Need to clean out the rusty spots, ( I have never seen aluminum rust like that),
Then get a tube of PL Construction adhesive, and either cut a bunch of pop/beer cans for patching, or get a sheet of aluminum coil stock, or gutters from the BOX store, and glue your patches down with the PL.
Start saving your money for a continuous gutter guy to replace all of that at once.
I wouldn't use construction adhesive for that. You need a tube of roof mastic, a can of trowel grade roof cement, waterproofing tape, or conformable flashing, depending on how big the hole is. The roof mastic is good up to about a 1/4" wide by pretty much any length, or probably 1/2" diameter holes; for the roof cement, maybe 1/2" wide by any length, or a 3/4" hole. The tape might hold on an opening up to 3/4" wide, if you clean up where it has to stick really well. Anything larger, you're going to need the flashing tape; you'll need to clean the really well where the edges of the tape will be, so it has something solid to adhere to.
Or you could just do it right and replace that section of the gutter...
After cleaning a little rust off with a brush about as gentile as a feather duster, i wouldn't put any more effort or money into that other than what about 17 cents worth of duct tape would cover. Gently apply bottom side first then the interior side.
For any patching material that is going to go on over this hole, anything that's loose will have to come off. Anything, including rust, that doesn't come off easily, can stay. After cleaning it up, if the patching isn't going to extend beyond the rusty area all around, spraying with a rust reformer/converter paint is probably a good preparation step.
GeoSeal for gutters, caulk gun and AL flashing or scrap. After protecting anything below where a drip might land, cut a small tip on tube of sealant apply all along side of holes and the ends, press metal into place and weight it down with a brick or rock for at lest 24 hours.
Don't remove the lower protection until you are sure the GeoSeal has set.
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