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Hi, so I am working on a basement wall and the double header that was used is short of the inside stud wall by roughly 1/4 inch. I don't have 1/4 inch drywall on hand, is that what is normally used to fill this space in? Could I used cedar shims?
 

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retired framer
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Hi, so I am working on a basement wall and the double header that was used is short of the inside stud wall by roughly 1/4 inch. I don't have 1/4 inch drywall on hand, is that what is normally used to fill this space in? Could I used cedar shims?
Anythings that fits, if your walls had been 2x6 the space would have been 2" deep and it is left for insulation.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Neil, I'll see if the shims work. If I used them I feel the support will be a bit flimsy.
 

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Thanks Neil, I'll see if the shims work. If I used them I feel the support will be a bit flimsy.
I see the have used plywood but not matched it to the studs. You do want to at least make the bottom match. Plywood, or rip the edge off a 2x4 if just for the bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I see the have used plywood but not matched it to the studs. You do want to at least make the bottom match. Plywood, or rip the edge off a 2x4 if just for the bottom.

I actually added that 3/4 plywood filler when I put in the new window and then caulked it with foam before seeing that it didn't match up with the stud. But its no big deal as I am going to go with drywall return with no case on the windows.
 

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I actually added that 3/4 plywood filler when I put in the new window and then caulked it with foam before seeing that it didn't match up with the stud. But its no big deal as I am going to go with drywall return with no case on the windows.
Well there's your problem.... You should have used 1/2" foam board and then 1/2" plywood on the exterior to bring it level. :devil3:

Or, next time you are at a big box store, check to see of there are any damage sheets of luan or 1/4" drywall and you can usually get them for a steal. And then you would have them around.

At Lowe's check around the panel saw for any left over cut sheets. At my local store they are free. I always check and I have gotten some real good product. One time, I got some 2x4 left over cuts of 1/2" oak furniture grade plywood.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I might have not explained that well. I put a new window in and it had a 3/4 space above so I added a 3/4 piece of plywood between the top of the window and the original header. The original header used is flush on the outside with the plywood but 1/4-1/2 short on the inside. So you are saying to add a 1/2 piece of foam in that gap I have, which makes sense. That would give the header just a bit of insulation right?



sheetrock.PNG
 

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I might have not explained that well. I put a new window in and it had a 3/4 space above so I added a 3/4 piece of plywood between the top of the window and the original header. The original header used is flush on the outside with the plywood but 1/4-1/2 short on the inside. So you are saying to add a 1/2 piece of foam in that gap I have, which makes sense. That would give the header just a bit of insulation right?



View attachment 572963
If the outside wall has a header over the window, you didn't need to add one to the inside wall.:wink2:
 

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I might have not explained that well. I put a new window in and it had a 3/4 space above so I added a 3/4 piece of plywood between the top of the window and the original header. The original header used is flush on the outside with the plywood but 1/4-1/2 short on the inside. So you are saying to add a 1/2 piece of foam in that gap I have, which makes sense. That would give the header just a bit of insulation right?



View attachment 572963
I thought you added it to the face of the header, not the underside. As Rosanne Rosannadanna used to say: "Never mind"
 

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This is one reason why headers should have 1/2" plywood sandwiched between the 2 by's.

Another reason is it provides more strength to the header.

Add a 1/2" of either plywood, drywall, etc..

Why didn't you install the ceiling first.?
 

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retired framer
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This is one reason why headers should have 1/2" plywood sandwiched between the 2 by's.

Another reason is it provides more strength to the header.

Add a 1/2" of either plywood, drywall, etc..

Why didn't you install the ceiling first.?
That is the inside wall of a basement, no need for a header.
Don't you usually have a sill under a header.
 

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That is the inside wall of a basement, no need for a header.
Don't you usually have a sill under a header.
I'm not there so I will not pretend to know the reason for the header.

I just know how headers are made.

Also if you look at the top plate you will see the 1/2" difference.

Unless there's going to be a drop ceiling, the ceiling should have been first.

 

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I'm not there so I will not pretend to know the reason for the header.

I just know how headers are made.

Also if you look at the top plate you will see the 1/2" difference.

Unless there's going to be a drop ceiling, the ceiling should have been first.

Yes there is some confusion there, if he stopped the top plate to make room for the header then a full filler would have been needed anyway. the bottom plywood was just measuring to the header instead of the stud.
 

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Yes there is some confusion there, if he stopped the top plate to make room for the header then a full filler would have been needed anyway. the bottom plywood was just measuring to the header instead of the stud.
Just my opinion.

Add a 1/2" piece of plywood to the header and drywall it.

Miller time.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ended up using some long cedar shims in a few spots, the space was a hair under 1/2". Then used metal bead for the corners and spackled and painted. Ideally when the header was built the builder would have used a thin piece of foam in-between, but this was made before energy codes.
 

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Ended up using some long cedar shims in a few spots, the space was a hair under 1/2". Then used metal bead for the corners and spackled and painted. Ideally when the header was built the builder would have used a thin piece of foam in-between, but this was made before energy codes.
Down there it is common to put the plywood between, foam wouldn't do it because it needs to nailed tight to make a beam. We never do it because often build with wet headers, they shrink and the plywood between makes the 2x split at the nails.
 
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