[windowguy]

I have a 3 gang new work box that houses 2 switches and one outlet. I want to replace the standard outlet with a USB enabled outlet. Those USB outlets are much "deeper" than a traditional outlet. Plus I have to add pigtails. As good as I try to fold the wires in there it is REALLY tight screwing the new outlet into the gang box (more wires plus deeper receptacle).

If I was to replace the box with a deeper box how do I get a new work gang box out without tearing up the walls? How much of "snug" is TOO snug when pushing receptacles back into the box?

 

[samjg1]

If I was to replace the box with a deeper box how do I get a new work gang box out without tearing up the walls? How much of "snug" is TOO snug when pushing receptacles back into the box?

There are a few instructional videos on YouTube as far as taking out the old box. Here's one:

Rather than using the blue old work box, I'd use one of these:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Madison-...c-Adjustable-Depth-Device-Box-MSB22/203343418

It mounts directly to the stud rather than just being held in place by the sheetrock tabs.

 

[hueco]

I wonder how much depth is available. If it is a standard wall, a box extender from the HD might serve. I use a sawzall to cut the nails on an existing box.

But, be aware, the code limits the number of wires and devices (in a box) based on the volume of the box. Sounds like the one you're working with is pretty crowded.

Most boxes are meant to fit the four inch space of a stud wall. Extender might be the best bet.

 

[Jim Port]

Have you loked at just rearranging the wiring so it is behind the switches instead of the receptacle?

 

[windowguy]

hmmm...I didn't think about rearranging the other receptacles.. I will open everything up tonight and see if I can't get the pigtail connections to fit behind the switches instead of "smushing" behind the outlet.

 

[windowguy]

I don't understand the extender idea. I need more space going INTO the wall, more space going deeper, not coming forward. The wall surface is staying the same depth.

 

[tribe_fan]

I'm not a pro, and I won't go into box fill calculations, but I have found that the push in wire connectors save space -make the ground and neutral connections and push them behind the switches like Jim Port stated.