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Discussion Starter #1
I am residing my house and came upon some terimite damage. It looks like very old damage. I can see that some of the studs need to be replaced but how would I replace the top plate - can I just support the inside walls. What about the partial damage to the 2 X 10. The damage is in the basement which is accessible. See the pictures -
 

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Probe the damaged areas ( I like old screw driver, ice pick, and hammer.)

The answers will become clear.. Just because it looks bad does not mean it is to weak to do the job you need it to do. You might be able to block in areas and add supports.

You can clean out the paper thin stuff to get a better look.
 

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I know in picture 3 that the horizontal 2X4's are toast. So if the 2X10 is not damaged all the way through then there is nothing I need to do? is there anything I can fill it with?
 

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Build a temporary wall in the basement under the floor joists that sit on the plate. hold the wall back about 1 foot. because you will be working from the outside on this repair. once your wall is built ( I usually cut my studs for the support wall 3/8-1/2" longer and bang them in with a sledgehammer to make them straight. ) this will take some of the pressure of the wall below.
Then remove the damaged studs and top plate, keeping in mind not to have the new plates but to the old. have them lap over the old about 2 ft.
I like to use LVL's for my outside box because its already at the dimension of the existing piece that's being replaced, If not I rip it down to the proper size. no shrinking. You could use green lumber but I feel you would have to rip it which will create a problem latter on down the road when it shrinks. or install it green which in most cases it will be over sized leaving a hump on the outside wall until it shrinks to its natural state.
This is an easy repair because the siding is already removed.
OH buy the way I would not reinstall l vinyl siding over that foil board.
You also need to make sure you solved the problem with the termites, your sill plates are ground level which makes this a bad condition, Use ACQ FOR YOUR BOTTOM PLATES. GOOD LUCK Bob.
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The extent of the damage is really an eyes on call..
Know that most codes allow notch or hole 25% of dementional lumber size before additional support is required.

Also will you need surface to secure new siding? Plan it through.

Think about resale... and question marks visual damage generate.

Block in and bondo/ steel angle iron / all kinds of ways to get the job done.

The trick is to not make more work than you need and get the results you want with out going broke.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks. I will be removing the foil and replacing it with osb and covering it with Tyvec. i am installing hardiplank.
 

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Sounds like a good plan..

You must be in south GA... that looked like FL termite leavens...

hope your project goes well
 

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Fill it with PC7 2 part epoxy

>> is there anything I can fill it with? <<

After cleaning out the scraps of wood and, it looks like minimal damage. Fill it with PC7 2 part epoxy. More expensive than Bondo but, you get what you pay for.

PC7 is similar to a product in England being used to restore rotted timbers in ancient/historical structures. A timber form is created, rebar added and a epoxy resin is poured into the form/mold.
 

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I agree that there are many repair products out there. And by all means not to disrespect the other posters, Being the type of contractor that i am and never taking a band aid approach on structure. You have a wall supporting a floor load and a roof load above. I would replace what has to be replaced with the same. And as far as the OSB you might rethink that idea At grade level. because the sheathing is to close to grade. it could wick water and you will have the same problem drawing the insects back to the moisture.
Keep us posted BOB
 

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never taking a band aid approach on structure.
Good advice there!:thumbsup:

As a retired forensics investigator (like on CSI), those are great photos!
 

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I agree that there are many repair products out there. And by all means not to disrespect the other posters, Being the type of contractor that i am and never taking a band aid approach on structure. You have a wall supporting a floor load and a roof load above.
Ditto. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So what should I use close to the ground instead of OSB? Now is the time for me to do this... I am replacing the studs with treated lumber. I had some in my garage that is nice and dry ( I don't have to worry about shrinkage).
 

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So what should I use close to the ground instead of OSB? Now is the time for me to do this... I am replacing the studs with treated lumber. I had some in my garage that is nice and dry ( I don't have to worry about shrinkage).
I would use a fir or pine sheathing and pick up some coil stock and make a 1" 90 degree bend under the sill and have the rest come up the sheathing at least 8"-10" then cover with Ice & water shield. It looks to me that the sheathing is right at the top of your walk way- patio I would be concerned about a driving rain hitting up against the house and the water splashing its way up the wall sheathing. This way you will be pretty much protected.
As far as your repair it looks to be fairly easy, just watch out for the AC Line set in the wall and your waste line. you don't want to damage them.
Good Luck BOB
 
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