How tight should toilet flange be?

Yes, dry fitting is restrictive and usually goes on about halfway. The glue process actually softens the plastic allowing the fitting to slip on completely.

Be sure the pipe is at or slightly below the needed height- determine this from the indent/hub of the flange. This is called the fitting make up
Also be sure the 90 below is well supported so it doesn't push down as you glue the flange on.
If the flange doesn't glue op good the first try- ABS is usually forgiving enough to pop it back off. But you got to do it quickly!

Yes, if necessary you can only glue the flange. But it will make it extremely difficult to slip on 100%. Both surfaces should be glued in order to soften each plastic surface. Your method will not soften the pipe surface.

You might consider exchanging the flange. You may get lucky and find one with slightly better tolerances in the dry fit.

If you can get 1" of the pipe into the hub when glued up- it won't fail. This means you need to shorten the pipe a tad.

I have been in your position before. I glue the hub, push it on and then quickly remove it.
Re-glue and repeat the process until it's on completely. Not a text book method, but sometimes you have to adapt and overcome. Keep some prying tools nearby

Drill right through the flange hole. You shouldn't have to, but you could always add washers on top

Daugela said:

So before I drill, I need to know what the alignment is for the bolts.

I will be setting my bolts 12.25" inches from the finished wall, but reference the metal ring, do the bolts attach at the very end (in the slot) or should I position the metal ring so the bolts will be in the middle of the grooved slot?

Hopefully that made sense...

Click to expand...

I like them about 1/2" from the closed end of the narrow slot