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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How do you go about framing a wall so when its drywalled it has very few bumps in it or differences in height?

I know when you pick boards you are suppose to find the ones with the least twist and straight as you can on the front edge and side edge so you don't have bulges in you walls... then when you put the studs up you put the crowns all going one way... but even with this, I seem to have problems with drywall having some valleys or high spots in it... not major, say like an 1/8th an inch at most, but when you put stained trim on it stands out as a gap...

any tips, suggestions, or articles I can read to try to improve my skill?

also does putting construction adhesive on the studs before drywalling help any with the bumps to flatten out the low spots or anything? thanks
 

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A nail driven into the end(corner)stud of each wall. String line held out the thickness of block you'll use to gauge with, run across the middle of the wall. Depending on whether the stud needs to be pulled or pushed,make a saw cut maybe a 1/4 way through the stud.
Put a shim in the saw cut held in with an 8 penny nail. If it couldn't be straightened enough that way, we'd replace the stud.

That's how we did it anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A nail driven into the end(corner)stud of each wall. String line held out the thickness of block you'll use to gauge with, run across the middle of the wall. Depending on whether the stud needs to be pulled or pushed,make a saw cut maybe a 1/4 way through the stud.
Put a shim in the saw cut held in with an 8 penny nail. If it couldn't be straightened enough that way, we'd replace the stud.

That's how we did it anyway.
well the wall im going to make isn't built yet, I'm just looking for tips to get it as straight as possible while its being framed, the other walls are 100% done
 

· Framing Contractor
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Do everything that you said, and make sure to snap a line at the floor and the ceiling. If the wall is straight to the line, the only other thing you will deal with is the crowns. Another option would be to use metal studs. No crowns, twists, splits, etc to ever deal with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do everything that you said, and make sure to snap a line at the floor and the ceiling. If the wall is straight to the line, the only other thing you will deal with is the crowns. Another option would be to use metal studs. No crowns, twists, splits, etc to ever deal with.
metal isn't a go for me, I don't like working with it... sure its faster and lighter... but I want to stick with wood for this :)

I guess my big thing is how to deal with crowns.... should they face out or in if its an exterior wall? does it really matter as long as they are all going the same way?
 

· Framing Contractor
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As long as they all go the same way it doesn't matter. If you are really wanting to keep it nice, try this. Number every perfect stud a #1. Number all the decent ones a #2. Number all the other usable crowns as a #3. Now use the #1's at the ends, and make sure you never have a #1 next to a #3. This will make everything gradual. I have never done this, but someone mentioned it once. For only one wall it wouldn't take that long I guess.
 

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I think your over thinking this a bit Blue. Pick out some studs and build the wall. You can check the wall with a straight edge, Tizzer gave you one method of straightening studs. The sheetrock will float over minor imperfections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think your over thinking this a bit Blue. Pick out some studs and build the wall. You can check the wall with a straight edge, Tizzer gave you one method of straightening studs. The sheetrock will float over minor imperfections.
I guess thats what happens when you want to make sure you are doing stuff right and trying to be doing if perfectly, I know the pros cant even be perfect, just wondering how they do it :)
 

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As long as they all go the same way it doesn't matter.
I'm afraid I have to disagree on this one. Your stud crowns on exterior walls should face out and on interior walls, they should face away from the kitchen.

The reason is for setting wall cabinets. If the stud is crowned away from the cabinet, you should only have to shim one side (usually the bottom). However, if the studs are crowned in to the cabinets, you end up with a tall wall cabinet that "rocks" on the crown. In the end you have to shim it top and bottom to get it plumb.

To check your walls before drywall. Walk the length of the wall with a 6 or 8' level and, holding it horizontally, try to get it to "rock" on each stud. If it rocks badly, mark the stud for repair.
 

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I used drywall shims with good results. They are 1.5" x 46" cardboards, about 1/10" in thickness. They can be easily cut with a pair of scissors. I used a 8ft level to check the studs and stapled the shims onto the studs to get everything lined up.
 

· Framing Contractor
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I'm afraid I have to disagree on this one. Your stud crowns on exterior walls should face out and on interior walls, they should face away from the kitchen.

The reason is for setting wall cabinets. If the stud is crowned away from the cabinet, you should only have to shim one side (usually the bottom). However, if the studs are crowned in to the cabinets, you end up with a tall wall cabinet that "rocks" on the crown. In the end you have to shim it top and bottom to get it plumb.

To check your walls before drywall. Walk the length of the wall with a 6 or 8' level and, holding it horizontally, try to get it to "rock" on each stud. If it rocks badly, mark the stud for repair.
I agree with you on the kitchen. He never said he would put cabinets against it. The only reason we put the crowns out on exterior walls, is so that the wall studs don't rock while we are building the wall.
 
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