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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm replacing my front porch. The floor joists (perpendicular to foundation wall) extend all the way out to the edge of the stone foundation with no rim joist. Some of the joist cavities are filled with stone/mortar, others with wood (yes I have bug, mice, bat and squirrel problems). The old porch was attached to a ledger that was just nailed to the ends of the joists. The old ledger was partially rotten, so I removed it. How do I attach a new ledger? Can I lag bolt it to the joist ends and the sill plate? I know this isn't a good idea, but what other options do I have?
 

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You don’t want to lag into the ends of the joist.

Can you post some pictures?
 

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Doesn’t that look just lovely.

It looks like to me the only purpose of the rock between the joist is to plug the hole.

I’d get rid of enough of the rock so you can block in between the joist, then continue the sheathing down to the bottom of the plate. Then you can lag a ledger to go through the sheathing into the blocks.

Be sure to get some tar paper or ice and water shield over the sheathing before you install the ledger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks. Lovely, I know. How should I attach the blocking so that it is strong enough to lag to? Also, do I really need to sheath it too?
 

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Yes, your set up perfectly to sheet over all of it. The sheathing is what will hold it all together and give it strength.

What is the decking going to be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
4 inch PT T&G. I've thought about Fir or So. Yellow Pine, but I thought PT might hold up better. How should I attach the blocking?
 

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Id use galvanized or deck screws. It would be easier than trying to hand nail the blocks.

Id also use 1 ¼ - 1 ½” screws on the sheathing unless you have nail guns.

If your using T&G for the top be sure to install flashing that goes up behind the siding and over the decking to keep the water away from the ledger so your not repeating this in a couple years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks! Does the flashing necessarily have to go over the flooring? Could a Z shaped flashing be used... under the siding but over the ledger?
 

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Z over the ledger is what you would typically do but when you said a T&G decking on the porch, I just didn’t want to see water collecting and standing in that corner.

Doing both would be better yet, as long as the wall side of the flashings go up behind the siding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The plan...
Remove the stone and mortar from the joist bays.
Screw (or nail?) in blocking.
Replace the bottom course of sheathing.
Apply Ice and Water shield.
Lag a 2x8 ledger to the sheathing and blocking.
Z-Flash behind siding and over ledger.
Hang porch joists from there.

After more thought... I'm starting to wonder if this process will provide a strong enough base to lag to. Can someone reassure me?
 

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The plan...
Remove the stone and mortar from the joist bays.
Screw (or nail?) in blocking.
Replace the bottom course of sheathing.
Apply Ice and Water shield.
Lag a 2x8 ledger to the sheathing and blocking.
Z-Flash behind siding and over ledger.
Hang porch joists from there.

After more thought... I'm starting to wonder if this process will provide a strong enough base to lag to. Can someone reassure me?
Sounds like a good plan to me. :thumbup:

Try to get the flashing behind the building paper of the siding.
 

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You can always block with 4x.

The point of the blocking in your case is so the load of the lags transfers to the blocks and down the plate and that wonderful foundation of yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
4x8s? Yikes! That could get costly and be no fun to cut. I'll stick with 2x.
Call me stupid... but how should I attach the blocking? Toe nail to joists? To Sill Plate? Both? And would you still suggest screws if I have a framing nailer?
 

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You can nail them, the only reason I suggested screws is because its sometimes easier to do your precision toe nailing/screwing done without knocking the blocks in to far or splitting them out.

I wouldn’t build a house with screws but sometimes on little stuff like your doing, it’s just cleaner.
 

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Doesn’t that look just lovely.

It looks like to me the only purpose of the rock between the joist is to plug the hole.

I’d get rid of enough of the rock so you can block in between the joist, then continue the sheathing down to the bottom of the plate. Then you can lag a ledger to go through the sheathing into the blocks.

Be sure to get some tar paper or ice and water shield over the sheathing before you install the ledger.
Agreed... you definitely want to make sure to get a watershield over the sheathing.
 

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I know this is an old thread, but I have a similar situation. My question is: is there a better way to attach the blocking to the floor joists? Is there a Simpson connector/bracket/fastener, that could be used that would provide more strength to the blocking and therefore a sturdier attachment point for the ledger?
 

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I know this is an old thread, but I have a similar situation. My question is: is there a better way to attach the blocking to the floor joists? Is there a Simpson connector/bracket/fastener, that could be used that would provide more strength to the blocking and therefore a sturdier attachment point for the ledger?
Post some pictures of what you have.
Do you have a roof over the deck?
Will the new deck be a step down from the inside?
 

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The existing deck is cantilevered from the 2nd story floor joists of the house, so there is no band joist. The cantilevers are actually sistered onto the floor joists of the house. I have already removed the decking and railing and I plan to cut off the cantilever joists flush with the wall, install new blocking between the joists and the wall plates, and install a ledger board to the blocking.. the old blocking that you can see in the picture on the left side is actually outside of the plane of the wall. So they will need to be taken out and replaced with blocking that sits on top of the wall plate. We are also replacing the siding on the house which will make it easy to properly install flashing for the new ledger.

The roof of the house overhangs the deck by about 2 ft. The step down from the house to the old deck was about 1/2 in, but I would like to make it 2 inches for the new deck, which I should be able to do since the ledger will be 2x10 and I plan to use 2x8 deck joists. I don't have to worry about snow piling up since I'm in an area in California where it never snows.

Thanks in advance for any guidance.
Sky Wood Motor vehicle Font Rectangle
 

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Yes . cut them flush with the plywood and new blocking flush with the plywood works
The blocking should be double thick under the sides of the door to support the king and jack studs for the door.
You should add some tie backs too.
Rectangle Wood Parallel Font Plan

If you don't have access from below you can add the inside part from outside and add the ready rod with a nut on both sides of the bracket and pre drill the block and ledger to fit over the rod.
The blocking will stop the deck from falling with the lag bolts
The tie back holds it in a quake.
 
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