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Discussion Starter #1
Good morning all,

I need some suggestions on a project that I've been working on. I'm closing off a quarter of my basement for a playroom for the rugrat. When we bought the house, one wall was already in place as a divider for the laundry area. I've already framed the second wall and run the electrical (wires only, nothing is hooked up). I also have painted the rafters white to brighten up the space. The wall I framed runs perpendicular to the joists, so I'm left with open cavities above the top plate of the wall. I'm looking for suggestions on how to close off that space. I do not want to install a ceiling of any sort. I don't need anything fancy and definitely need something inexpensive, but don't want it to look like junk. I debated stapling the rolled batt insulation with the paper backing. I think that'll look like junk. I've also though of running leftover drywall up there or cutting foam board insulation panels to fit and painting them. The new room is heated, but we left the cinder walls exposed, so there will be some temperature fluctuation. I mention this because it's not necessary that the solution be airtight. Although I wouldn't mind that.

Let the brainstorming begin.

Thank you in advance!
 

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Good morning all,

I need some suggestions on a project that I've been working on. I'm closing off a quarter of my basement for a playroom for the rugrat. When we bought the house, one wall was already in place as a divider for the laundry area. I've already framed the second wall and run the electrical (wires only, nothing is hooked up). I also have painted the rafters white to brighten up the space. The wall I framed runs perpendicular to the joists, so I'm left with open cavities above the top plate of the wall. I'm looking for suggestions on how to close off that space. I do not want to install a ceiling of any sort. I don't need anything fancy and definitely need something inexpensive, but don't want it to look like junk. I debated stapling the rolled batt insulation with the paper backing. I think that'll look like junk. I've also though of running leftover drywall up there or cutting foam board insulation panels to fit and painting them. The new room is heated, but we left the cinder walls exposed, so there will be some temperature fluctuation. I mention this because it's not necessary that the solution be airtight. Although I wouldn't mind that.

Let the brainstorming begin.

Thank you in advance!
Just put in blocking of the same size material as the joist. If you have a 2x10 joist spaced on 16" centers then use a 14.5" long piece of 2x10 and nail it in place.

If you don't have a solid joist then post a picture and I'm sure we can figure out the best way.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Tarheel, but I specifically stated that I did not want a ceiling installed. I've already taken the steps and money to paint the exposed joist ceiling.

Brock, not sure why I didnt' think of that. That's something to definitely consider. Thanks.

If you've got other ideas, I'd love to hear them!
 

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Install a wide board such as a 1x12 horizontally, against the wall, and on the underside of the joists, to act as a "partial ceiling" to hide the open spaces above the wall top plate.

Add insulation of any kind filling the spaces between the joists and above the board, optionally set back from the outer edge of the board.

(hindsight or eavesdroppers only) The entire "rafter" area will look more elegant with everything painted flat black instead of white.
 

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Thanks Tarheel, but I specifically stated that I did not want a ceiling installed. I've already taken the steps and money to paint the exposed joist ceiling.

Brock, not sure why I didnt' think of that. That's something to definitely consider. Thanks.

If you've got other ideas, I'd love to hear them!
Thats the beauty of this board!

If you can post a picture it would help.

What does your son/daughter like? Whatever you put up there you can paint animals on, or their initials, or things that will make them feel like its their space.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Picture coming in an hour or two.

AllanJ - Do you mean to install the 1x12 similar to my top plate and but it up against the top plate of the wall? Essentially creating a "shelf" in the joist cavities?
 

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I personally think wood blocking or drywall is going to be your best bet.

I think if you install blocking directly over that wall in the joist cavity you can remove the other blocking thats in place. Hopefully someone on here can verify that but it makes sense to me. If your sheer or torsional forces are greater than that I'm sure you'd have had big problems by now.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Nothing yet. I'm still debating.

Out of curiosity, why would the foam insulation be a fire hazard, but rolled insulation not be? I spoke to a few friends who have finished their basements (or parts of them) who painted foam board insulation and filled the area between the joists.
 

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Read what it says right on the panels there flamable and they give off toxic fumes as they melt.
Even even check the prices on foam?
You could buy two sheets of sheetrock for the price of one panel and be code compliant with sheetrock.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Sounds good. Thanks. I hadn't physically looked at them, just thought it was an idea. Now it's not an idea.
 

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You can use them you just have to cover them up with drywall. It will look the same as with wood blocking just more expensive.
 

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One easy way is to use 1/4" luan. Easy to cut and paint. You can even hot glue it and some behind as a support. Definitely use sheetrock edge channel.
Since it's a playroom, I would install protected lights, not a bare bulb, and in the joist cavity.
 

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No exposed; paper-faced insulation, foam board, ceiling joists (painted or not), need an egress window/door, electrical/finish room in basement permit, air supply to gas appliances -furnace, HW Tank, etc. Need to finish the drywall per code for fire safety, at least the joints/fasteners. Check with your local Fire Marshall/AHJ.

Gary
 

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Attach wooden cleats or furring as sheetrock nailers to the joists. Use screws, or I'd just use liquid nails or the like, holding in place with masking tape until the glue dries. Screw sheetrock to the nailers. Caulk around the edges.This assumes you don't care about the appearance on the other side.
 

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You cannot leave the wood framing exposed in case of fire. The joist cavities need covering by any of these choices: http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_7_sec002.htm

Because the joists are light-frame construction, they require covering, notice that beams/girders are heavy frame construction, and last longer in a fire (bottom of page); http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_sec005.htm?bu2=undefined

Notice the ceiling height requirements in the last link, that is to the finished ceiling:

"CEILING HEIGHT.
The clear vertical distance from the finished floor to the finished ceiling." from; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_2_sec002.htm

To add drywall between the joists would not be fire-safe or code acceptable leaving any of the joist exposed to the room. http://www.awc.org/pdf/WDF19-2_White.pdf Heavy timber joists are different because they have a much longer burn time for family/firemen to evacuate people before the ceiling/floor falls in. I hope you have the required egress window/door required for minimum light/ventilation/egress code requires for habitable space in a basement. Work with your local AHJ on this as it is life-threatening otherwise.

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Gary,

What do you suggest for closing off the joists from the rest of the basement? I'd rather know how to do it than how not to do it. I've got everything covered except how to close off the joists from the rest of the basement.

Are any of the suggestions that other users provided acceptable? Would blocking suffice? Would blocking plus sheetrock be the way to go? Could I install 2x2's vertically on each side of the joist to install sheetrock on top of?

Thanks,
Jason
 
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