of work your first time as cabinets can be tricky and a lot of work to fix if (and when) you end up with a less than desirable result. :)
Happy painting!
 
J

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the help so far. I've been going back and reading the tons of posts on the topic and have decided not to go with rustoleum as it seems pricy for what it is. I think it's just premium paint marketed for cabinets which makes the price tag go up. But not like I really know for sure.

I'm going to go with BM Advance or SW Pro Classic. From what I can see it seems to be just a personal preference and they both have mostly high ratings among painters with a few bad mixed in.

1. For me, a beginner that is going to hand roll/brush, which one would be more workable? I think the advance had the longer open time, but not sure.

2. Any brush and roller recommendations?

3. Just pretty thin coats right? My panels are detailed so I'm hoping I won't get any pooling or runs with all the variation in nooks and crannies.

I'm off to the paint store in just a little bit. I'm excited and nervous. Going to practice on some scrap wood then the backside of the doors for the cabinet in the bathroom before I even think about doing the kitchen.
 
Gymschu

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#11 ·
Buy a 4 inch Whizz mini roller. It will become your best friend on a project like this. It holds lots of paint, is easy to manage, and allows you to put paint on quickly before it sets up. Then, depending on the look you are after, use your brush to brush through the texture left by the roller. Of course, if you don't mind the orange peel type stipple left by the roller, you can leave it without back brushing. I like to back brush. Then when the paint levels out as it dries, you get that nice, glossy, glass-like finish.

Pro classic and Advance set up fast, really fast so you don't want to take any 5 minute breaks when you start on a door. After finishing a door, check it after a few minutes to catch any runs or sags and gently brush them out. Move quickly and efficiently. As for brushes, a good Purdy or Wooster 2 1/2 inch sash brush will do nicely.
 

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J

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Gymschu said:
Buy a 4 inch Whizz mini roller.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that. I've seen you mention that quite a bit to others in my situation. Correct me if I am wrong, but Whizz is the brand right? I think they sell different roller materials. Which material should I get Nap, foam etc..

Never bought the brand though so I may be mistaken.
thanks
 
T

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For cabs I would suggest a small nap microfiber and the Advance will give you a lot more working time (16 hour recoat) and yes thin coats. Wether P/C or advance they are prone to runs and sagging but both have excellent leveling qualities, just keep an eye behind you.

And yes whizz is the brand name and comes in different sizes a 4" would probably work best.
 
J

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for all the tips. I decided to go with Insl-X Cabinet Coat (made by Benjamin Moore) and a Wagner 590 HVLP sprayer. After I practiced on the backside of the cabinet doors in the bathroom and could not avoid brush marks or roller marks, I went to get the sprayer. It might not be the best sprayer, but it works for me and gets me way better results that brushing/rolling (probably from my technique). I tried adding floetrol too, but still couldn't get it right, although it may have been the previous roller and brush marks showing through due to inadequate sanding.

I also made a drying rack out of 5 2x4s, some scrap 1x4 and 100 ft of 1/2 schedule 40 pvc. Total spent ~$40. I used a 1 inch spade bit for all the holes which are spaced 3 inches apart starting 6 inches from the bottom. This came about after realizing that I was going to have to do my doors in 3 batches due to space, and I didn't have painters pyramids nor would they be ideal in my situation. Here's some pics of my set up. I paint in the garage on a little table I had. There is a lazy susan with a cardboard box on it so I can easily grab the freshly painted piece from underneath. I then take it inside (where it is warmer) to dry on the rack.

And also, I numbered the doors in the hinge hole and covered with tape as shown in the pictures. But I have some without the holes so I just stuck them in the end of the pvc since they were falling off when stuck on the wood or the door itself. That's what the blue paper is.

Overall they are coming out nicely.




 
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