If im understanding you correctly, caulk back of vanity or shim bottom front then install trim board or quarter round around bottom of cabinet?
How to fix gap behind vanity due to Uneven Wall
Hello, new to the forum and relatively new to DIY work but jumping in turning a former closet into a bathroom. All has gone surprising well so far but am about to install a vanity and ran into a problem: When flush with the wall at the bottom, the top of the vanity has a gap about 1/2 inch from the wall. I think the floor is slightly unlevel but holding a level to the wall it seems to tilt back a fair amount so I am blaming it mostly on the wall.
The sink/ top of the vanity only overhangs very slightly on each edge and can't be pushed back far enough to close the gap without leaving a gap in the front.
Not sure if I explained that well but will try to add a picture later.
Here are options I could think of...appreciate any advice!
1. Shim at the floor in the front. This would be a pretty decent adjustment and visible from the front, which I don't like. Can't easily cover it up with a shoe or anything because it's more like feet at the front than just a rectangular base.
2. Tear out the entire wall (about 6 feet across) and shim the studs then rehang dry wall that is level. Seems like a lot of work and I have only patched drywall before...
3. Sand down the bottom of the vanity in the back so that it slopes backwards to meet the wall better
4. Leave an awkward 1/3 inch gap behind the vanity (that has a built in backsplash part)- this looks pretty bad in my opinion.
Please help!
The sink/ top of the vanity only overhangs very slightly on each edge and can't be pushed back far enough to close the gap without leaving a gap in the front.
Not sure if I explained that well but will try to add a picture later.
Here are options I could think of...appreciate any advice!
1. Shim at the floor in the front. This would be a pretty decent adjustment and visible from the front, which I don't like. Can't easily cover it up with a shoe or anything because it's more like feet at the front than just a rectangular base.
2. Tear out the entire wall (about 6 feet across) and shim the studs then rehang dry wall that is level. Seems like a lot of work and I have only patched drywall before...
3. Sand down the bottom of the vanity in the back so that it slopes backwards to meet the wall better
4. Leave an awkward 1/3 inch gap behind the vanity (that has a built in backsplash part)- this looks pretty bad in my opinion.
Please help!
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
I think you understand the problem-
As is it's too wide to caulk at the top, I think I could shim the bottom front but would have to be pretty aggressive with it and probably past the point of level (i.e. the vanity would be tilting back quite a bit to meet the wall.
my main issue with that fix is that the vanity has front legs that don't really lend themselves to trim/quarter round.
Trying to post a link/picture, bear with me
As is it's too wide to caulk at the top, I think I could shim the bottom front but would have to be pretty aggressive with it and probably past the point of level (i.e. the vanity would be tilting back quite a bit to meet the wall.
my main issue with that fix is that the vanity has front legs that don't really lend themselves to trim/quarter round.
Trying to post a link/picture, bear with me
Okay I get it now.. but all my ideas require sheetrock removal, mudding several times were it meets the wall or trying to trim out the gap on the back splash.. so no good options.
Option 3 is your best option.
Shimming the studs would also be an option, but a lot of work.
Shimming the studs would also be an option, but a lot of work.
I think one the things you want to do is ensure that the vanity top stays level so it seems that your option 3 is the best bet. With the bottom of the vanity up against the wall (and vanity level), the gap at the top will be the measurement as the amount you have to remove at the bottom. It's difficult to sand a straight line so if possible I would use a saw along a guide line you have drawn. If you must sand and it ends up a little wavy you could always cover it with a bit of trim.
I see 3 choices with out making big modifications .
1. shimming the granite top since is covered by the drawer you can lift up to 1/4" to 3/8" and caulked the gap after you raise the top
2. Get adjustable screwable legs you gan get that at a hardware store make sure they match your cabinet color and you will drill a small hole at bottom of the front legs
3. A 1/2" of trim strip to cover the gap instead this choice is the most immediate to consider.
Home Improvement Consultant
MD Contractor Lic. MHIC #108256
Juan C Reyes
1. shimming the granite top since is covered by the drawer you can lift up to 1/4" to 3/8" and caulked the gap after you raise the top
2. Get adjustable screwable legs you gan get that at a hardware store make sure they match your cabinet color and you will drill a small hole at bottom of the front legs
3. A 1/2" of trim strip to cover the gap instead this choice is the most immediate to consider.
Home Improvement Consultant
MD Contractor Lic. MHIC #108256
Juan C Reyes
I have done similar adjustments using leg levelers. You drill a hole in the bottom of the front two legs, insert the levelers, and then screw them in or out until you get to meeting the back wall. That may make your top out of level which you would fix using shims and caulk under the top to raise the low side of the top.
Sent from my LG-D415 using Tapatalk
Sent from my LG-D415 using Tapatalk
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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