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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think i may have messed up here but hoping someone can help with a solution. I directed my drywall guys end flush at the end of the wall where my shower hadn't been boarded yet. Now I'm left with the pictured scenario where my backer board overlaps the drywall at the corner. I will have to use a schluter trim to end my tile as it does not have bull nose available. How will I cover up the edge of the backer board?

Is joint compound an option if I cut it back a bit? I'm not sure how well it would adhere to the backer board or if it's just going to crack without a tape joint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wouldn't that tile have to be specifically available for the style I have? Yeah, that window was/is a challenge 😅. But it's gonna work out I think
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Wouldn't that tile have to be specifically available for the style I have? Yeah, that window was/is a challenge 😅. But it's gonna work out I think
Even if this type of tile was available, I will not be tiling the face of the wall. Any other ideas out there? I've also read about installing a corner bead. Would that push out the tile at the corner with the added thickness or will the thinset give me the wiggle room I need to keep the tiles flat?
 

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Even if this type of tile was available, I will not be tiling the face of the wall. Any other ideas out there? I've also read about installing a corner bead. Would that push out the tile at the corner with the added thickness or will the thinset give me the wiggle room I need to keep the tiles flat?
You could use a USG # 800 corner bead.
Font Book Rectangle Handwriting Paper
 

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Corrext, no tile there. I would have multiple edge trims and then an awkward way to stop it at the shower ceiling height.
You can make your own trim.
Select a profile you would like.
Draw the profile on a sheet paper.
Than cut in out on a piece of 18 ga. metal sheeting.
Build the template holder & bench rum your trim cut to fit just like if it was wood install.
Here is a sample for a guide.
Rectangle Parallel Font Slope Diagram
 

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Corrext, no tile there. I would have multiple edge trims and then an awkward way to stop it at the shower ceiling height.
So how much work do you want to do? The right thing to do would have been to wrap the drywall around a few inches the corner, so that the drywall on the shower side was flush or nearly so to the backer board. Then you could have terminated your tile on the drywall with your edge trims.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK to answer a few questions: Depends on what that work entails...the thought of redoing all of that drywall just to add 1/2" to overlap the hydroban board kind makes me want to cry like a baby lol.

The corner bead might work but still seems like it would make that corner protrude and look a little strange where the tile trim would butt up to it.

As for the other side of the shower where the 2x4's are stacked, that is the hinge side of my door opening which will swing out. I need to add drywall there and casing will go over it, possibly butting right up to the edge of the tile. But I will still plan on doing a trim (i.e. Schluter Jolly) to finish the tile first.

FYI my shower door will be set in about 4" from the finished tile edge.

I haven't used these before, but would a tear-away bead work here? Something that would allow me to mud right up to the tile trim.
 

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Even if this type of tile was available, I will not be tiling the face of the wall. Any other ideas out there? I've also read about installing a corner bead. Would that push out the tile at the corner with the added thickness or will the thinset give me the wiggle room I need to keep the tiles flat?
It will work fine, depending on what tile and pattern you have. For example, if you're installing an inlay that has a different thickness than your main tile, it can be an issue. But that's how I would do it anyway. I can't tell what you're building (shower, tub/shower?) but presumably you're going to either have glass or a shower curtain which means you're not going to have water spraying directly on that corner. Just get a plastic corner bead. The one shown below would be a good choice in your application. You can install it with thinset on the shower side, and with joint compound on the drywall side. You'll get a perfect edge that can be tiled over on the inside and painted over on the outside. Of course you will still use the Schluter edging profile on the inside, such as Rondec or Schiene. Since the edging has a hard metal bottom and your tile bottoms out on that, the corner bead is irrevant in terms of tile height at that particular point. Just make sure you get the correct size profile for your tile and it will fit perfectly. Now technically there will be a slight rise on that corner compared to farther inside, but unless you're using a tiny mosaic, that slight lift will not be noticeable and as you said thinset can be adjusted if there is a slight height difference between the inside tile edge and the outside corner tile edge.

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Do I just set the corner bead at the same time as the tile so that it's embedded in thinset at the same time as my tile and schluter trim? (speaking of the plastic kind of corner bead). Or do I fasten with screws first?

Thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It will work fine, depending on what tile and pattern you have. For example, if you're installing an inlay that has a different thickness than your main tile, it can be an issue. But that's how I would do it anyway. I can't tell what you're building (shower, tub/shower?) but presumably you're going to either have glass or a shower curtain which means you're not going to have water spraying directly on that corner. Just get a plastic corner bead. The one shown below would be a good choice in your application. You can install it with thinset on the shower side, and with joint compound on the drywall side. You'll get a perfect edge that can be tiled over on the inside and painted over on the outside. Of course you will still use the Schluter profile on the inside, such as Rondec or Schiene.

You answered my question at the same time I asked, thanks! This is a shower only, so you are right it should not see water at that spot. And no inlay is being used.
 

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There are no screws used at all with that type of corner bead. In fact maybe I'm wrong to even call it corner bead. It's really more like plastic corner joint tape. You can install it at the same time as tile, or you can do it ahead of time.
 
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