[gloriousglenn]

Hi all,

So we bought one of these prefab cribs that converts into a bed from Toys R Us. All went well until it was pulled out today and one of the joints (where the runner of the base joins the footboard) pull away from each other.

I'm looking to see what the best fix would be? Is there anything that would be strong enough to fill in the damage and re-screw the holes? Or would I be better cutting it out someway and filling it?

I'm sure you're all familiar with the way these prefab joints are put together, but I added some photos anyway!

Merry Christmas, and thanks for reading!
Glenn

 

[chandler48]

I would opt to pull the existing bolt out, drill through the headboard and use a black carriage bolt, washer and nut facing inward in both holes. Not the most aesthetic fix, but who'd be looking?

 

[surferdude2]

Or, if looks are important, you could drill some new holes in the steel mounting flange and lag bolt it to the foot board. Predrill blind holes to match in the foot board to avoid splitting and select an appropriate length lag bolt. I suspect you have 1-1/2" of wood 1" lag bolts might be a good choice. Get 4 of those in there spaced properly and it'll hold better than the original method.

SD2

 

[gloriousglenn]

Not the most aesthetic fix, but who'd be looking?

It's my 7-year-old daughter's room and unfortunately, it's a corner that is not hidden by being against a wall and isn't even the corner along the wall, it's in the centre of the room. To prevent future earache from the said daughter I would be better off going with something more aesthetically pleasing! It would have been the easiest fix if it was at the headboard end though...thanks.

 

[gloriousglenn]

Or, if looks are important, you could drill some new holes in the steel mounting flange and lag bolt it to the foot board. Predrill blind holes to match in the foot board to avoid splitting and select an appropriate length lag bolt. I suspect you have 1-1/2" of wood 1" lag bolts might be a good choice. Get 4 of those in there spaced properly and it'll hold better than the original method.
SD2

This sounds promising. I may have to fill the current holes with epoxy though.

I fact, if I filled it with epoxy I wouldn't need to drill new holes into the mounting bracket either!

Thanks

 

[SPS-1]

+1 on through bolts and nuts/washers.

If you can't find a bolt head that pleases you, you can put a cover over the exposed bolt head. Below are a couple of cover styles available from Lee Valley.

 

[Nealtw]

A sleeve nut on the outside to fit that bolt would be best.

 

[DexterII]

I may have to fill the current holes with epoxy though.

Whatever way you go, I would definitely fill the holes first, but not with epoxy. I would drill and dowel them. I usually get them at the lumber yard or wood working store, but if you don't have one of those close by you might find them at your local hardware or big box. Otherwise you could use regular dowel and flute them with a hacksaw blade. And Tite Bond II.

 

[chandler48]

IMO, anything less than through bolting will fail. All that will be seen is the carriage bolt heads, and if painted black will be innocuous and they can be covered for the prurient interests of daughters.

 

[drtbk4ever]

I like the sleeve nut idea. Have used that in a few situations.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[surferdude2]

they can be covered for the prurient interests of daughters.

Since you used the word prurient, I think there's some humor in there. I will restrain myself from specific mention as to what is exposed on the other end of the carriage bolts. :vs_laugh:

 

[ChuckF.]

Difficult but most true to the original design: there's plenty of room on that flange for two new holes. Drill them and mark the location on the board, and drill the PROPER size hole to rethread in those threaded inserts. I would drill one new one on top and to the right, and the second also to the right but a little above the bottom one.

 

[lenaitch]

I vote for the carriage bolt or sleeve nut solutions; anything that holds from both sides.


Is the footboard symetrical? If so, you could flip it around so the damaged side faces inward and is no longer readily visible. Alternatively, you could use a piece of 1/4" poplar or similar that is large enough to cover the damaged area. Of course you would have to do one on both sides. Matching stain might be a trick.

 

[huesmann]

I think the damaged side already faces inside—you can see holes in the other post.

How about:
Glue those threaded inserts back in place, so they're flush with the surface.
Get a rectangular plate about the same size as the flange. Drill holes in the plate for the bolts, big enough so they pass through, but not for the inserts to pull through.
Drill holes in the plate for 4 screws into good parts of the wood.
Screw the plate to the post.
Bolt the frame to the headboard.

 

[lenaitch]

I think the damaged side already faces inside—you can see holes in the other post.

That makes sense now that I think about it.

 

[sestivers]

I think Larry's suggestion to use black or bronze carriage bolts would turn out great. It would look upscale-industrial, like something from Restoration Hardware. Just find the right buzzwords your daughter thinks are cool and make sure to do both sides the same.

 

[DexterII]

I would use a through bolt, maybe paint the head if I couldn't find a decorative cover for it, or maybe just recess it so the head was flush with the surface of the frame, or would use a sleeve nut as Neal posted. Maybe it's just me, but I personally would not use a carriage bolt. Maybe, if you carefully marked square part under the head and precut it with an Exacto blade, but otherwise I would be concerned that the wood would splinter when the carriage bolt was tightened and drawn in, and if it did splinter it could most likely end up looking worse than an exposed bolt head.

 

[de-nagorg]

I would use a through bolt, maybe paint the head if I couldn't find a decorative cover for it, or maybe just recess it so the head was flush with the surface of the frame, or would use a sleeve nut as Neal posted. Maybe it's just me, but I personally would not use a carriage bolt. Maybe, if you carefully marked square part under the head and precut it with an Exacto blade, but otherwise I would be concerned that the wood would splinter when the carriage bolt was tightened and drawn in, and if it did splinter it could most likely end up looking worse than an exposed bolt head.

With carriage bolts, you would drill the outer part of the hole in two sized stages, the first hole allows the square part to sink into the drill hole, without splitting the wood, the second bore is large enough to allow the head to recess into the post, just enough that you can glue a wood plug, into the hole to cover the bolt head.

Plugs are sold in the Box store, in the fasteners aisle.

Do both sides and it looks professional.

I'm betting the child jumped one too many times on this bed, and tells a different story as to how it broke, having experience with a few kids in my time.:vs_laugh:


ED

 

[Janefromherz]

You said you purchased the bed at Toys are us. Have you contacted the store for replacemenet parts? Possibly if it came in the condition you described it may be the manufacturers fault and the parts would be replaced.:smile:

 

[jeffnc]

IMO, anything less than through bolting will fail. All that will be seen is the carriage bolt heads, and if painted black will be innocuous and they can be covered for the prurient interests of daughters.

Just do the same thing on both sides and it will look like it's supposed to be like that.