[marlaro]

Hi guys,

I'm looking for some guidance on how to connect a load bearing post and beam setup on the first floor from the basement.

So I am removing a load bearing wall adjacent to the kitchen to open it up and replacing it by a 7"x 12" Glulam beam and two 7"x7" Glulam posts. Now this would be straight forward in normal circumstances because the load bearing beam in the basement would usually be right beneath a load bearing wall on the first floor. But mine isn't, the load bearing beam in the basement is about 20" offset.

So my question is as follows, considering that I will be using two blackjack steel jack posts poured into 36"x30"x10" footings to support a load of 14500lbs per post, what would be the best way to connect the jack posts to the glulam posts?

bring the jack post up to the plywood subfloor underneath the glulam posts and screw through?

Thanks,

 

[Nealtw]

How big is the flange on the steel post?

 

[marlaro]

How big is the flange on the steel post?

the jack post flanges are 4.5" x 6"

I am also thinking about using T-Rex connectors at the top and bottom of the posts which would be 7"x7".

 

[Nealtw]

the jack post flanges are 4.5" x 6"

I am also thinking about using T-Rex connectors at the top and bottom of the posts which would be 7"x7".

We never work with steel posts so take it for what it is worth.
Usually the post above is above a wall or beam and we would fill that space under the sub floor with blocking at least as big as the post above.

Then the post above would be help in place with nails down from all directions. I think I might just bolt a couple layers if plywood to the top of steel post with flat elevator bolts so you can just nail down the upper post.

Will the upper post remain visible with a floor trim or boxed in.?
Will they be attached to a wall too?

 

[marlaro]

We never work with steel posts so take it for what it is worth.
Usually the post above is above a wall or beam and we would fill that space under the sub floor with blocking at least as big as the post above.

Then the post above would be help in place with nails down from all directions. I think I might just bolt a couple layers if plywood to the top of steel post with flat elevator bolts so you can just nail down the upper post.

Will the upper post remain visible with a floor trim or boxed in.?
Will they be attached to a wall too?

Hahaha, trust me, we wouldn't be having this conversation if the load bearing was properly aligned, and it was in the original plans but I guess something changed during construction and they decided to offset the wall by 20". Probably a good idea 52 years ago but here I am today dealing with the results, 3/4 inch sag in the floor over 2'. It's not the end of the world but if both walls were initially aligned there would be no problem.

Both the posts and beam will be exposed. One of the posts will be recessed in a wall and the beam will also be screwed into the second floor joists, the other post is in the middle of the room.

You mentioned blocking, maybe I can fill the space between the floor joist with glulamed 2x10, bring it flush with the joist and support with the jack post. then the glulam posts can be secured directly to the floor using a Trex bracket. this would also make it a lot easier a access the jack posts raising screw as it wouldn't be between two floor joists.

 

[Nealtw]

Hahaha, trust me, we wouldn't be having this conversation if the load bearing was properly aligned, and it was in the original plans but I guess something changed during construction and they decided to offset the wall by 20". Probably a good idea 52 years ago but here I am today dealing with the results, 3/4 inch sag in the floor over 2'. It's not the end of the world but if both walls were initially aligned there would be no problem.

Both the posts and beam will be exposed. One of the posts will be recessed in a wall and the beam will also be screwed into the second floor joists, the other post is in the middle of the room.

You mentioned blocking, maybe I can fill the space between the floor joist with glulamed 2x10, bring it flush with the joist and support with the jack post. then the glulam posts can be secured directly to the floor using a Trex bracket. this would also make it a lot easier a access the jack posts raising screw as it wouldn't be between two floor joists.

So you have a sag in the floor and 2 posts going to good footings. Why not a beam under the floor too and bring it back up first.

 

[marlaro]

So you have a sag in the floor and 2 posts going to good footings. Why not a beam under the floor too and bring it back up first.

I was thinking of taking the weight off the floor first by transferring it to the posts and correcting the joists individually as only a couple need to be raised and the floor only sags over a 48" span.

also there's not much room to beam because of existing ducting.

 

[Nealtw]

I was thinking of taking the weight off the floor first by transferring it to the posts and correcting the joists individually as only a couple need to be raised and the floor only sags over a 48" span.

also there's not much room to beam because of existing ducting.

My thinking was if you lock these posts in place you will not be moving the floor around the posts with out moving the ceiling above too.

 

[marlaro]

My thinking was if you lock these posts in place you will not be moving the floor around the posts with out moving the ceiling above too.

ill take some more precise measurements but as it stands, it seems that the ceiling has sagged as much as the floor.

 

[Nealtw]

ill take some more precise measurements but as it stands, it seems that the ceiling has sagged as much as the floor.

So you want to fix both at the same time or isolate the posts from the floor so you can do them separately and that can be done. :wink2:

 

[Nealtw]

You could cut a hole in the floor and block that up solid to support the floor and set the upper post directly on top of the lower post. And allow for future adjustment if needed.

That way you would have 2 separate levelling jobs and when you are happy with both you would just nail or screw thru the solid blocking to the upper post.

 

[marlaro]

You could cut a hole in the floor and block that up solid to support the floor and set the upper post directly on top of the lower post. And allow for future adjustment if needed.

That way you would have 2 separate levelling jobs and when you are happy with both you would just nail or screw thru the solid blocking to the upper post.

I like this idea,

So that way my posts and floor would be independent of each other and that will make getting everything level a lot easier.

 

[Nealtw]

I like this idea,

So that way my posts and floor would be independent of each other and that will make getting everything level a lot easier.

as long as the post doesn't land on a joist. :biggrin2: