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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have some 2 screw drawer pulls and have been using a jig where the center line and mounting screw hole spacing is preset before drilling the drawer fronts. It appears I allowed the jig to move enough when drilling a set of holes to prevent the machine screws from aligning to start into the threads on the mounting side of the pull. It isn't off too much but I do not want to create a situation where there is a gap showing outside of the drawer pull relief. Naturally I can start one screw which then prevents alignment of the other. Any way to safely increase the size of the hole on the side that will not line up but still keep it covered by the pull relief?

Thanks
 

· retired framer
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I might carefully measure center to center the pull hole spacing and then determine if a 1/4" dowel would be hidden if one was used buy precisely boring a hole with a brad point bit to glue the dowel in.
You can't use a brad point to re drill a hole, the point need to center in wood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So after reading all of the informative replies to my problem, my wife suggested trying a different pull since she read others had posted there was some variability in the pull length themselves. While i looked on this as being a long shot I did as she suggested and the different pull aligned perfectly. Maybe not saying too much of the pull's quality but also perhaps this happens due to mass production. Glad it solved my issue and hope to figure out how to anchor my jig so it doesn't shift when I drill my remaining pulls which are many.

Thanks for all who offered suggestions.
 

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Glad it solved my issue and hope to figure out how to anchor my jig so it doesn't shift when I drill my remaining pulls which are many.

Thanks for all who offered suggestions.
Maybe a Quick Clamp or 2 would be beneficial.


These may be the only real collection I have but over about a 10 year period I collected the original QG clamps with the collection of 20 plus, if the boys would return the ones they borrowed, having clamps from 6"- 58". As can be seen the size most often used is a size about like you may need. They are my 3rd , 4th , and sometimes my 5th hand. In the process of building this box from 50 year old western red cedar fence 1x12's, I discovered the clamps are real handy for locating a straight board so the 4 butt hinges get perfectly aligned.
 

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· retired framer
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72,392 Posts
Maybe a Quick Clamp or 2 would be beneficial.


These may be the only real collection I have but over about a 10 year period I collected the original QG clamps with the collection of 20 plus, if the boys would return the ones they borrowed, having clamps from 6"- 58". As can be seen the size most often used is a size about like you may need. They are my 3rd , 4th , and sometimes my 5th hand. In the process of building this box from 50 year old western red cedar fence 1x12's, I discovered the clamps are real handy for locating a straight board so the 4 butt hinges get perfectly aligned.
There is a trick for that, no clamps.

With out the lid fold the hinge over the top of the box and pre drill little holes for the screws.
We would get order for 10 or 20 boxes at a time so we would do up a drilling jig so they were all right and all the same. even if the next batch wasn't for a year, they would be the same.
 
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