[ponch37300]

I'm installing a new tub and shower surround. I cout out the old plaster so I can get the new tub in. After I have the new tub and surround in I will need to patch in the drywall. What is the best way to do this? Just cut the patches as close as possible to the tub and then caulk between the drywall and tub surround?

 

[RegeSullivan]

If you add a few pictures of the work you did an a picture or reference of the tub and surround you will get more and much better responses.

 

[joecaption]

There needs to be a gap all around the enclosure for the caulking.
1/4" will work.

 

[ponch37300]

I cut out the old plaster and put in the new shower surround. Here is a picture of what I need to patch in.

 

[joecaption]

Hope you plan on removing the rest of the old plaster all the way to the ceiling, and that outside corner.
Your missing the nailers behind the wall to attach the enclosure to.
There should have been a diagram in the instructions where they need to go.

 

[Gymschu]

Like Joe said, at this point, remove the rest of that plaster to the ceiling and remove any left on that corner. It will be so much easier to cut drywall to fit with all the old out of the way. Cut the drywall to fit from ceiling to over the shower stall flange. Finish the joints with tape and mud........sand, prime, and repaint.

 

[joecaption]

Use galv. roofing nails not screws to attach the enclosure to the studs.
Leave a small gap around the enclosure where the drywall meets it so you can seal it with latex caulking.
DAP 230 works for me. No need to blob it on, only need enough to fill the gap.

 

[Nestor_Kelebay]

In a tub/shower area I would not use drywall. If you phone around to the home centers in your area, you should be able to find a product made by Georgia Pacific called "Dens-Shield" in a 30 inch wide by 5 foot long sheet. The places listed under Drywall & Plastering Equipment & Supplies in your yellow pages phone directory will sell Dens-Shield in a 4 foot by 8 foot sheet. I would use that instead of drywall.

Dens-Shield cuts just like drywall and you install it just like drywall. But, it has a treated gypsum core and a gray waterproof acrylic film on it that makes it suitable for wet areas like shower stalls and such. It's much easier to work with than cement board, and it's 1/2 inch thick just like cement board or drywall.

 

[Arlo]

You should have added extra 2x4's to have something solid to nail the flange to. You should remove the drywall or plaster all the way to the ceiling and you might be able to slip a piece of 2x4 through the opening to hold the flange.

When I put one of those surrounds in I shimmed the bare 2x4's with 1/4" wood (you could use 5 gallon paint stirrers) and installed PVC bead board to the ceiling. The shimming is to match the thickness of the surround's flange. The bead board is a brand called Veranda sold at Home Depot. The shower is now water proof to the ceiling. I and cut down the 8' Veranda and it made less waste than if I'd purchased the 3' version. I needed 2' pieces. I used a glue called Power Grab mold proof rather than Liquid Nails.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Plastpro...anel-Planking-Moulding-3-Piece-0102/202033620

 

[ponch37300]

In the picture I don't have the surround attached yet. Wanted to make sure I had a plan before attaching it for good.

 

[firehawkmph]

In the picture I don't have the surround attached yet. Wanted to make sure I had a plan before attaching it for good.

Noticed that. Like the others said, you do need the 2x4's in there to support the flange on the unit and to be able to properly fasten it. Take down the old plaster and do it right. It might not seem like it, but it will be easier in the long run. The units normally come with framing instructions which show exactly where they want the studding to go.
Mike Hawkins:smile:

 

[ponch37300]

I ended up cutting all the way up to the ceiling and taking the side walls out also. I thought I might get away with doing a easy patch but like you guys said it was easier and quicker to just rip out the walls all the way and do fresh drywall. I could fur the studs out flush with the lip of the surround and then drywall. Thanks for all the advice.