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· Restoration professional
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

Drip cap rotted on some windows. Dimensions are like shown below, but larger: 1-1/8" tall, and 2-1/2" wide. Can I make this by ripping pieces off a 2x10 with a circular saw (2x10 is big so I don't lose my fingers), and if so, what is the best sequence of cuts? Ignore the semicircle for now.
 

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· Banned
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You can buy them precut. You should use Pressure Treated lumber for the new drip edge. When you are ripping them with a table saw, you are required to use a Push stick, so that you do not get your fingers in the way.
 

· Restoration professional
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You can buy them precut. You should use Pressure Treated lumber for the new drip edge. When you are ripping them with a table saw, you are required to use a Push stick, so that you do not get your fingers in the way.
Who has them precut? All I can find is undersized, and local mills say they don't have the knives.
 

· Registered
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Hi,

Drip cap rotted on some windows. Dimensions are like shown below, but larger: 1-1/8" tall, and 2-1/2" wide. Can I make this by ripping pieces off a 2x10 with a circular saw (2x10 is big so I don't lose my fingers), and if so, what is the best sequence of cuts? Ignore the semicircle for now.
Yes, you can make the drip cap with a portable circular saw by using a saw guide that you build. You can even cut the drip first ( roughed out ) then cut it off to width. Or if you have a table saw that will work too.

Your biggest challenge may be locating a piece of lumber worthy of the project. Myself, I would look until I found quarter sawed lumber. You may have to locate recycled lumber to get it.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/reviews/a3602/4283497/
 

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Who has them precut? All I can find is undersized, and local mills say they don't have the knives.
They come in two parts. I used the PVC ones for my garage. Mill shops would not use a knife, because it is mostly just a cut with the blade on a table saw to make that cut on the bottom and same as the angle cut and edge cut at the top, which I would probably just not add and go with the angle cut to the height of the ledge where you attach it.

If you have a local high school with a shop class. See if the shop teacher can have a couple of students do it as a class project. It helps to grease the wheels for the shop teacher, if you find what they are needing for tools, etc, and barter with that.
 

· Property Mgt/Maint
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I would not attempt to make these with a circ saw. A table saw, even a small portable would be a better, safer choice.

The semi circle on the bottom can be a cut with a router and a ball nose bit.

Mat'l - treated lumber will warp and you will not be able to paint it for awhile.
Cypress or cedar would at least give you some natural protection from moisture but you will still be painting every few years.
PVC will be the most expensive upfront but require no maint. for life. (best choice IMO)
 

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The rear upward lip isn't really needed if the slope is sharp enough. It was meant to tuck behind the siding. Metal or modern adhesive flashing and caulk can sub for that.

If you have real lumber yards surely someone stocks a limited quantity of wide 8" beveled cedar siding, the fat side of which can be formed into an acceptable drip cap.
 

· Civil Engineer
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I agree with previous posts about not using a circular saw, too difficult and dangerous. I would cut the shape using a table saw or router table with proper bits, as previously mentioned. I would not use pressure treated lumber, my choice would be mahogany or teak, lasts forever. In a pinch, I might use white oak, but it would be down the preference list. If you plan to cover the drip cap with metal, then cellular PVC is a great choice, easy to machine, inexpensive, rotproof.

I made some copper drip caps for my 1959 colonial, it was a fun project. I built a brake to bend the copper sheet, and got to practice soldering the corners. Pretty simple project, very satisfying, you may want to consider it.
 
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