[bryanvann]

Hey Folks,

I'm trying to build a small "secret room" for the kids in our attic that I'll finish with flooring/insulation/drywall/etc. As you can see from the attachment there's a lot of cross bracing in the attic obstructing the area. Wanted to check here about which bracing I could safely move to one side or the other to create more open space up there.

I've labelled the various boards in the picture and have a few questions:
- Can I shift (C) down closer to (A)?
- Similar for (E) though it looks like the HVAC people already cut that brace, so was going to re-add it but shifted in the direction of (B)
- I'm wondering if I can shift (H) in the opposite direction of (D) 4-6' or so.
- I was going to leave D in place and just have it be a pillar in the room.
- (A) and (B) are attached to different spots on the bottom, not sure why. Would be great to move or remove (A) but not sure how.

Any other ideas about how to safely open the space up a bit? Worst case I just leave all the beams exposed in the room, but would be nice to at least shift a few of them to open up the space.

 

[3onthetree]

If A&B are attached to an exterior wall, then you need those in some fashion. Can't tell if the main roof goes all the way down to the ceiling joists or if there are more walls like what A&B is holding, but without a ridge beam or rafter ties then D&H is also helping in some fashion too. F&G looks like a different angle than the rafters, more like a binder to connect across purlins C&E. So not sure what those are doing.

Maybe a larger overall pic would help. It is possible to move some of those a bit over here and there, much more info is needed.

 

[Nealtw]

Is this the shape of the roof?

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,...... Where is this house,..??..??

Depending on that answer, I think ya need alot more, 'n better insulation,.....

'n dependin' on the same answer, the kids will bake like cookies in the summer, 'n freeze like popsicles in the winter,....

 

[HotRodx10]

You can get alot of speculation and guesses from people eyeballing the pictures, but if you want the right answers, you're going to need an onsite evaluation by a structural engineer. The entire load path, from the roof to the ceiling, through the load bearing beams or walls, to the foundation, should be evaluated by someone who knows the expected loading for your area.

 

[bryanvann]

Will try to answer the questions here:
Nealtw - yes that's exactly the shape of the roof
3onthetree - I'll upload more pics later. (F) and (G) I believe are strongbacks which the purlin braces (c) and (e) are attached to.
Bondo - this is LA on the coast so weather isn't too much of a concern. 🙂
Hotrodx10 - yeah I figured anything significant would require a structural engineer, but if there are easy things like moving the purlin braces a few feet and compensating by overengineering other areas was hoping to avoid it.

Thanks all!

 

[carpdad]

I don't think there's much that can be relocated.
Above E, at least those rafters overlap, meaning that, and maybe others, are not one piece lumbers. So F and G are load bearing and their supports, purlins, example.
Ridge is a board, not a beam. So D and H are load bearing in part, esp because rafters may not be one piece. The roof was built in pieces, like a truss, so you can't move them. As load bearing and maybe as braces, you can't change the angles also.
If insulating the rafters, the rafters are not deep enough to install enough insulation. Roof deck also need some venting, min 1.5" with baffles, soffit and ridge vents for passive venting to prevent moisture problems. You don't want insulation to touch the roof deck and prevent air circulation there. The space WILL need air conditioning to be useful.

 

[Nealtw]

I agree, it is not likely cost effective to have an engineer say no.

 

[cinderill]

I’m considering a similar project. Maybe the original poster can share his results or if he gave up the idea?

 

[Nealtw]

I’m considering a similar project. Maybe the original poster can share his results or if he gave up the idea?

Can you post pictures of the attic. Sometimes no is the obvious answer and we can get to that quickly and some times it is an easy yes. But even with a yes from here an engineer should be looking at it.

 

[cinderill]

My dad was a construction inspector before he retired. I sent him some pics thinking all I’d need to do is move some of the angled supports. I neglected to notice the much larger issue. I have 2x4 skeleton not actual floor joists. It’s possible my “attic” was something done by the previous owners and it’s not actually supposed to support any weight. The 2x4s appear 16 inches apart, 10 feet long with 2x4s running perpendicular every 10 feet. The angled support 2x4s creating a v shape are at 10 foot mark and attatch to the rafters supporting the roof. I may bag the whole idea unless my dad has some ideas for me.

 

[Nealtw]

My dad was a construction inspector before he retired. I sent him some pics thinking all I’d need to do is move some of the angled supports. I neglected to notice the much larger issue. I have 2x4 skeleton not actual floor joists. It’s possible my “attic” was something done by the previous owners and it’s not actually supposed to support any weight. The 2x4s appear 16 inches apart, 10 feet long with 2x4s running perpendicular every 10 feet. The angled support 2x4s creating a v shape are at 10 foot mark and attatch to the rafters supporting the roof. I may bag the whole idea unless my dad has some ideas for me.

Sounds like you have trusses and if yes the answer is no. They come in many designs but they are not to be messed with.