DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,316 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Imagine I have two rooms connected by a doorway (no door). You start setting hardwood in both of them independently but at the same side. After X rows of hardwood, you will reach the doorway from either room and then you will need to join the two independently started sets of rows.

The problem is, except for of some geometrically perfect house and 100% perfect row setting with no gaps, it is highly unlikely that the row sets from the two room will line up so that, when they do, you can join them with a single piece.

One solution I was thinking of is to introduce some kind of a divided WHICH I WANT TO BE FLUSH WITH THE FLOOR (so no aluminum dividers), which would delimit the two row sets and eliminate the need to have them line up. Is there something like a 6" wide maple (which is what my flooring is) threshold that is 3/4" thick so that it is flush with the floor and looks like a projection of the doorway jamb on the floor?

If such a piece is unavailable, I was thinking to makeshift my own out of 3 strips of hardwood where the one in the center would be whole (tongue and groove), and the two facing out would have the tongue and the groove respectively ripped off so as to join the center piece but be square at the edges where they would be meeting rows of regular hardwood on either end.
 

Attachments

·
Tileguy
Joined
·
6,050 Posts
Have you started installing in these rooms already? I know you started the other day, but not sure if these are two other rooms.

Jaz
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
There is a couple of different ways to do this. One way to do it would be to snap a line through the doorway and put a sacrificial board down on that line and start in the middle of the doorway and work backwards on those rows. That's if u r glueing them. If nailing u have to still snap a line through the doorway and start on the back walls but figure your layout so they will meet on that line. One rooms back wall to the line won't be the same as the other room to the line. So u will have to rip a board down so that when u run both rooms they will meet at that line u snapped through the door way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,316 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
One way to do it would be to snap a line through the doorway and put a sacrificial board down on that line and start in the middle of the doorway and work backwards on those rows. That's if u r glueing them.
I am really trying not to do this, I would much rather improvise a threshold to delimit the two areas.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
amakarevic said:
I am really trying not to do this, I would much rather improvise a threshold to delimit the two areas.
Usually the only time I ever see it is when there is a change in direction of the planks. Not saying it won't look good I'm sure it will.
 

·
Retired Moderator
Joined
·
25,768 Posts
Time for more splines----when you reach the door--send the wood into the next room--then add a spline and reverse directions--filling in the missing area.

It would have been ideal to start in the doorway and head in both directions--but still--this will work fine----
 

·
Tileguy
Joined
·
6,050 Posts
Do exactly what Mike said. Be sure to install some supporting furring strips to keep the first few rows of flooring from moving in room #2. :thumbsup:

Smyers, Unless I'm misunderstanding what you're proposing that will not work out. Are you suggesting, Snap a line in the doorway, then go north to that wall, then start at the south wall and finish at the extended line back in the doorway?

How is that gonna work?

Jaz
 
  • Like
Reactions: amakarevic

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
JazMan said:
Do exactly what Mike said. Be sure to install some supporting furring strips to keep the first few rows of flooring from moving in room #2. :thumbsup: Smyers, Unless I'm misunderstanding what you're proposing that will not work out. Are you suggesting, Snap a line in the doorway, then go north to that wall, then start at the south wall and finish at the extended line back in the doorway? How is that gonna work? Jaz
No I was not proposing that. In so many words it is exactly what oh' mike is saying to do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Another option would be a "T" Moulding. You can get T molding from any local home depot or lowes. Also any flooring store should carry it. Tried to post a link to a picture from home depot but I haven't posted enough to earn that privilege yet lol. Just google maple t molding and it pops right up. Good Luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
I had a similar problem in my 112 year old house. I snapped a line from one room to the other through the doorway. I screwed down a board made of trim. Groove against the sacrificial board, worked my way out towards the wall in BOTH rooms. when done, I removed the trim board, and used splines to reverse the direction, and nailed from the center of the doorway outwards in both rooms.

Worked very well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,316 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
except that, instead of using a "sacrificial board", a very straight 2x4 should do fine. at least that's what i used as a rule for my first row against the wall.
 

·
Tileguy
Joined
·
6,050 Posts
amekarevic said:
instead of using a "sacrificial board", a very straight 2x4 should do fine. at least that's what i used as a rule for my first row against the wall.
Well, no, the 2x4 is too thick and it wouldn't work in the field. The shoe wouldn't be flat.

fotoburger said:
I had a similar problem in my 112 year old house. I snapped a line from one room to the other through the doorway. I screwed down a board made of trim. Groove against the sacrificial board, worked my way out towards the wall in BOTH rooms. when done, I removed the trim board, and used splines to reverse the direction, and nailed from the center of the doorway outwards in both rooms.
Yes, right. That's what several of us have suggested.:thumbsup:

Jaz
 

·
Tileguy
Joined
·
6,050 Posts
OH? You're saying as a guide to draw a line?

Jaz
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
I never found 2x4 straight enough for that purpose, but trim is thin enough to bend to the cchalk line. I used screws rather than nails for ease of removal.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top