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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The house was built in the 70s. One day the top stair broke from its stringer. We decided to remove all the carpet and have someone come and and repair. On the back side of the steps we notice that there is no middle stringer.
We bought all new treads and riser and the man that helped us repair said there was no space for a stringer to be added. Well now the steps are squeaking again and you can see them sliding back about 1/2inch from where they where tightly installed to the stringer.


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retired framer
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The house was built in the 70s. One day the top stair broke from its stringer. We decided to remove all the carpet and have someone come and and repair. On the back side of the steps we notice that there is no middle stringer.
We bought all new treads and riser and the man that helped us repair said there was no space for a stringer to be added. Well now the steps are squeaking again and you can see them sliding back about 1/2inch from where they where tightly installed to the stringer.


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What was removed, plywood and or?
What was used to replace it?

From the 70s 2 stringers would be common.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What was removed, plywood and or?
What was used to replace it?

From the 70s 2 stringers would be common.

All the treads and risers where removed Stringer look like it was in good shape still so he didn’t change out. When we removed the carpet it was plywood riser and 3/4 pine treads. Now we have all new risers in tread ( pine)


You can actually see a little movement when someone is walking on them.


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retired framer
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All the treads and risers where removed Stringer look like it was in good shape still so he didn’t change out. When we removed the carpet it was plywood riser and 3/4 pine treads. Now we have all new risers in tread ( pine)

You can actually see a little movement when someone is walking on them.


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Did he use any glue at all?
 

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retired framer
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Nope he took that wedge piece and screwed it as tight as he could against the 2x4s


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On the upside, there are fixable

The risers and tread should be held in place with wedges.
I would have screwed the riser to the tread with a screw ever 4 or 5 inches.

The 2x4 could be a 2x2 right at the front pre drilled for screws going into both the tread and riser with a good sub floor glue.

When we do a 2x2 under the front we make that a little short so if there is movement it does not squeak

A tapered drill bit is good for this work.

 

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retired framer
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So do you think where going to have to restart? Take them apart and add glue or do you think more screws on the back of the riser may do the trick?


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I wouldn't take them apart but there is much that can be done to make them at least better..

Have you some DIY skills we can build on or are you starting from scratch?
Do you have a list of tools, saws and the sort?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes I do have some skills. I’m a commercial/light industrial electrician. Meaning I’m usually dealing with steel and metal of some sorts. As far as woodwork I don’t have much skills. I helped frame up my basement and drywall...
I have basic hand tools no table saw.
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retired framer
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Thus is what it should look like, See the wedge behind the riser an under the treads.




The slots in your stringers look like there are straight cut when they should be tapered to match the wedge like this

So if they are straight cut you would need 2 wedges for each.


Cutting wedges would likely mean building a cutting jig for a table saw, if you had one.

Do you now anyone with a saw that you could lean on for help.
 

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retired framer
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I might know someone. Our stringers slot are tapered. Its right between the 2x and tread
But I see there’s not a wedge between the risers and the stringer

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You will have to figure out the exact angle of the taper so the new wedges fit properly for tight fit the whole way.



A cutting jig would be like this to cut blocks the right size to give you 2 wedges out of each.
 

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