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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 10" miter saw that I'll use for 2x?s and finish moulding. If I'm cutting a lot of 2x?s I'll switch to a coarser blade, when cutting finished moulding I'll switch to a higher tooth blade, 60t, both carbide, but there are times I'm cutting 2x? with my 60t.

I'm wondering would I get a better cut for moulding if I went to an 80t or a 60t steel blade? HD has a 200t OSB Plywood steel blade for $12!
 

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Same here, carbide tipped teeth and probably at least 80 on 10" blade (regular thickness, not thin kerf or such) for cutting molding. Freud is a good brand. Compare the carbide teeth sizes also. Cutting 2x lumber, a circular saw is almost a must. Not sure what you mean by steel. A steel teeth blades will not last very long and durable teeth (carbide) is also safer tool. I buy 100 or over (teeth number) steel blades for cutting vinyl siding with a circular saw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Same here, carbide tipped teeth and probably at least 80 on 10" blade (regular thickness, not thin kerf or such) for cutting molding. Freud is a good brand. Compare the carbide teeth sizes also. Cutting 2x lumber, a circular saw is almost a must. Not sure what you mean by steel. A steel teeth blades will not last very long and durable teeth (carbide) is also safer tool. I buy 100 or over (teeth number) steel blades for cutting vinyl siding with a circular saw.
80 teeth, good to know, Thanks.

I have a circular saw (3 bought at garage sales for $10-$15 each with different blades, I figured for that money, not worth my time changing, plus I have the blades from my table saw before I upgraded to a $10 10" portable Skil table saw, another find!)

I use the circular saw for quick cuts when I don't a precise exact length of a perfectly flat cut.

Steel blade, plain steel teeth without carbide teeth.

Thanks for the added info on the 100t for vinyl siding. Would the 200t blade work for that?
 

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I just bought 90t dewalt blade. Steel teeth and 6.5" for smaller cordless circular saw. I forget the number I used before. It looks ok. Before I installed it backwards and it worked as well. I think 200t would be closer to a hacksaw blade and certainly smoother cut but may burn the cut or get clogged. For vinyl cutting I use a big speed square or draw a square line and hand cut since square edge is not usually a concern. For vinyl you need a sacrificial base. I also used a long enough scrap and made a new exposed edge using a combo of aviation snip and razor.
 

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I use a 60t blade and it works fine. Being sharp is as important as how many teeth it has.
 
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I keep probably 30 ea. 12" and 30 ea 10" blades available sharpened. I have a retired machinist who provides my sharpening service. Blade quality is important, and so is the sharpening procedure. Mine vary from Dewalt, Diablo, Freud, and others, but sharp, they cut almost equally. He rolls the carbide tips in hot wax before returning them to me, so I won't cut my hands when installing them on the saw :eek: They are that sharp.
 

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Nobody here sharpens carbide blades any more. A friend down the road has a sharpening service and I asked him because I had a lot of dull blades. He said the diamond wheel to sharpen carbide is expensive and doesn’t last long, and blades have become cheaper so customers won’t pay much for sharpening. I tossed my old blades in my scrap heap.
 

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I just found the old blade. It is 6.5" and 140 teeth. I used it on regular circular saw. Sorry. I can't remember exactly but I think I bought the steel teeth blade because carbide teeth blade was cracking the vinyl or chattering too much, but it is possible I was using under 30t blade. 60t carbide teeth probably will work. Also set the saw table depth to the siding depth.
 
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